Drill Bits For Plug Building

[Eric Roach]

Looking for some advice on good drill bits for plug building before I lay some cash down. I never really paid much attention to wood bits before...Can't believe the variety.

Are there any "specialized" bits I should have? My buddy started me off with a Forstner set (thanks, Craig). But I'm not sure of the brad point bit for through-drilling. Any others?

Thanks, and Merry Christmas.

[Mr. Krinkle]

I use a 1/8" Milwaukee bit they sell at Home Depot. I believe its 10" but I cut it down to around 6", slap in the drill chuck on my lathe and do my holes with that. I have another 10" Milwaukee bit I leave in my hand drill and finish any through drilling that needs to be done.

I would not go crazy spending money on drill bits. Some will probably disagree. Ever since I started using the method i've described I have not been messing up blanks the way I used to.

Someone from another post said they don't use brad points. I agree with that. When I was using them I was constantly screwing up while through drilling.

The Forstner bits are good for doing eyes, and counter-sinking belly grommets. I also use a 1/2" forstner bit to make my holes for lead tail weights on my pencils.

Good luck

[Pete F.]

I do a lot of plugs with a 3/16 bit. I drill some with a 3/16 from the back and 1/8 from the front. The 3/16 bit is considerably more resistant to wandering. I use long bits from the hardware store and cut them down to 8 or 9 inches.

[ProfessorM]

again this has been talked about for years. As short a drill as you need. As short a flute as you can use. Those fancy smancy drills are a waste of $$$ IMO. Those long drills with long flutes are useless, too flimsy and if you are not backing your drill out every 1/4 to a 1/2 inch you are going to have trouble.The harder the species the more the sawdust, chips, have to be cleared. The wood is not going to flow up the flutes more than an inch, if that, so those long fluted drills are useless. An aircraft drill, which features very short flute length, is perfect for all you will do and come in any length you want. I prefer 5/32 but what dia. you choose will be your preference. The larger the dia. the more stable and rigid the bit, pretty obvious. good luck and use the search too as it has been discussed many times. P.


I am talking thru drilling here

[Charleston]

Originally Posted by ProfessorM

again this has been talked about for years. As short a drill as you need. As short a flute as you can use. Those fancy smancy drills are a waste of $$$ IMO. Those long drills with long flutes are useless, too flimsy and if you are not backing your drill out every 1/4 to a 1/2 inch you are going to have trouble.The harder the species the more the sawdust, chips, have to be cleared. The wood is not going to flow up the flutes more than an inch, if that, so those long fluted drills are useless. An aircraft drill, which features very short flute length, is perfect for all you will do and come in any length you want. I prefer 5/32 but what dia. you choose will be your preference. The larger the dia. the more stable and rigid the bit, pretty obvious. good luck and use the search too as it has been discussed many times. P.

"Fancy Smancy" drills ! Paul you have to stop using those Hi Tech terms my friend.

[numbskull]

I use good brad points (Fuller) for all drilling except the through hole.
Regular bits will wander when trying to drill belly holes. Fostner bits are nice, and you will certainly find use for a few sizes (3/8-1/2 in particular).

Split point bits are another option for belly holes, they don't wander, but I find brad points easier to center.

The real issue is getting a bit the correct size for the grommets you use. This is not that simple, since grommet sizes are slightly different and you want a firm fit to keep it in the plug until the epoxy dries. Particularly in maple you end up with very odd sizes (think 64ths).

Step drills for enlarging through wire holes to fit through wire weights are also very helpful. A regular bit will wander and throw off the plugs balance. You will only need one or two sizes but they are costly.

A Kutzall, or Salty ball in 3/4-1" is useful for poppers.

A 3/4" -1.25" sanding drum is very useful for bottles, pencil popper faces, and pikie heads.

Finally, get a few plug cutters 3/8-1/2 ". When you mis-drill a belly hole, which I did often while learning, or decide after a test swim you want to change hook location, it is easy to drill a plug to epoxy it in and save a plug body.

