I see some people don't use a reel seat while surf casting. This is somewhat puzzling to me. What is the reason/advantage of this? Doe the reel loosen? Does the reel spin on the rod after fishing it a while (Tape wear or loosen). Just looking for some answers, I've never seen this before. I don't plan tp try it but it is an interesting
concept.
Maybe I'm just a greenhorn to this but, why would you want to reposition thr reel? Isn't it supposed to line up with the guides? Do you move it up or down the rod? To change the distance from the butt to the center of the reel?
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I'm a tape guy, but then again I'm an old electrician.
I use rubber compound tape first then high end 3m stretchy tape, rock solid.
Only takes me a few minutes, and I can put the reel exactly right on the sweet spot.
I have always felt the reel seat chokes the load up of the blank.
Without it I can feel the flex between my top and bottom hands, It's just what I'm used to.
I got to use a 9 foot legend this fall and the one thing that kept me from buying it was from the ferrule down it was as flexible as a pool cue.
It's just a feel thing for me, makes me think I can cast further.( A spot I fish, that 10 extra yards is all the difference in the world )
I don't know the answer to this, but is that why on some distance casting rods the reel is on the bottom ?
I have multiple rods, but not multiple VS's... reel seat it is... I would prefer each rod have its own reel and be taped, but its not in my near future.
I got to use a 9 foot legend this fall and the one thing that kept me from buying it was from the ferrule down it was as flexible as a pool cue.
I don't know the answer to this, but is that why on some distance casting rods the reel is on the bottom ?
A rod with a zoned action will cast further than a "slow" parabolic action that bends in a nice, even curve tip to butt. A designed for distance rod will be of faster action with a soft tip that transitions into a moderate midsection and then yes, a very stiff butt.
Here is a fast action rod being test cast:
The thing is, zoned action rods need a different casting motion to maximize their performance and for some of the fishing done on the East End there just isn't the luxury of having solid footing and the ability to add rotation.
That means given the tactics that are demanded by your spot the "better casting" rod won't be better casting for you. For open beach work and on a flat jetty and with a refined casting motion, fast "stiff" rods will always outperform a slow action stick. As one's casting skills improve, the use of these slower sticks fade away because they just collapse under higher energy casts.
Of course there is the opinion that slower actions work some lures better, particularly pencils . . .
The primary reasons for low reel mounting in competition casting is for grip on the small baitcaster reels the guys use (typically 5500 Abu's) and unencumbered power application for the top hand. The entire thumb is on the spool in low reel and slippage is eliminated.
I use spinners in casting competition and I cast high reel.
Sometimes in the fall I tape over my reel seat. It is warmer if you are not touching metal.
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Advantages of tapeing:
1. Warmer on the hands (as stated by above)
2. Greater adjustment allowance for using different size/weight reels.
3. Increased sensitivity/feel when plugging/eeling.
4. You'll look like you're old school
Hi Rizzo!
DZ
DZ
Recreational Surfcaster
"Limit Your Kill - Don't Kill Your Limit"
Bi + Ne = SB 2
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I personally don't like my hands wrapped around the reel seat for comfort reasons, especially when it is cold. Graphite seats seem to take care of some of the issue. Some questions.....
I was wondering if anybody has used the "ergonomic" graphite reel seats from Fuji?
Pics of the ergo seats seem to be upside down in the catalog pics, or is it just me?
Also, are the clip on reel seats are a whole lot better on the hands than the normal designs, and are these always taped on?
I personally don't like my hands wrapped around the reel seat for comfort reasons, especially when it is cold. Graphite seats seem to take care of some of the issue. Some questions.....
I was wondering if anybody has used the "ergonomic" graphite reel seats from Fuji?
Pics of the ergo seats seem to be upside down in the catalog pics, or is it just me?
Also, are the clip on reel seats are a whole lot better on the hands than the normal designs, and are these always taped on?
i saw a guy in at the somerville dam holding his rod upside down, and pumping his legs in a strange fashion. maybe that was an ergonomic setup???
off topic......... has anyone seen a plastic reel seat break. i know a lot of guys have steel/ metal reel seats. necessary or overkill?
Old habits die hard. The old metal reel seats often had issues from getting stuck to actually rotting off the rod. To me Fugi took care of all of the old issues so now all of my rods have seats.
Now if you use reels that have a big difference in weight on the same rod you may still need to do this so you don't end up with a tip heavy rod.
This is one of the cool features on the G.Loomis Imx Surf, Its reel seat is adjustable. Im sure you can do this to any custom.
Curious Roy... Is this the same reel seat that's on the Shimano Tiralejo? I have one, and it's much more of a hindrance than a help... Constantly gets loose and requires re-adjusting.
