offset taper spacing

[ThrowingTimber]

Originally Posted by BigBlue

I'm just about ready to start my first diamond wrap, and I have a few questions about the spread sheet that TT posted. On the calculations for the Zero Axis and the 180 Axis there are two rows of numbers. Would the numbers on row 5 for the 0 Axis and the numbers on row 10 for the 180 Axis, and vise vera depending on where I want my squares to show? Or, do I mark all the number listed in rows 5 & 6 for the zero Axis, and all the numbers listed in rows 10 & 11 for the 180 Axis.

Sorry for asking such a stupid question, but this is my first time doing this.

big blue. if its just a simple diamond you can just take a piece of thread size D you want something thick and just make for example 1 inch spaces, just mark them with a sharpie on the thread. Take a second length of size D and mark spaces half the distance of your first thread to go with the example mark 1/2" spaces. 1 thread goes on the 0 degree and the other goes on the 180 degree. Get a few wraps down to serve as a guide and pull the "measurement threads #^&#^&#^&#^& You really dont have to get too involved with offset taper spacing etc for simple diamonds.

[paradoxjim]

I compared the results from the Excel spreadsheet against a simple program that I've used for years called "Wrapped Right." Wrapped Right is a DOS based program that I bought many years ago from Clemens that has served me well over the years. The results were comparable between Wrapped Right and the spreadsheet. As someone noted, it really comes down to how accurate you can be in measuring those marks out on the blank. Tenths of a millimeter get difficul for these old eyes!

[Saltheart]

Originally Posted by paradoxjim

I compared the results from the Excel spreadsheet against a simple program that I've used for years called "Wrapped Right." Wrapped Right is a DOS based program that I bought many years ago from Clemens that has served me well over the years. The results were comparable between Wrapped Right and the spreadsheet. As someone noted, it really comes down to how accurate you can be in measuring those marks out on the blank. Tenths of a millimeter get difficul for these old eyes!

Yep , sometimes the dots you make to mark the spots are bigger than the difference ebtween the spot lenghs if its a gradual taper.

In reality , the whole thing should not be done in units of inches or mm. it should all be done in thread diameters since being able to get the right number of threads in to fill the patterns at both ends is why you do it.