what do you want to see in a reel

[mikecc]

I have been asked from a reel company to ask you guys & gals what do you want to see in a fishing reel.

My suggestion was a full line up of spinners from 12 – 30 mono classes, But capable to withstand braid. Extra metal spool,
Metal Body with Instant anti reverse, BB Line Roller, long cast spool design , HD Gears with a screw in handle not a pass thru handle. Handle has to be solid with a metal collar not plastic machined if possible. Water Proof drag, NO fancy colors with flashy Gold or silver, just a plain powder coated or anodized body, reel has to be dunkable. And must cost under $175. preferably $130-$150

What do you people think.

[JohnR]

Precisely (and we'll field test it)

Dunkable: $150

Submersible and water proof: $200

Simple design, easy to maintain. Options for bailess, fewer moving parts. Relatively light.

[Slingah]

A-RIGHT!!!all the above sounds great....I cant see why we cant have that for around 200clams

[tattoobob]

If you could make a Van Staal for the 100 dollars more than a 704z
I would buy 10 of them. I do like the powder coated part, I don't like
my gear to stand out to crooks.

[Mark]

butter smooth, waterproof drag.

[Goose]

Marine grease fitting that is counter sunk and covered witha rubber cap.

[Pete_G]

I'm not a big fan of surf reels with a lot of bearings. Bearings fail; coated, sealed, or whatever else they like to claim. That will probably boggle the minds of most reel companies since they're big on lots of bearings. I guess if it's truly sealed it's OK if it has a lot of bearings. I really couldn't care less about how smooth a reel is though. Simplicity and function were and are the hallmarks of most of the great surf reels. Even a VS is relatively simple inside.

An inexpensive yet quality reel is probably a tough nut to crack. The market is known to be small, the Z's wouldn't be being phased out if it wasn't.

On a side note but very related to this is how many products on the market, imo, are built by companies who assume the product is being built for people who fish maybe once a week tops. I just watch certain items falter and fail SO fast and repetetively sometimes. In testing, whoever is building this reel should assume someone is hitting the water hard a minimum of several times a week over a 8 or 9 month season.

No matter what they do, this reel will be compared to VS and Penn, so they probably need to think about how they build it with that in mind.

[Slipknot]

If it has a bail, be absolutely sure that it can not possibly close on a cast. Too many reels have the ability to snap shut on a hard cast and that is no way acceptable. Plugs are way to valueable to lose due to a faulty bail.
Bailess option would be nice also for the medium to larger sizes.


30 lb mono Mike? on a spinning reel? I think that's too heavy for a spinner, too much line twist. 25 max. 20 is usually fine. If you need heavier than 25 then use conventional.

Like the others say, has to be able to get wet and be fine to fish with.

I realize a reel for skishing with, needs to be like a van stall or a saltiga but for the most part for about 150 bucks I just need it to be able to take a wave or get splashed and still work. Prices should be from about 100 for small reels up to about 150-160 for larger size.

Need a Large roller bearing to be able to handle braid, and the roller bearing needs to be smooth as silk and free rolling so light lures retreived with light braid will not cause problems.

It needs to come with a spare spool.


Parts line line rollers and drag washers need to be available readily.

the stem needs to be very sturdy to handle alot of torque

drag must be smooth.

[Uncle Matt]

Definately must come with a spare spool. One that's quick and easy to change during an all out blitz when every few seconds count.

[striprman]

A reel that wont line twist
a reel that the bail springs wont break or screw up... ever
a reel that the bail wont snap shut.. no matter the orientation of the bail on the reel prior to the cast
something that sand wont get into, and if it does, wont jam the spool and will wash out with ease
strong (but not brittle or soft) graphite spool (rocks and aluminum/titanium spools don't go well together)
"reverse" long cast spool for extra distance
big strong line roller with bearings that actually let it turn...
a shaft that wont bend.. causing the whole reel to f up

gears strong enough so that if I'm turning the crank against the fish (in my exuberence) the gears won't strip or become disengaged because the body of the reel isn't strong enough.
silky smooth, non jerky drag.. that lasts..
a handle that wont "unscrew" and loosen up while your fishing..only when you want it to..

