|
I generaly give each step at least 24 hours cure time, as long as I do not breakl this rule, I havenever had an issue... the last time I did, I was rewared with a bunch of snake skins ( peeled e-tex)..
For paint, I usemostly Delta Ceramacoat, a 50/50 mixtue works well for me, I put a 1" piece of tape onthe bottom of the jars and fill with water to the line, top off with paint and shake like hell...
for air brushes, I have 4, a Badger 175 that is a great gun and will spray gravel as long as you dont bend the tip (which I do often) I use it exclusivly for spraying all my pearlized paints... I have a badger 150 that I call the spitter... I rarely use it.. I have a pair of Iwta, top feed.. I cant say enough about them.. bullet proof IMHO... I spray most paint at 35psi from a 17 gallon compressor ( over kill but it never runs once the tank is full) I have water twps in line and coelesing disposable filters on each line.. again over kill, but I never have issues either...
so after an over night cure, I now apply a coat of white, I like Ivory or antique white... this gives the following coats a base and and still gives me one more chance to see any imperfections I dont like...
after the white has dries, I give the belly two coats of pearlized paint ( Delta gleams) when that has dried, I then layer my colors...
after an overnight cure, I like to clear coat, I've tried many options, some were good, some melted away good paint jobs, back in the day before I epoxied ( thanks to the internet) I used lacquer as a clear... last year I went back to my roots, the lacquer gives a nice protectin to the plug should I drop it prior to epoxing, at first I was afraid of it reacting with the paint but I've never had a problem, it make s the paint very hard, almost chip proof....
|
Threaded Mode