Lead Pouring tips

[Mugz]

I just made a Tail Weight Mold using a blank U-Do-it mold.
Someone gave me a lead pouring pot.
Any tips you can give me before I try? I understand the safety aspect.

Someone told me to heat up the mold itself before I pour. Is this necessary? How much do I need to heat it if so?
Do I need to apply some sort of mold release on my mold?

[Mugz]

Just did a search and found all the onfo I needed.......

[JohnnyD]

Good luck. Took me a few attempts to get the knack of pouring jigs, but you'll get the hang of it real quick.

Definitely heat the mold with a torch before your first pour, especially in the area right where the lead enters the mold. On the first couple of pours, I'll leave the lead inside the mold for 5-7 minutes to heat it up. It made the rest of the pours a lot easier for me.

What are you using as a heating element?

[Mugz]

One of those 10 lb Lee production pots.....

I'll post a picture of my mold later.

[ProfessorM]

just pour a few without a thru wire and that will warm up mold and then just remelt them down again. Very simple. Just do out doors or with lots of ventilation. Use PAM on your thru wires so they pull out easy.

[Mugz]

Didn't think of Pam.....good idea.
My thru wires are not actual through wires you'd use for plug making. I made a piece with 1/8" stainless rods press fit into a piece of aluminum. It slides up into the bottom of the U-Do-It mold. I'll try and take a picture tonight. Going to try it tonight.

[Mugz]

One quick question......after I pour, how long do I wait before removing them? 2 mins, 5 mins, 15 mins? I imagine it solidifies quickly and the more I pour the hotter the mold gets....so I Imagine I would need to wait longer, the more I pour?

[go4broke44]

I use finishing nails as my "through wires" for lead molds, just hit them with some wd-40 before putting them in.

I usually pull them out as soon as the lead sets up, I'm using a mold made from mahogany though so it doesn't really benefit from heating up.

[ProfessorM]

10 seconds should be good

I probably would have gone with a smaller thru wire hole. That way you could have gotten more weight out of them per length. I am making a special tail weight mold for Slip right now . I'll take some pictures when I ever finish it.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[Mugz]

Originally Posted by ProfessorM

10 seconds should be good

I probably would have gone with a smaller thru wire hole. That way you could have gotten more weight out of them per length. I am making a special tail weight mold for Slip right now . I'll take some pictures when I ever finish it.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Good Point........I have 2 more U-do-it blank molds that I will be machining. I will take that advice into consideration once I feel confident with this one. I know it's not rocket science, but I don't want to screw up a blank mold.

I traded a plug for the whole set-up a few years ago and it's just been sitting there, along with the blank molds. I forgot I had it until recently.

[ProfessorM]

I prefer to drill the hole that holds the pin not thru the mold so it doesn't fall thru. I understand you made a device to come up from the bottom and hold all the pins. That is a good remedy. Lots of people drill all the way thru the mold and regret it after the pins start falling on the floor after a little slack develops in the mold. I also would make the tail wgt. hole in the mold .010 to .015 smaller than what you are using for a drill size to drill your tail wgt. hole in the wood, plug. You will get some buildup of sealer, and if you epoxy seal it will be even worse, and then you will have trouble jamming the wgt. into the hole in the plug. Next thing you know it will split the plug. Just much easier making the tail wgt. undersized. The PAM works great and smells a hell of a lot better than hot WD-40. I just have a bunch of pins sitting in PAM . Pour some wgts. and open mold drop on table and then put in other pins and pour again. That way the lead can cool a bit before you pull the pins out and you won't burn your little digits. You don't have to go overboard with PAM just every few pours get them wet. I use a small vise grip to pull the pins and a glove on other hand to hold hot wgt's. That is about it. Have fun and be safe with the fumes. I like to do it outside with a fan blowing on a nice day.

[Mugz]

I had success last night......I only did one pour.
I did however rush the process and forgot the PAM....I was still able to get the wts off tho, but PAM would have been key. Of course as I was trying to pull them off did I realize I forgot the PAM.
I never thought of making the wts a few thousanths smaller. But, I put my wts in, do my tail wrap then epoxy seal. But, the hole still gets clogged with primer a little. And I have split wood trying to get wts in.
My next mold will be the slightly smaller diameter.
I did the pour outside and the fumes were not pleasant. The wts I poured were just about exactly 1/2 oz....
Thanks for the tips.

[Rockfish9]

I use the Webber grill spray.. it lasts alot longer than Pam and isnt asd slippery, one application will eaisily pour 75 -100 weights without reapplying..

[pbadad]

To keep the tailweights from having to be forced in , I drilled the weight hole 1/64" larger. i.e. 1/4" weight- 17/64" drill bit.

[eastendlu]

I use molybdenum as a release agent works great and last forever.

[Grapenuts]

I use brite finish nails,5lb box..pour till I'm blue in the face..then the next few nites yank them out of the lead an throw the nails in a plastic box w/lid, one squirt of oil in the box, pop the lid on,good to go for the next time which maybe years from now cause I made so dang many the first time.