Spiral wrapped rod opinions

[nightfighter]

I like the concept of it. Makes sense to me, but have never fished with one. Considering a spiral boat rod on a 7' E glass blank I have downstairs, mostly fort livelining. Opinions from those who have used them please.......

[ThrowingTimber]

Built myself a 300gram tuna jigging rod acid wrapped I love it! Have only used it for pollock and cod so far but it handles sweetly. It loves the heavier jigs . . The added benefit is not having to fight the conventional reel to stay in position as under load it just sort of rocks into place then just settles in for the duration of the fight. I'm running an accurate 2 speed reel for jigging so its not light.

I would say if the reel you are using for your live lining is a heavier reel. Say one of the tank Abu 7000's big games then you would notice the benefit.
My suggestion to you would be to get your reel seated where you find it comfortable. Then lay the guides out in a standard conventional configuration and as you go through your deflection tests make notes or better yet setup a jig load and take pictures for comparison. Then setup your guides in an acid wrap layout and see how they compare. Just taping on the guides should suffice for your testing. You will not notice the subtle benefits of the acid/spiral wrapped rod until under a relatively good sized load.
If you do go with one of the softer glass blanks make sure your "bumper" guide on the acid wrap pushes your line away from the blank sufficiently. Ie. test the crap out of it. Testing with a 2 pound load will not realistically portray what you are goin to load the blank with so test accordingly. You dot want to end up to close or rubbing the blank.
Finally hooking moby, and having her saw through your blank would be... No fun. If you want to take my jigging rod for a spin or want to talk a bit about it give me a call man
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[paradoxjim]

Once you go spiral, you'll never go back! I built a standup rod spiral and loaned it out to a charter boat. The captain and his fares love it! All of my conventionals are now spiraled, from the light fluke rods to tuna standup gear. I have a matched pair of wire line outfits, one spiral and one not. Anyone that fishes the 2 rods side by side picks the spiral wrapped rod as the better rod to catch fish on.

Wrap it right Like TT suggests, and you'll have a new favorite.

[zimmy]

Without a doubt wrap it spiral, especially for those purposes. I even wrapped an all star 1208 in spiral for my dad to throw metal and light bait with and it casts easily as well as pretty much any other setup for a conventional. Fish fighting is much nicer.

[JFigliuolo]

only way I wrap conv yak/boat rods. I see absolutely no downside. For a distance heaver i COULD see an argument against.

[MAKAI]

Hmmmm..... me thinks I may want to re-wrap my Terez.
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[Saltheart]

Yes that is a good way to go for what you are considering. You need to be careful of the first 3 or 4 guides (depending on the spiral degrees you choose). In addintion to the ones that bring the line around to the bottom , you need to consider where you will put the first guide from the reel. Many start the spiral with guide 1. I think that is a mistake. If anything you want guide pone to be turned just a little opposite of the direction the rest of them spiral. If you are not careful with guide 1 you will end up with an uneven build up of line on your reel. Depending on the rod , I think angles like -20 to -30 , 45 , 90 , 135 then 180 work well. Also some go ) , 60 , 120 , 180. This is tricky as TT has pointed out. Try a few layouts before you wrap them on permanently.

[JohnnyD]

Originally Posted by MAKAI

Hmmmm..... me thinks I may want to re-wrap my Terez.
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You old fogies laughed at me and dismissed the suggestion the times I've brought up spiral-wrapped rods the last couple years.

[MAKAI]

The old always laugh at the young. When you smell like geezer you will do the same.

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[stripermaineiac]

Send an email to the blank maker and ask ist if the blank will take being spiral wrapped. Not all blanks will take being done that way an will twist if not made to take that type of build. Ron

[Stewie]

I jigged for hours with a rod that a friend had built. It was about a ten foot surf rod. I was walking down the access road and noticed that it was acid wrapped. I never noticed it while fishing. Later I tried an acid wrapped heaver. It didn't like the leader knot much. I don't think I would build one that I would need a shock leader on, but for anything else, why not?

[zimmy]

if you aren't familiar with it, look into the bumper wrap method. it is easy and works. rod maker mag did an article on it. you might find it on rodbuilding.org.
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[nightfighter]

Since I use lefty conventionals, the plan is to spiral to the right so my thumb can guide the line across the spool.

[beamie]

Originally Posted by nightfighter

Since I use lefty conventionals, the plan is to spiral to the right so my thumb can guide the line across the spool.

Fine idea, it is easy, you can turn it either way. i just finished up a 7' Seeker CLB706, 15-25lb it is pissa. Just 2 transition guides. 0, 60, 120, 180 and runners to the tip. When you lay it out hang the max drag weight on it. Boat rod I am assuming 20-40 ...work up to hanging 7.5 pounds from it.

I disagree with what Ron said. I don't see why any blank can't be acid wrapped as long as it is built on the spine properly.

I just started to do a Stand up Calstar Boomer Jr 50-100 blank, and yes this will be acid too!!!

[chefchris401]

This is a good video, gets the point across


Local Hooker Rods - YouTube



My buddy has built to bait rod from cut down lamis spiral wrapped for chunking, he's using an avet 5.3mc, awesome distance and great fighting power.

