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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug? |
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03-04-2014, 03:09 PM
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#1
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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Basic Vega Set-Up Question
Is the top tip of the cutter supposed to be exactly inline with the center of the turning axis for the best performance?
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03-04-2014, 03:52 PM
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#2
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Retired Surfer
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Sunset Grill
Posts: 9,511
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Yes
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-04-2014, 04:07 PM
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#3
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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Thanks. Having unexpected trouble with hard maple, even with a new cutter.
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03-04-2014, 04:22 PM
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#4
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Annisquam Assassin
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Peabody, MA
Posts: 669
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try rounding the edges with a rasp while it's on the lathe, that might help make the cuts easier. That's helped me a lot.
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Calling fishing a hobby is like calling brain surgery a job. ~Paul Schullery
There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman, trying to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, and getting licked in the process. ~Paul O'Neil, 1965
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03-04-2014, 05:49 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: A village some where
Posts: 3,436
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Hmm i was told it is suppose to be slightly above center by 1/8 inch.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-04-2014, 06:20 PM
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#6
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Georgetown MA
Posts: 18,203
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I go right on center....and try to take less wood until you get it rounded out
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-04-2014, 06:47 PM
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#7
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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I was above center about 1/32" or 1/16" and just fine-tuned it to be dead-center and it eliminated the problem -- which was burnishing instead of easily cutting into the hard maple when getting down to about 1/4".
Thanks for for the feedback.
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03-05-2014, 01:42 PM
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#8
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Certified Mass-hole
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Jackson, NJ but born and raised in Massachusetts.
Posts: 1,223
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Here's a tip. The revolving material above center is coming towards you. Anything below center is going away from you. You can only cut material that is coming at you.
By setting your cutter right on center you accomplish 2 things.
1. You cut the material as it comes towards you.
2. Everything below center allows for clearance for your cutter
If your cutter is above center the negative clearance on the cutter is negated and the tool drags.
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03-05-2014, 02:43 PM
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#9
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Retired Surfer
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Sunset Grill
Posts: 9,511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charleston
Here's a tip. The revolving material above center is coming towards you. Anything below center is going away from you. You can only cut material that is coming at you.
By setting your cutter right on center you accomplish 2 things.
1. You cut the material as it comes towards you.
2. Everything below center allows for clearance for your cutter
If your cutter is above center the negative clearance on the cutter is negated and the tool drags.
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Yup!
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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Swimmer a.k.a. YO YO MA
Serial Mailbox Killer/Seal Fisherman
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03-05-2014, 06:35 PM
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#10
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____________
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: new bedford, Ma.
Posts: 651
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I always thought a shade under was better?
…either way I have my pulled back a shade and like it.
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Nobody calls me Lebowski. You got the wrong guy. I'm the Dude, man.
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03-05-2014, 10:42 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: North Branford,Ct.
Posts: 7,655
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Slightly under center is the preferred location I use for plugs and baseball bats. Vega reccommends center or slightly under center axis. Never above unless you have the cutter mounted on the opposite side, upside down.
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Billy D.
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03-05-2014, 11:55 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Buxton, Maine
Posts: 1,727
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A little trick for the harder woods. With a router table you set up a corner bit and set your fence so as to take the corners off your plug banks.
With a table saw set your blade at 45% and your fence so as to just take the corners off your blanks. Be sure to use a good blade and push sticks to keep your fingers out of the way. Most of the smaller lathes don't have the power to keep the rpms up that is needed with harder woods this causes the bits to catch an dig into the wood. I do this on some of the harder birch,maple,mahogany and woods like epa. I learned this trick making reel seat inserts for some of the high end fly rods I do.
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03-06-2014, 09:02 AM
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#13
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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Thanks Bill & others.
Ron:
I use a self-centering vise for my small drill press so I rely on the squared ends...though I suppose if I just shaved the corners it wouldn't make a difference. I'll try it by angling the table on the band saw. Ipe is some seriously hard wood. I gave up on it because I couldn't control the leaking tannins on plugs that got too hot.
Last edited by Eric Roach; 03-06-2014 at 09:20 AM..
