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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 10-08-2003, 07:44 AM   #1
bassmaster
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whats the best sealer?

to use so the sap does not bleed through?

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Old 10-08-2003, 08:43 AM   #2
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Dave, i have been using Zar sander sealer with good results. i dilute with mineral spirits about 25%. i then dipp the plug in the solution. let hang about 15 minutes than wipe dry. i had a problem with darters splitting, when i started doing it this way haven't had any split so far. thats on about 20 that i have tested and a bunch that others are using. i use enamel as a finish, it sprays well out of the airbrush if you thin properly
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Old 10-08-2003, 08:49 AM   #3
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thanks and im wondering if it will stop bleeding of the sap outa the wood.
I got boiled linseed oil here but used thinnr to mix paintin the cave.
check u pms to i send one in 1 min

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Old 10-08-2003, 09:07 AM   #4
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Dave if you are getting sticky sap bleeding thru i don't think it will work.i have tired epoxing over knots on exterior trim onlly to have them bleed thru latter on.
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Old 10-08-2003, 11:20 AM   #5
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NOT even going THERE........

Over the Last Several Years HAB'S NEEDLEFISH Have Caught More "Confirmed" 30, 40, 50, and even 60 pound Striped Bass than any other Wooden Needlefish on the Market today. 2 Over 50lbs. and 1 Over 60lbs. in 2005 alone........... "HOOK UP WITH HAB'S" Your Best Bet For BIG BASS.....
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Old 10-08-2003, 11:52 AM   #6
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chickin....cluck,,,cluck

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Old 10-08-2003, 11:56 AM   #7
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Old 10-08-2003, 01:39 PM   #8
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minwax high performance wood hardener/sealer. i love the stuff.

live to fish. fish to live. rod tips high.
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:29 PM   #9
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Dave ..Zinsser,,, Primer-sealer,Stain kill,,,Bond coat .. in spray can ....that sanding sealer causes brain damage,,read the can ..u really can't afford to be working with that stuff ...

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Old 10-08-2003, 09:53 PM   #10
l.i.fish.in.vt
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Tagger are you referring to the wood hardener sealer or the Zar sander sealer i mentioned. i stay away from any the products that contain any of the ''zines'' like toluline xyuline ect.
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:21 PM   #11
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U guys ever try WATERLOX MARINE SEALER. This stuff is awesome. Its nice and thin, DRIES in 7 hours (sandable dry).
If im giving away a trade secret here, just pummel me. I'm used to it.

What kinda sap problem you got BM ?, sounds painful. maybe you need to see a doctor.
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Old 10-09-2003, 07:29 AM   #12
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sap bleeding through wood on a few at times
I dont think hanging in 130 degree shed helps during summer
But on another note I insulated the roof last year or this winter
and now im slowly doing the walls
hope it helps

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Old 10-09-2003, 12:40 PM   #13
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Maybe yer plugs are "sweating" cause they kmow whats comin next. They need some baby powder.
Id be sweating too if i was gonna get tossed into the wash to some predator fish 10x my size..

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Old 10-09-2003, 12:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by RATTLE
Maybe yer plugs are "sweating" cause they kmow whats comin next. They need some baby powder.
Id be sweating too if i was gonna get tossed into the wash to some predator fish 10x my size..
Nice..... 5 plugs up

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Old 10-09-2003, 01:42 PM   #15
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fish in VT...the stuff I have is Parks ...sanding sealer..I've used it in the past ,,now afraid to open the can ...says on can..NOTICE..Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with Permanent brain and nervous system damage...says a bunch of other real nasty stuff with big words...should just say.."melts your mellon " on the can ..Maybe they make them better now but sanding sealers have always been some of the nastiest stuff.. always looking for improvements in product with least risk,,,cause I'm a slob...YO!! NJ Tackle..Waterlox Marine Sealer ...what is it ...water base ? Big money ?...

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Old 10-09-2003, 02:15 PM   #16
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Sorry, that prev post was my brothers sign on. My computer is messed up at home, at work my sign on works.
Waterlox "original" marine sealer.
TUNG oil base, also has some special processed linseed oil too. and a couple other things. Ill chk the can tonite and post exacly whats in it. TSome sharp NJ & PA plug builder guys use it, and love it. It really does completely dry in 7 hours, Ive witnessed that. you need 2 coats according to the instr.
Only drawback I see is ,Yes its pricey, about $39 a gallon. But I think it saves a lot of time.
And it requires no thinning, just dip the whole plug, shake off excess, and wipe off the rest. Then hang to dry.