no screws, caps levers and adjustment mechanisms that fall off or come loose while your fishing

place levers where they won't get accidently bumped and engaged (or disengaged)when cranking in a big fish

a finish that lasts, heavy anodize or something

no corroding materials

strong foot and leg.. I've had reels that broke where the leg connects to the foot.. after very long use..

things out of the way so you can easily "palm" the spool for extra drag..

mono and braid.. able to use both
waterproof
easy to take apart
easy to lubricate

supplied with parts that are known to wear, and will eventually need to be replaced.. easily

a "fix it" and adjustment tool that is only one or 2 (common) tools instead of something that looks like something you've never seen before. something that you can fix with a jacknife blade if necessary.. easy to take apart and fix..


did I forget anything ?

[Uncle Matt]

Yeah what he said!!!!!

[nightfighter]

Watch the weight too.

[Fishpart]

Pretty good list of requirements. I would like to add robust fasteners so it can be maintained at home several times a year without fear of the soft brass screws twisting off.

Powder coat is nice, cheaper than plating and stands up to the elements.

Easy on the BB's they are the first place the rust attacks.

[PNG]

Originally Posted by mikecc

I have been asked from a reel company to ask you guys & gals what do you want to see in a fishing reel.

My suggestion was a full line up of spinners from 12 – 30 mono classes, But capable to withstand braid. Extra metal spool,
Metal Body with Instant anti reverse, BB Line Roller, long cast spool design , HD Gears with a screw in handle not a pass thru handle. Handle has to be solid with a metal collar not plastic machined if possible. Water Proof drag, NO fancy colors with flashy Gold or silver, just a plain powder coated or anodized body, reel has to be dunkable. And must cost under $175. preferably $130-$150

What do you people think.

Why bother, they have asked in the past and done the opposite. What ever happened to the Penn guy, did he get fired? They all$uck

[Clogston29]

Basically a cheap version of a van staal is what I would want to see. But the problem is that the only way to do it is to make it cheaper which is gonna lead to problems. If they improve the drag and line roller on the 706, make one in a size between the 706 and 710, and add some seals to limit water intrusion I think penn would have a winner. I'm a bailless guy and I don't think a reel without a bail can be made with a long cast spool or to lay braid on the reel as well as say a stradic because the oscilation has to be slow enough so that the spool is in the right position when the handle is in the right (down) position for the cast.

The problem with a quality surf spinning reel is that it has a very small target audience. There are plenty of nice, smooth, quality reels out there that are great for the boat guys so a reel made just for the surf is really only gonna appeal to surf guys. When the market is small like that, the price has to be high because the manufacturer can't make their money on quantity.

[maddog2020]

We all pretty much want the same things - here is my two cents:

SLOWER RPM (3.5 to 4 tops) - this will give better winch ability and allow us to fish lures correctly!

MANUAL bail - u must close it w/ your hand.

If they want to go to bailess - use TWO line rollers: faster to pick up line and I hate snagging the counterweight. Or have the counterweight removeable so you can attach another line roller assembly (this kit shouldn't be more than about $30 tops....lol).

larger diameter spindle - something like 5/16"/ 8mm.

Large round oversized knob that has NO rubber on it. Chunkle of delrin would be nice instead of cold aluminum. Shaped like the ol' Penn 706.

DO AWAY w/ all the dumb holes all over the reel to make it "look" cool. Joke that it saves weight.

Skirt spool design.

NO graphite side plates! Give me aluminum.

ceramic drag washers - self service drag is needed.

SOLID stainless handle - no joints: screws into body and handle bolts to end.

THICKENED stem - weakest link to where it mounts to rod - thicken it up 50% (oval). When we wipe out the reel can take the impact.

Slow spool oscillation/tight line packing - not course like the old Penn or VS so braids wind on level.

When you taking orders, mikecc?

[baldwin]

Looks like the answers were covered sufficiently. My personal priorities are: manual bail or one that doesn't snap shut on the cast, and water-tight gear housing. I swim back from my rocks way too often.