Curious Roy... Is this the same reel seat that's on the Shimano Tiralejo? I have one, and it's much more of a hindrance than a help... Constantly gets loose and requires re-adjusting.
I had no problem with the reel seat while testing it. This is a screw type adjustable seat and not a slide like the Shimano. The only thing I found with this reel seat that could pose a problem to some is the ridges could become discomforting. I normally wear gloves so I had no issues, and even when I didn't it felt fine. The rod it self is very nice and has a very fast action, but seams to really fit as an all round rod able to do a lot. It was amazing with metal and bucktails. It also proved great with plugs and even jigging the canal with as much as a 5oz jig head and rubber. I went with the 1325 11' foot. They only come in a two piece which I really don't mind. I little electrical tape after putting the pieces together and it eliminates all the issues of a two piece IMO. Rod retails for $555 which is up there, but so is everything else now a days it seems. Shimano/Loomis likes to start at the top and work its way down, so we shall see what there mid entry level surf rod will be like if they decide to make one. Its nice to see Loomis back on the seen. I have always been a fan and they will stay US made according to Shimano.
I use plate style because 1) I feel that it allows the blank to flex more completely 2) it gives better sensitivity, and 3) it makes the rod a little lighter. I feel that a collar style seat creates a stiff spot in the blank, just like a ferrule does. As Makai and I fish the same general area, the extra distance is important. And as Rizzo states, the sensitivity issue also factors into my choice - with your hand directly on the blank it transmits every little bump.
AS, I broke a collar style reel seat off of a factory St. Croix Ben Doer (sp?) a few years back. The seat itself didn't break, the epoxy under it holding to the blank let go. I've never had an actual seat come apart. I was happy it happened - the rod is much nicer with the plate style seat.
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I use plate style because 1) I feel that it allows the blank to flex more completely 2) it gives better sensitivity, and 3) it makes the rod a little lighter. I feel that a collar style seat creates a stiff spot in the blank, just like a ferrule does. As Makai and I fish the same general area, the extra distance is important. And as Rizzo states, the sensitivity issue also factors into my choice - with your hand directly on the blank it transmits every little bump.
AS, I broke a collar style reel seat off of a factory St. Croix Ben Doer (sp?) a few years back. The seat itself didn't break, the epoxy under it holding to the blank let go. I've never had an actual seat come apart. I was happy it happened - the rod is much nicer with the plate style seat.
Btw
I broke that 9 ft st croix legend under load right at the ferule, didn't take long.
I'll stick with my customs. Those 20 yr old Arras still get the job done for me.
Just use some dacron and make a loop and pull the line through, wrap tight around the reel's feet and then hold it tight and tape it up. No knots or anything to worry about and she shouldn't move. Change the tape every now and again if you dunk your reel a lot and you shouldn't have problems with tape failure. Don't use the cheap tape either. Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
Back in the days of the backside, I always just thought havin your reel taped on was a badge of a "sharpie". Have tried it and didn't like it simply as sometimes it would almost feel like the reel was going to fall off. And it was a major PIA to change or take reel off to service. Plus made it tough to take reel off when leaving in truck. Would rather have someone thief just the rod rather than rod and reel. I used to use the fuji clips, but since my second hand custom rods all have the twist on reel seats, that is what I use now. Feels very secure when swimming and I have never felt that I loose any sensitivity as opposed to having the reel taped directly to rod. Sense of peace of mind.
To each their own............
I like a graphite reel seat. I often use a dremel tool to sand a bevel on the ridges so its more confortable for me and for some people I build for if they want that.
I have a rod with a taped on reel. Its a very light spinner. Its been that way for many years. I just did it as part of a very quick build long ago before I took up rodbuilding. I just leave it that way now.
I don't like metal seats unless required for strength as with some big game rods. For all surfcasting i like graphite seat.
The only graphite seat I have seen broken is my own on my Canal rod , an XRA 1205. I have written bout falling on it and breaking it.
I have seen several totally rotted aluminum seats. I have also seen many where only the thread area was rotted , which makes getting the reel off very difficult.
Plate seats can be wrapped on with thread and finished or they can be taped on. A lot of people like plate seats if they have smaler hands. I don't like plate seats myself as the reel always seems to have some play to it when a plate seat is used.
Advantages of tapeing:
1. Warmer on the hands (as stated by above)
2. Greater adjustment allowance for using different size/weight reels.
3. Increased sensitivity/feel when plugging/eeling.
4. You'll look like you're old school
Hi Rizzo!
DZ
I thought that was taped on stainles guides???@ Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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