I've seen Riding Giants probably 2 or 3 dozen times - that one wave is still the most incredible display of Nature's force I've ever seen - on top of the fact that he actually dropped in on it...
I still like Greg Noll's comment best - if there's one guy that oughta know, it's him
Laird at Teahupo, Tahiti:
Crafty--
You hit the nail on the head--a force of nature--that's what I find so intriguing about surfing--jump on this mass, this swell of energy and smile.
You surf??
I just got a 9'2" Stewart Hydrohull, really liking it.
Threaded Mode