Simple Brine for preserving rigged eels/skins

[DZ]

Simple Brine for preserving rigged eels/skins

Over the winter I attended various fishing shows to help promote my book project. Because the book includes a chapter about eelbob’s there was lots of interest in eelbob rigging. I had a few rigged eelbobs on display and kept them moist in a Tupperware container of brine. It is interesting to note that avid surfcasters at Surf Day in Jersey told me they found my booth by following the sweet aroma of eel brine – I took this as a compliment. Other than how to debone eels the most frequent question I was asked is how I stored my rigged eels. Thought I’d share what I do when storing riggies.

I start by getting a large enough watertight Tupperware container for my eels – longer is better as I don’t like storing them curled up.
I fill the container with lukewarm tap water.
Then I add Kosher Salt (do not use table salt) into the water and stir. Keep adding salt until it stops dissolving and the salt starts to settle on the bottom. Let it sit for 10 minutes and stir again. Add more salt until you have a layer on the bottom of the container that stops dissolving.
Add your rigged eels to this brine – cover and shake. Let sit for an hour for the eels to absorb the brine - then add more salt to the water until it stops dissolving. Store container in the freezer. The brine should turn into a slush... but not freeze solid – if needed add more salt from time to time. (Caution: If you’re married or have non-fishing guests who use the freezer make sure to LABEL the container EELS with a sharpie! Ladies don't like surprises.) When you return from a casting session throw eels back into the brine. Rigged eels stored in this slush will last for a very long time.

If you use different methods of rigging eels like eelbobs, tin squid eels, etc., which are rigged using different types of metals it’s important to be aware of electrolysis.

Electrolysis (Electrolytic Corrosion) occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of an electrolyte, such as water - or brine for the purpose of this discussion. The dissimilar metals set up a galvanic action that often results in the deterioration of one of them.

THE GALVANIC SERIES
1. Aluminum
2. Zinc
3. Steel
4. Iron
5. Nickel
6. Stainless Steel 400 Series
7. Tin
8. Lead
9. Brass
10. Copper
11. Bronze
12. Stainless Steel 300 Series

When any two metals in this list are in contact, with an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is corroded.
Here the metals are listed in a sequence in which each metal is corroded by all that follow it.
In other words, when two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal to the other metal, and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated, while the other will remain intact. In the case of eel rigging you may want to check the eyes of hooks used, especially if you keep the rigged eels in brine over the winter. I learned this many years ago – the hard way. I always change out my riggie hooks from season to season if they are rigged in contact with a dissimilar metal.