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03-06-2014, 09:44 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Buxton, Maine
Posts: 1,727
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One of these days you gotta come up and I' show you my set up. A couple of things that i do make a big difference on turning. Ron
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03-06-2014, 11:45 AM
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#15
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____________
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: new bedford, Ma.
Posts: 651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Roach
Thanks Bill & others.
Ron:
I use a self-centering vise for my small drill press so I rely on the squared ends...though I suppose if I just shaved the corners it wouldn't make a difference. I'll try it by angling the table on the band saw. Ipe is some seriously hard wood. I gave up on it because I couldn't control the leaking tannins on plugs that got too hot.
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Does the vise itself tilt? If working off the square ends I think you would be fine with just a fence (even if you knock off the edges).
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Nobody calls me Lebowski. You got the wrong guy. I'm the Dude, man.
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03-07-2014, 05:04 AM
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#16
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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No, that vise doesn't tilt.
I angled my bandsaw 45 degrees, set the fence and shaved the corners off my last hard maple turn. Added time but less wear on the cutter, I suppose.
I also maxed the speed on my lathe -- didn't notice much difference there.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-07-2014, 07:28 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Buxton, Maine
Posts: 1,727
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I remember the ist lathe I used in high school-LOL- yes I can remeberthat far back. It was a big old Delta-rockwell.We turned baseball bats for ourselves that never would have met todays rules.The ist plugs I turned were little ones and I had to be carefull as the thing ate wood real fast. It had a 3 horse motor on it. We had to hand sharpen the bit for it. Some of the bowl makers I know gave up on the mini and midi as there just isn't enough power to do what they need. Harder woods like maple,mahogany an birch are a hard turn for a midi.You go to 1 hp or bigger well things change.I'm looking at a couple to upgrade to now as it will make a huge difference. They aren't cheap either LOL.More power is the real fix.
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03-07-2014, 10:22 AM
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#18
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripermaineiac
One of these days you gotta come up and I' show you my set up. A couple of things that i do make a big difference on turning. Ron
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I'd like that, sending PM.
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03-08-2014, 11:57 AM
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#19
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Certified Mass-hole
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Jackson, NJ but born and raised in Massachusetts.
Posts: 1,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Roach
No, that vise doesn't tilt.
I angled my bandsaw 45 degrees, set the fence and shaved the corners off my last hard maple turn. Added time but less wear on the cutter, I suppose.
I also maxed the speed on my lathe -- didn't notice much difference there.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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It's cheaper top replace the insert on your lathe tool than to replace the band saw blade.
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03-08-2014, 05:02 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: A village some where
Posts: 3,436
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Set up my new Vega today, 1/16th under, awesome..... great thread. Ran a test piece after eyeballing it. .004 off from one end to the other, i think that is acceptable.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-08-2014, 06:39 PM
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#21
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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That's awesome -- congrats'. What do you plan on turning first?
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03-08-2014, 07:07 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: A village some where
Posts: 3,436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Roach
That's awesome -- congrats'. What do you plan on turning first?
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Already turned 20 of the new metals lips i tested a few weeks back. Swims amazing.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
Last edited by iamskippy; 03-08-2014 at 07:24 PM..
Reason: Added video
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03-08-2014, 08:51 PM
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#23
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Big E
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Seabrook, NH
Posts: 681
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Man, very cool. The music had me smiling.
I don't know metal lip variants too well. Is that a Danny type?
That huge needle is awesome, cool walking action -- nice work.
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03-08-2014, 09:24 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: A village some where
Posts: 3,436
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Surfster type
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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03-09-2014, 08:21 PM
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#25
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Pluggin' Addict
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Knee deep in the hoopla
Posts: 54
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Cutting tool should be set to center line.
Use a table saw at 45-deg to knock the corners off the stock. Provided the stock is square self centering jigs still work just fine. Take a deep enough cut and it will help keep the edges from slamming the cutting tool. An octagon is best is you can do it. Cut to desired length afterwards.
Makes a lot of sawdust, but a decent carbide blade will have no trouble making the cut. Trimmings make for wicked decent kindling.
I've ripped down a pallet of 1.5"x1.5" 8' stock in an evening so it doesn't take much effort but saves a lot of grief at the lathe. Just use push sticks and hang on to your fingers - you might need them later...
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