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Sand the oak down to bare wood. If you don't have the machinery ask a finisher if he'll give you a price for the prep only. you will be able to coat the floor yourself no problem.
Since its oak it might only need to machined to 80 grit. maybe 40 and then 80 on the machine and then buff or orbit the floor with hundred after. Make sure the edging doesn't have tons of swirls.
Then do one coat of the sealer (it can be the marine sealer. it will be cheaper by the gallon) You shouldn't have a problem getting 400-550 sq per gallon. Use a 10" lambs wool in a five gallon bucket. Unscrew the handle from the lambswool block and leave it in the remaining sealer. puyllm a plastic garbage bad over the pail overnight.
Let dry overnight and then hand sand with 220. You can even use a pole sander. Vaxumn real good and add more sealer to the bucket. coat again.
repeat until you acheive what looks right. Usually it takes 5 coats but it is acceptable with 4. Be liberal with the application and remember to tip everytjing off and it will look great. I prefer the satin because it is heavier. If you choose satin turn the cans over the night before you will use them. In the morning shake them as norm al and it will be fine. The flattening agent sinks to the bottom of the can if they sit for a whilr and it is really hard to mix with a paint stick. Turned over it releases into the can in about 12 hours or so. If you don't do this you will get flashing with the satin.
oh yea. This stuff is strong. you may want to try the low voc version. your eyes will be burning if you take to long coating. remember to have a plan and stick to it when coating with oils. don't waste time. I use 6" stain brushes so the vutting goes quick
good luck
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capesams!
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