Preference or Intention?

[Zeal]

Probably will go under the "newbie overthought" questions but I can't help but ask:

When you guys and/or manufacturers create lures, are the spaces where the swivels for the treble hooks done not only to give the swivel room to move but also to intentionally let water into the lure to help it sink, get a specific action, etc.? I only ask this because of course not all lures have those open spaces in the body and instead have screw eyes so it is all closed.

I also see in numerous "How To's" on hook hangers where you would take the extra pieces wire used for through wire construction and make loops to use as hook hangers. For this, wouldn't you have to sodder these closed in the lure body? Or you would fill that hole so the hanger won't move like a screw eye?

[Zeal]

I ask because I see it in both Wood and Plastic lures (The bottom lure was given to me by my neighbor, I intend on replicating it but as to what brand and what it is I have no clue. My guess is that it's an old Pikie but what do I know?)

[numbskull]

The hanger hole is only to allow installation of the hook hanger....not to let water into the plug.

The hook hanger is usually a swivel....which is cheap, fast, convenient, strong, and maybe reduces fish loss because the fish has a harder time getting leverage.

You don't have to use swivels, creekchub didn't, and the early wood atoms and capt bills didn't. The fish is not likely to straighten the wire even if unsoldered unless you use very soft wire. Test one for yourself. For that matter, cheap swivels can fail after a period of corrosion.

[VTBasser]

Originally Posted by Zeal

When you guys and/or manufacturers create lures, are the spaces where the swivels for the treble hooks done not only to give the swivel room to move but also to intentionally let water into the lure to help it sink, get a specific action, etc.? I only ask this because of course not all lures have those open spaces in the body and instead have screw eyes so it is all closed.

The amount of water that would enter the voids created by the hook hole, through hole, and any tail or nose weight cavity is so small that I could not use that as a factor to adjusting sink rate or action. They are just the byproducts of through wiring. With all things being equal (good wood sealing technique especially) I think there would be little difference in the action and sink of a through wired verses a fully sealed plug. At least at my skill level I don't think I could account for the differences to my advantage.

Originally Posted by Zeal

I also see in numerous "How To's" on hook hangers where you would take the extra pieces wire used for through wire construction and make loops to use as hook hangers. For this, wouldn't you have to sodder these closed in the lure body? Or you would fill that hole so the hanger won't move like a screw eye?

No sodder needed. If you make each end of the hanger wire have two coils it will be plenty strong enough. Like you would make a tail loop just you would pull out the center wire and run your through wire through it when you assemble it. You also fill the hole with putty or epoxy to lock it into place. Oatey epoxy putty is my favorite for filling belly weigh and hanger holes.