[ProfessorM]

Hardcoat anodize the alum. The powder coat will not hold up in the salt. Got to be hardcoat though. Paul

[TheSpecialist]

I think a line of reels with a lightweight to midweight body, that has the internal guts to handle big fish. Make the spools like they do on some Shimano's , 5000 size spool fits the 4000 size body etc. Parts that are easy to get, especially line rollers, main shafts, bearings, and drag washers. I agree with slip if you are using more than 20 pound mono on a spinner you should switch to conventional if mono is absolutely required, or switch to braid on the spinner. I would,nt mind seeing some sort of beefed-up snapshot on the larger ones for throwing big jigs with braid...

[Fishpart]

Forgot....NO DIECAST Internal Parts.

[Mike P]

If we're asking for all of what's been posted, with a price under a deuce, we might as well ask for the moon--it ain't gonna happen.

Take the basic Penn 704/706. Add a one way roller bearing to get rid of the handle slop and the click that so many seem to find annoying. Beef up the 704 bail springs. Add a ball bearing line roller to the 704. Drill the 704 cup and add 3 drain holes to the 706 cup. Find a better ball bearing for the 706's line roller, one that doesn't sound like it's full of sand new out of the box Add a small rubber gasket between the reel body and the side plate. That'll do it.

If it's too costly to make in the US, then at least have the decency to make it in a democracy, like Korea or Taiwan. I'm sick of supporting mainland China's slave labor and unfair trade practices

[Back Beach]

Hickory stick and a piece of kite string. Empty coke bottle for a reel.

[Stewie]

I was gonna say a Squidder with a 5/1 retrieve, but the hickory stick trumps me.

[Backbeach Jake]

Penn 700z series speak to me. I haven't found a reel that I like better. Instant anti reverse can be a pia when you overcrank. Ya gotta flip the friggin' bail and try again. In the dark. I like the way that you can back pedal them to keep a lure swimming in the wash. I've had no problems with windknots with them either. I've tried bail-less, it's just not for me, trying to catch the line. Just too much time looking at the reel and not the water. This is just me, I'm not trying to sell Penns.

[PI guy]

Originally Posted by Fishpart

Pretty good list of requirements. I would like to add robust fasteners so it can be maintained at home several times a year without fear of the soft brass screws twisting off.

I'm all for this as well, Recessed stainless (or titanium,lighter) allen head screws in the body would be the nutz. You would be hard pressed to duff one of those while doing repairs or cleanings. This is like a dream reel wish list, great post!

[Tagger]

Like Slip said ... no bail slamming shut .. Have the reel set up so when the roller bearing or line pick up is in the up position the handle is always forward.. So on a hard cast you don't get that handle spin closing the bail .. and reel has to be beefy enough to jig 3-6,,and weigh absolutely nothing..

[basswipe]

Originally Posted by Mike P

Take the basic Penn 704/706. Add a one way roller bearing to get rid of the handle slop and the click that so many seem to find annoying. Beef up the 704 bail springs. Add a ball bearing line roller to the 704. Drill the 704 cup and add 3 drain holes to the 706 cup. Find a better ball bearing for the 706's line roller, one that doesn't sound like it's full of sand new out of the box Add a small rubber gasket between the reel body and the side plate. That'll do it.

That'll do it for me.I'd be more than happy with that.

[stripadan]

That all sounds great , but I'd prefer three waterproof Abu's. 5000, 6500, and 7000. And they need to have better drags. That would cover all my bass fishing from small to large. My 6500's and 7000's spend a lot of time under water with little maintenance. I'm not wetsuiting, just heavy surf. A good grease makes a big difference in how a convench handles the water.

[Flaptail]

Light and well balanced, dunkable and braid super friendly. Skirted spool, ventilated so you can hose her down. Bail assembly made of solid components ( including screws and such) maybe Titanium manual trip over bail with cast lock. Nice gripable handle not made of the same metal as the reel body itself, you know space age rubber non slip. Silent instant stop anti reverse and silent drag, no clicking, clickers or ratchets. Ceramic drag washers, impregnated and the best bearings you can find on the planet. Oil filled with port for filling as lubricant. User friendly for at home maintenance of parts and cleaning. Parts availability locally. Flat balck or Pewter powder coated. A roller that rolls no matter what. Quick change spools that do not cost an arm and a leg. Pro rated guarantee. 150.00 tops and made in the USA.