[jeffthechef]

i like the plug cutter idea...wish i knew that sooner!

[Eric Roach]

Thanks for sll this information.

[Mr. Krinkle]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Finally, get a few plug cutters 3/8-1/2 ". When you mis-drill a belly hole, which I did often while learning, or decide after a test swim you want to change hook location, it is easy to drill a plug to epoxy it in and save a plug body.

You really do learn something new everyday!

[O.D. Mike]

Paul,
What do you use to through drill your plugs? Where can you find the 5/32 bits?

Thanks for your time,
Mike

[GattaFish]

Through drilling with a 5/32 makes it easy since the nose grommet will fit right in....

I have the fuller brad points with the spurs ground off,,, This is a paste from the email they sent me when I ordered them,,,, I found that the 5 3/8" bits are the ones I do almost all of my drilling with on the drill press,,,,

This is from an old post.........

I have even been in touch with W.L Fuller and got a couple of the special bits coming. This was the return email from with part numbers for 5/32 bits.

We have some information for you and a few stock numbers. First, we recommend removing the spurs from Brad Point Drills when drilling through end-grain. The center point on the Brad will then lead the drill straight through the grain. We have Brad Point Drills in the following lengths up to 10" Overall Length.
Overall Length
2-1/16" 25000156
3-1/8" 25100156
5-3/8" 25200156
8" 25300156
10" 25400156

There is no extra charge to remove the spurs on the Brad Points. However, it must be specified at the time of order. These items are on Catalog 25 pages 39, 40, 43, 44. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us.

[Rockfish9]

5/32 aircraft bits bright finish... Unless you drill with a 4 jaw chuck you will need 3" and 6".... Heed the advise of the Professor.. it is spot on...

[O.D. Mike]

Thanks Gattafish!!!

[PeteL]

I've heard "bright finish" suggested for through-drills several times. Why is that (in what way is that better)?

[GattaFish]

Originally Posted by Rockfish9

5/32 aircraft bits bright finish... Unless you drill with a 4 jaw chuck you will need 3" and 6".... Heed the advise of the Professor.. it is spot on...

+2...

[piemma]

Originally Posted by ProfessorM

again this has been talked about for years. As short a drill as you need. As short a flute as you can use. Those fancy smancy drills are a waste of $$$ IMO. Those long drills with long flutes are useless, too flimsy and if you are not backing your drill out every 1/4 to a 1/2 inch you are going to have trouble.The harder the species the more the sawdust, chips, have to be cleared. The wood is not going to flow up the flutes more than an inch, if that, so those long fluted drills are useless. An aircraft drill, which features very short flute length, is perfect for all you will do and come in any length you want. I prefer 5/32 but what dia. you choose will be your preference. The larger the dia. the more stable and rigid the bit, pretty obvious. good luck and use the search too as it has been discussed many times. P.


I am talking thru drilling here

And that my friends is the real secret. You have to back off every 1/4 to 1/2 inch or the bit will walk on you. Even with AYC, which is all I use, I have to back off every 1/2 inch. I was drilling for the past 6 or 7 years with 3/16 and it was a real tiresome process. I have since gone to 1/4 and I have very little walking problems.

[Back Beach]

Originally Posted by piemma

And that my friends is the real secret. You have to back off every 1/4 to 1/2 inch or the bit will walk on you. Even with AYC, which is all I use, I have to back off every 1/2 inch. I was drilling for the past 6 or 7 years with 3/16 and it was a real tiresome process. I have since gone to 1/4 and I have very little walking problems.

WHaaaaaaaat?????? You're making plugs too?

I hope the Bald Eagle doesn't turn on us next.

[piemma]

Originally Posted by Back Beach

WHaaaaaaaat?????? You're making plugs too?

I hope the Bald Eagle doesn't turn on us next.

Mike:
I have been making plugs for about 13 years. Flaptail got me started and I have been spinning wood ever since.

[piemma]

here are a few but my camera ability leaves much to be desired