Tacky Primer

[NIB]

On another note I'm so tired of sealin an waiting, an friggin epoxy finishes. I'm just gonna go back to prime ,paint an some kinda clear outa the can an trashem when the start to soak up too much water.

[basswipe]

I'm curious.I've painted every wood known to man for more years than I care to count and am wondering why would you seal the wood with boiled linseed oil?Whether used straight or cut with pure gum tupentine its cure(not dry) time takes forever.Plus primer/paint just doesn't last as long as it could when put over it.For that matter pigmented coatings really aren't meant to be put over it anyway.

Why not just eliminate that step and seal with a quick dry oil base primer like Zinnser CoverStain cut thinly with High Flash naptha.Regular VM&P naptha can be used but with the HF naptha it dries in 5mins and can be sanded 10-15 mins after that.After that use the same primer cut just enough with HF naptha to make it sprayable sand again and proceed as you normally would.Any paint can be applied over CoverStain and it can be tinted.

Massive time saver eliminating the linseed oil and going straight to the primer
cut with HF naptha.

[markm]

I'm relatively new to plug building and enjoy this particular forum very much. I have started to seal my plugs using Zinsser SealCoat, which is a de-waxed shellac sanding sealer. "De-waxed" is the key here. Contrary to what you may have heard, Shellac is actually one of the most robust and best sealers for wood. Most regular shellac does have some naturally occuring wax content, which can be a problem when putting on top coats of paint or clear. The beauty of this sealar is that it dries in about fifteen minutes. I usually dip three successive coats. Another nice property of shellac, in general, is that each new coat completey bonds to the previous coats because the solvent alcohol partially dissolves the previous coat. Also there is no spontaneous combustion risk. You can apply SealCoat under or over any clear coat. In furniture finishing de-waxed shellac is often used before applying a top coat of varnish or urathane.

[capesams]

But i don't float my funiture in saltwater?? well! kinda...just pullin your leg...I was told by a well known com. plug maker if he was just making home made's, that's what he'd look into to use as a sealer.

[markm]

Originally Posted by capesams

But i don't float my funiture in saltwater?? well! kinda...just pullin your leg...I was told by a well known com. plug maker if he was just making home made's, that's what he'd look into to use as a sealer.

Just don't spill your Vodka on the plug until the top coats are on!

[justplugit]

MarkM, what are you using for a primer over the Zinsser sealer.?

[Krispy]

Just leave a bunch of primer sealed, epoxy sealed, shellac sealed plugs in the ocean 3-4 times. See what happens. You gotta seal properly!
Why go thru all the work of building plugs, just to have them split after a few uses?
Do it once, do it right

[justplugit]

Hey Capesams, now that we're on the sealer topic again, do you see any disadvantages in using an oil/urethane base sealer.

Your not known as the "Paintmeister" for nothin ya no.

[justplugit]

MarkM thanks. Being the seal coat is a zinsser product, have you tried their bin spray as a primer? Has no wax in it either.

[markm]

Originally Posted by justplugit

MarkM, what are you using for a primer over the Zinsser sealer.?

White water based primer. Initially I used Creatix opaque white. Now I'm using Createx Auto Air white primer, which is very nice. It dries quickly and further seals the plug.

[gone fishin]

I use Zinsser cover stain oil base primer sealer. I cut it to 60/40 and put the mix in a gallon pickle jug. Dunk about 5 plugs at a time and let them soak for about a cold one! Dig em out and hang them to drip dry. That seals not only the outside, but the inside gets soaked also. I let them dry as long as it takes (usually this is about a couple of hours and they can be handled).

By the way, I do all drilling for weights and hooks before doing any sealing.

A light sanding is all that is required before the finish is applied. After finishing with createx paints a final epoxy finish is applied.

As a side note: I really don't expect a plug to last more than one season. If you get into blues, you are lucky to have the finish one hour. I think Bassmaster was the one who brags about his plugs when they are chewed to hell, and I would have to agree with that philosophy!!