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Old 10-14-2003, 04:01 PM   #17
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Dave,Did you ever get a round to figuring out a way to heat "the man cave"????johnny"tRB"
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Old 10-15-2003, 01:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by pisrfcstr
Dave,Did you ever get a round to figuring out a way to heat "the man cave"????johnny"tRB"

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Old 10-23-2003, 01:16 PM   #19
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The best thing that I have found is plain old Amber Shellac... prime 1st, shellac any "suspect" areas and prime again. Just my 2 cents.

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Old 10-24-2003, 10:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by pisrfcstr
Dave,Did you ever get a round to figuring out a way to heat "the man cave"????johnny"tRB"
still insulating the place going to get another sheet or 2 and keep going a little here and there till im done.

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Old 10-26-2003, 06:58 PM   #21
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Dave,
The sap bleeding you are experiening probably has moore to do with the section of the log your wood was cut from. I am assuming you are using AYC(have read many of your post), and being a member of the cedar family contain a fair amount of resin located in the sapwood and heartwood areas. In AYC it would be very hard to distinguish between the heartwood and the sapwood when getting stock. If in fact your plugs were subjected to a very hot roof temperatures, as you state, they would certainly bleed.

Hopefully the bleeding has stopped...if it has, then you can waash the plug with acetone (fast evaporation) or tolulene(slow evaporation) but not in the Man Cave, and not barehanded as these cleaners go directly to the nervous system.

I would seal the plug with any oil (alkyd) based sealer, even thinned varnish. I stay away from shellac or lacquer based sealers (these are not waterproof) for exterior aplications.

Hope this helps
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Old 10-26-2003, 11:21 PM   #22
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Thank You Ed, You have been a great help to shed some light on the situation
Dave

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Old 10-27-2003, 02:58 PM   #23
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Talking

Boo!
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:28 PM   #24
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hey capeman the ape man U made it

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Old 11-01-2003, 04:44 PM   #25
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Waterlox ???

Hey NJ Tackle,

Where do you get the waterlox ? Who makes it ?
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Old 11-02-2003, 07:53 PM   #26
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I second the waterlox interrest ..??? aye NJ

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Old 11-03-2003, 03:10 PM   #27
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Smile Waterlox

Hey Tagger,

I did a search for Waterlox and found many retailers that sell the product.

Now, I'm confused between Waterlox and System three epoxy that someone else said worked very well.

Is the primer that you guys are all using ( Bin etc. ) waterbased ?
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Old 11-03-2003, 03:25 PM   #28
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Systems Three is a clear coat epoxy finish that is used to coat the plug after paint and all. Pretty hard stuff, needs 7 days to fully cure. Bin, I believe, it shellac based.

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Old 11-03-2003, 04:24 PM   #29
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I'm tinkled freakin pink with system 3 sb112....bashed the hell out of a plug yesterday at the ditch ''''not a scratch....nothing...system 3 clear coat good too..I'm using that at the end ..not using sealer on ayc anymore for base ...2 coats zin primer..paint..spar urethane...scuff...sb112......needles I want to seal maple....always looking for something better..don't mean to be confusing..I'm flexible.. I want to here about this waterlox for sealing other woods...apples and oranges..

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Old 11-03-2003, 10:13 PM   #30
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Sorry for the delay.
The co. is Waterlox Coatings Corp.
9808 Meech Ave, Cleveland OH 44105

1 800 321 0377
info@waterlox.com (email)

the product is Waterlox OriginalMarine Sealer (comes in a Yellow and light green can)

ingredients cas#
Mineral spirits - 64742-48-9
Specially Processed Tung oil 8001-20-5
Esther Gum 8050-31-5
Phenolic Resin 54579-44-1
Specially Processed Linseed oil 8001-26-1


I got mine at a Benjamin Moore Dealer. You can call the co. for a dealer near you.
The stuff is very fast drying (7 hours).
Thats about it.

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