I'm building a 9'6" century spiral wrap for an avet or something similiar, to use for light plug and bait fishing.

It's a great system especially for jigging and boat use
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[JFigliuolo]

Originally Posted by nightfighter

Since I use lefty conventionals, the plan is to spiral to the right so my thumb can guide the line across the spool.

MIGHT want to rethink that. I also go lefty. I wrap to the left so the line goes away from my right hand if it's on the fore grip pulling.

Others do as you plan, actaully having the line stack to the close side of the real, so they only need to push the line w/their thumb. Both work, just personal preference.

[JFigliuolo]

Originally Posted by stripermaineiac

Send an email to the blank maker and ask ist if the blank will take being spiral wrapped. Not all blanks will take being done that way an will twist if not made to take that type of build. Ron

You know WAY wore than me, and I respect our opinion.
But I've read, and believe, a properly wrapped acid job will not torque the blank. looking at the rods I've done under load, the line applies very little torque.

I wrap simple spirals, 1 bumper.

[zimmy]

Originally Posted by JFigliuolo

You know WAY wore than me, and I respect our opinion.
But I've read, and believe, a properly wrapped acid job will not torque the blank. looking at the rods I've done under load, the line applies very little torque.

I wrap simple spirals, 1 bumper.

There actually should be much less torque on the blank in the spiral wrap, which is why it eliminates the tendency of the reel to roll when fighting a fish.

[FishNH]

I see a need for it when fishing for bigger fish like tuna, etc and or deep water applications i.e tilefish. But for tog, fluke, etc there not a fish big enough to put any real torque on a rod.

[Saltheart]

If you put the first guide at 0 or at a negative angle as I suggested , then your hand on the foregrip should be under the line just like it would be if it were not a spiral wrap. My suggestion to go slightly negative with guide one is so the inside edge of the first guide is aligned with the center of the reel. This is nbeeded because whatever side you spiral to , the second guide will cause the line to always ride the edge of the first guide , not back and forth across the center of the guide like a normal set up.

Now many use levelwinds too and that is the case where I think offsetting the first guide a little negative is more important. If yopu are steering the line with your thumb you can keep it even but you better pay attention cause ven then it will want to stack up on the reel on the side you spiral towards.

lastly , I prefer to spiral away from the reel crank.

[beamie]

Originally Posted by Saltheart

If you put the first guide at 0 or at a negative angle as I suggested , then your hand on the foregrip should be under the line just like it would be if it were not a spiral wrap. My suggestion to go slightly negative with guide one is so the inside edge of the first guide is aligned with the center of the reel. This is nbeeded because whatever side you spiral to , the second guide will cause the line to always ride the edge of the first guide , not back and forth across the center of the guide like a normal set up.

Now many use levelwinds too and that is the case where I think offsetting the first guide a little negative is more important. If yopu are steering the line with your thumb you can keep it even but you better pay attention cause ven then it will want to stack up on the reel on the side you spiral towards.

lastly , I prefer to spiral away from the reel crank.

Saltheart,

Can totally see your point of view here with #1 to the neg and probably works excellent. I have never seen a build yet with the first guide in the negative. I prefer 0 as many times on a boat sytle rod the ring isn't too big. The last I did was a size 16, so you're talking 8mm of "play"....and I guess looks a bit less odd.

I have seen some where the first guide was slightly to the positive which I don't agree with, this just adds to the concept that your trying not to happen.

[Saltheart]

Most go 0. When I say negative though its just a little and does depend on the size of that first guide. With a 16 size guide ring , my guess is the neg offset is only 10 to 15 degrees and I agree may do little or nothing.

[stripermaineiac]

Food for thought. If all blanks were made to be wrapped an use in all ways then there would only be a few blanks that needed to be made.design in blanks takes a lot into consideration. I've been lucky enough over the years to see an help in the process.thats why I say it is good caution to check ist.Trust me I've made just about every mistake you can make building over time. Heavy blanks take a lot. Lighter designed ones don't do so well when the envelope is pushed .I've built a few of these rods way back before it had a fancy name to it and found them to work well. Like anything there is a place for them but the benefits sometimes aren't worth the time in trial an error to get the propper layout to fit the rod. There really isn't a text book answer as far as whats best.Enjoy playin with it but try a few taped on set-ups before your final wrap. Then for the heck of it tape the guides on normal an see if you can feel or see a difference.Have fun with it.Nice part of rod building is the journey in the learning. Ron

[inTHERAPY]

Originally Posted by beamie

Fine idea, it is easy, you can turn it either way. i just finished up a 7' Seeker CLB706, 15-25lb it is pissa. Just 2 transition guides. 0, 60, 120, 180 and runners to the tip. When you lay it out hang the max drag weight on it. Boat rod I am assuming 20-40 ...work up to hanging 7.5 pounds from it.

I disagree with what Ron said. I don't see why any blank can't be acid wrapped as long as it is built on the spine properly.

I just started to do a Stand up Calstar Boomer Jr 50-100 blank, and yes this will be acid too!!!

i have acid wrapped clb708 and find it to be a great livelining rod. i have the 706 on my mind for a heavy tog rod