Reel Breakdown and Maintenance

[Num70]

Quick question...Can anyone point me in the direction of what they think is the ultimate reel breakdown and maintenance checklist? I figured there must be a link or something already floating around. I think maybe there's a better way than what I've been doing every fall. As the number of reels in the rotation grows, it's time to automate the process. Any insight is appreciated. (All Spinning reels - if it matters). Thanks a lot.

[Clammer]

WHat the @#$% is that ///////////

[fishweewee]

Materials needed:

Your reel schematics/owner's manual (these are often available online)
Mild dishwashing detergent
Toothbrush
Gojo hand cleaner - the WHITE CREAM IN THE WHITE TUB NOT THE ABRASIVE CLEANER IN THE ORANGE CONTAINER (available at Wal-Mart)
Rubbing alcohol
Q-tips
Penn Reel Grease
Replacement drag washers
WD-40
Wire
Electric hair dryer
20 weight 3:1 Oil or your favorite bearing lube
Pennzoil marine grease (really a thick oil sold in tubes at Wal-Mart) or your favorite solid gear-pack grease

Basin of warm water to rinse off degreased parts
Small bowl to hold rubbing alcohol
Small container to hold WD-40 overspray
Several small containers to segregate parts/assemblies
Paper towel

Checklist:

Remove line.
Rinse reel off with warm soapy water.
Take a deep breath. Turn on your favorite TV show.

1. Separate spool from main reel assembly.
a) Remove metal and fiber drag washers.
b) Clean metal drag washers with mild detergent and warm water. Remove any rusting or pitting with steel wool. Dry with paper towel. Discard fiber washers replace with fresh ones. Lubricate both sets of washers if desired.
c) Clean spool, making sure to get as much salt deposit out of the recesses where drag washers are. Don't forget the underside. I find a toothbrush is very helpful. Dry off spool.
d) Re-insert drag washers in proper sequence.
e) Scrub drag knob. Remove old lube inside shaft threads, clean - taking care to get any grit out that might ding the threads, and then apply new grease/lube to the threads(Penn Reel grease is good).

2. Separate rotor from reel body Be extremely GENTLE with plastic rotors - they are FRAGILE. Reels will vary by make but this usually involves removing the screws from the bottom of the rotor - actually now that I think about it you might have to loosen a nut or two as well). Scrub everything with warm soapy water. Replace any springs that are too stretched out.

3. Disassemble, clean, and lube bail.

4. Open up the side plate of the main body.
a) Remove sideplate (usually secured by a screw). Be wicked careful if the screws go into threads that are in a graphite body (the screw holes can get worn down).
b) Remove gears (main and anti-reverse). Check gears for missing teeth - if several are missing, it's best to replace the gears. Otherwise, remove all grease from gears by applying Gojo hand cream, scrub with toothbrush and rinse off in a tub of water. Dip gears in rubbing alcohol for final degrease, pat dry, then lube generously with Penn Reel grease.
c) GENTLY remove all ball bearings. Some will be stuck in place. DON'T BANG ON 'EM WITH A SCREWDRIVER TO REMOVE THEM - YOU'LL DAMAGE 'EM. Use a pair of pliers tips covered with paper towel and GENTLY pull 'em out. Use paper towel to remove heavy grease from the bearings. Inspect - if any are rusting or damaged, replace them (the bearings affect how smooth your retrieve is). Put the bearings on a piece of wire. Heat the ball bearings with a blow dryer on high heat for a minute. Flush the bearings with WD-40 (use the red hose nozzle thingy to direct the blast). Pat the bearings dry. Then repeat the blow-dry and WD-40 flush several more times. Blow-dry one last time, then put a few drops of 20 weight 3:1 oil (or your favorite bearing lubs) into the bearings.
d) Gently remove shaft. Use the same cleaning/degreasing method outlined in step 4b with the shaft. Check shaft for pitting - use steel wool to remove pitting. Put a generous coat of Penn reel grease on the shaft.

5. Clean out the main body of the reel. If there is a lot of grease in the gearbox, use Q-tips to scoop out the excess grease. DON'T USE GUNSCRUBBER - leaves too much crap behind. Then, apply Gojo to the inside to remove the rest of the grease. Use toothbrush and warm soapy water to scrub the inside. Dry thoroughly (you can use a blow-dryer to drive out the excess water).

6. Reassemble gears, shaft, and bearings.
a) This will vary by make, but usually you have to put a gear in first, then the shaft, the the bearings, and maybe some more gears.
b) Once finished, pack the main body of the reel with grease. I like to use a thick marine oil (it's called marine grease) that is similar to what Van Staal uses. On some reels, it will leak out. So you might want to use a firmer grease instead. Experiment and see what works for you. Secure the gearbox cover.

7. Re-attach rotor and spool.

8. Replace line on spool. A Berkley line-winder, available from Cabelas, is very helpful.

Soup to nuts, it take me about an hour to do each reel thoroughly. What can I say I'm anal.

[Num70]

Now that's what I'm talking about! That seems like a real thorough process. Thanks a lot FishWeeWee!

[fishweewee]

Been meaning to write my notes down - this is how I do it. It may be overkill to some, but my reels do get dunked quite a bit. Great way to kill the winter hours.

BTW, conventionals are a bit simpler to clean up (with the exception of the Daiwa SloSHes).

[Notaro]

now, i got another different procedure to do it. thanks, ben. are you going to teach me sometimes in winter?

[fishweewee]

Yeah, if you're bored out of your mind and have nothing else to do Joseph.

[Notaro]

Originally posted by fishweewee
Yeah, if you're bored out of your mind and have nothing else to do Joseph.

i get bored in the winter easily, ben

[*LB]

Thanks, FW. That was helpful.