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Old 12-29-2010, 06:41 PM   #1
Mr. Sandman
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Backing Plates

I am completely rebuilding my anchor windless and re-installing it correctly. (so much was wrong with it I don't want to get into it here) So, I have it all rebuilt and tested and I am now re-installing . Upon removal I notice there was no backing plate, it was bolted to the deck using SS hardware and washers. My deck is cored so there is no way I am putting this on without a backing plate, the windless can exert some real force so I want this load distributed over an area much larger than the washer area . So, I went down and cut/drilled some 1/4" AL plate to match all the holes in the unit...it all looks good... but.... now I am thinking AL is probably not the right metal in an anchor locker in contact with SS hardware. SO, now I am thinking either making a "plate" out of 5/8" marine plywood or maybe some SS plate (expensive and hard to cut).

What are your thoughts?
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:46 PM   #2
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G10

Wander down to the boat yard in Vineyardhaven and ask the yard guys if they have any scraps.

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Old 12-29-2010, 06:47 PM   #3
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I had 5/8 aluminum 12x12 put in my boat for the t top legs jim. It's not failed yet.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:05 PM   #4
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That G10 stuff is insanely tough...How do you machine it? I heard it eats up carbide tipped tools within a few inches.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:09 PM   #5
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Its not that bad as long as you don't go too thick.

Diamond table saw blade will do it fine. It will chew up teeth on everything else.

Make sure to bed with 4200 on BOTH sides (around the bolts).

If you really wanna make sure you have no core penetration, oversize the holes, fill with epoxy, redrill.

Last edited by likwid; 12-29-2010 at 08:17 PM..

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Old 12-29-2010, 08:13 PM   #6
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Plywood will rot over time. I agree with Ted.
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:52 AM   #7
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Jim:
Put a capstan on the research boat for hauling samples. used 1/4" Aluminum as the backing plate, 4200 on it, and then put SS fender washers.

Haven't had a problem with corrosion and it is very exposed.

Bryan

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Old 12-30-2010, 07:56 AM   #8
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You could use the Al and add a sacrifical zinc to it, watch the Al and replace it in a few years if need be. I agree anchor locker is a tough place high humidity/corrosive environment.

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Old 12-30-2010, 09:36 AM   #9
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Likwid...You think 1/4" G10 is the right thickness? I am going to order some 12X12" sheets and give it a try. I think if I can cut/drill it, it would be an ideal backing plate. That stuff is bulletproof, stiff, strong and non corrosive. I just don't think I can cut and drill it but I will give it a go.
My other thought was some 3/4" King Starboard but that stuff is kind of flexable.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sandman View Post
Likwid...You think 1/4" G10 is the right thickness? I am going to order some 12X12" sheets and give it a try. I think if I can cut/drill it, it would be an ideal backing plate. That stuff is bulletproof, stiff, strong and non corrosive. I just don't think I can cut and drill it but I will give it a go.
My other thought was some 3/4" King Starboard but that stuff is kind of flexable.
1/4" is more than enough.
Just go nice and slow drilling it, I bet depending on the space you could get away with an entire 12x12 square to back.

We use it for backing plates for winches.

There's no difference between drilling your fiberglass hull and G10.

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Old 12-30-2010, 11:49 AM   #11
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Jim, if you UPS it to me, i will drill it for you...

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Old 12-30-2010, 07:54 AM   #12
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Don't you mean 5200 hound?
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:44 AM   #13
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How much does this g10 cost?

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Old 02-14-2011, 08:07 AM   #14
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About 20 bucks for a 12X12X 1/8 sheet, I picked up a few 6 X 12 X 1/4" sheets (for cleat backing plates) and they were about 12 bucks a pop.
Not cheap but will do the job and last longer than the boat.

These guys have a ton of it up to big sheets but it is costly

McMaster-Carr
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:57 AM   #15
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That G10 stuff is the berries. Yes it does STINK when cutting.
We have plenty at work, and I used a piece to go over my anchor locker, mount a winlass and roller. I painted it white and it is still like the day I put it on. Never corrodes, never fades and stronger than steel. It is a resin filled and fiberglass reinforced. Not epoxy though.

I used carbide to cut it, and did it outdoors.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:44 AM   #16
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Wow! at those prices I'll stick with my CCA treated lumber!

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Old 02-17-2011, 03:15 PM   #17
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saturated plywood will work great for years and years. G10 will work great forever. That's the only difference.. besides a lot of $$$.

If I may make another suggestion. When bedding something that exposed to light (ie not a backing plate in a anchor locker) I'd highly suggest 3M 4000UV. It still has good bonding characteristics but doesn't yellow in the sun like 42/5200

btw JD is cheaper than McMaster for g10
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