Alternative to Korkers...

[agsurfr]

I have a pair of Cabelas lightweight boots--felt soles w/places to screw in studs. I put Wearbars in and they're holding up well. You would think the boots are too clunky to swim in, but I manage OK. I also have a pair of Korker Torrents and a pair of the original lace on sandal types. I like the Cabelas modified w/Wearbars the best of the 3.

[achase]

Guys,
Need to ask for more insight, especially from those who like ivanputski used epoxy on their wearbars.
I re-did my wearbars using the washers and used marine epoxy on the threads. Here's my question.
Did those of you who did this find that the epoxy "greased" the threads so that they wanted to keep spinning even after the screw was fully embedded?
The first time I put my wearbars in without epoxy they grabbed the felt and when fully sunk in became completely tight. Even after a few weeks of hard wear when some studs loosened a little, I could screw them back in tightly.
When I re-did them today I drilled them into virgin felt but with the epoxy they still spun after being fully threaded. I'm hoping once they're fully cured that they'll hold fast but I'm a little concerned.
What say you??
Thanks,
Andrew

[JohnR]

Andrew - could be that you drilled too wide of the stud shank? Is it spinning after the epoxy dried was removed? Which epoxy are you using?

[pbadad]

Guys, are you buying the 1/2" threaded studs? If you have thick boot sole , go to the 3/4" thread length. You appreciate the extra length when putting them in a virgin felt sole w/o a thread receptable. They may be a hair long for the receptable holes. Just touch them with a grinder about1/8". I did mine as most of you have read in the past w/3/4" w/o grinding first. Only a few made it barely through. With the addition of washers the added length is key. You can always make them shorter but you can't add length. On the subject of length, does Wearbar make a longer stud. There have been times that the 3/8" exposed length isn't enough to grip weed and secure your footing when a wave washes over. I would like a 1/2" external protrusion. The receptable for the studs are recessed. This makes the external stud exposure less than it is. They remain the length with the plain felt sole installation.

[achase]

John,
I'm not drilling, I'm screwing the wearbars directly into the Korkers felt soles. The epoxy isn't dry yet so I don't know if they'll have more staying power than before. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive.
Billy,
I think going with the 3/4" stud might be the way to go. I should have done a test-run with a plain screw before deciding on length.
I know these things are expensive but if the longer ones work it'll be worth it.
Has anyone tried using the Korkers lug sole as opposed to the felt for screwing into? The ones that come w/ the Cross-Current and Guide Boot?

BTW, with all the above said, the boots with studs is a HUGE improvement over wearing Korkers sandals over boots without studs. It just needs tweaking.

Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Andrew

[Liv2Fish]

Originally Posted by achase

John,
I'm not drilling, I'm screwing the wearbars directly into the Korkers felt soles. The epoxy isn't dry yet so I don't know if they'll have more staying power than before. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive.
Billy,
I think going with the 3/4" stud might be the way to go. I should have done a test-run with a plain screw before deciding on length.
I know these things are expensive but if the longer ones work it'll be worth it.
Has anyone tried using the Korkers lug sole as opposed to the felt for screwing into? The ones that come w/ the Cross-Current and Guide Boot?

BTW, with all the above said, the boots with studs is a HUGE improvement over wearing Korkers sandals over boots without studs. It just needs tweaking.

Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Andrew

I'm getting ready to load my new ultralights and was wondering how the epoxy worked out? Did it help?

[chefchris401]

I used epoxy on mine and had the same issue with them spinning until they were completey dry.

I re did a few with clear locite plumbers epoxy and that seemed to work better.

I have lost a few studs but I'm a big guy, 275 with all my gear and most of my spots require a long walk so I expect to Lose a few.

The studs grip to everything! I fished some of the most angled rocks ever on a recent trip and the boots kept me locked down.

There overkill in some areas but I like having them when I need them. Some of my rocks have an inch of growth on them and not weeds but baby barnacles and sea life, the boots just cut right through it.

As far as swimming in them, not an issue, they do seem heavier when you take them off and there soaked but I did some long swims out on block and was fine, didn't notice the added weight.

Still a million times better than anything korker makes! there stuff is 
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[FishnGrega]

I recently bought a new pair of boots to replace my Cross Currents that lasted roughly 2 years. After countless amounts of shoe glue to keep them together I threw in the towel and purchased a pair of Cabelas Guidewear boots, and wearbars.

The style of these boots are very similar to the Chota's for less money.


Here's the laundry list of supplies that I used for the install
Devcon- Marine epoxy
16-1/2" wearbars
SS-star washers



I installed the studs in between the lugs just as a preference rather than on the lugs themselves.

I didn't have an particular pattern for the studs I just wanted to have them spaced out evenly throughout the toe and heel.

In a few months I'll give them a test run hopefully with good results.

[bart]

Has anyone noticed the old school korkers run a little smaller than they used to? An XL korker 5000 doesn't fit a size 13 foot boot anymore(before they used to fit perfectly). Anyone notice if the new lace-ups are running on the small side as well? Thanks...

[chefchris401]

for anyone who cares the ultralights with 24 wearbars on each foot weigh 29oz each, or 3lbs 10oz per pair.

This is the dry weight of the boots.

I have the boots soaking right now and will post a wet weight in a little while.

[chefchris401]

wet weight per boot is 2.5lbs, or 40oz each.

i soaked them for 2 hours, which is like fishing, usually my feet are always submerged, then i let them hang upside down for about a half hour to simulate walking.

So in total there about 5 pound give or take on your feet when there wet, also mine are a size 12.

[Rob Rockcrawler]

I have not weighted a pair of Korkers 5000's but that's probably the weight of them alone.

[GattaFish]

Like cement shoes....
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[ivanputski]

Losing the k-5000's and switching to wearbars made such an incredible difference... I cant believe that I used to walk miles with those frankenstein boots... Clumsy and heavy as hell.

Just wish that the screw-in idea could be improved by a manufacturer, since the draw-back of wearbars is the squishy-feel that comes from them leaning and moving at times... I usually have to hand-tighten half a dozen before every outing, but even with their downsides, they are WAY better than korkers!

[Redsoxticket]

In regards to epoxy does it matter if is regular epoxy and not marine.
I don't think there is a difference for this application, what say you.
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[ivanputski]

I am going to try marine... regular epoxy didnt do well for me... it gets brittle and cracks after outings in the salt. A slightly flexible adhesive would actually be the ideal solution

[Liv2Fish]

Originally Posted by ivanputski

I am going to try marine... regular epoxy didnt do well for me... it gets brittle and cracks after outings in the salt. A slightly flexible adhesive would actually be the ideal solution

Try 5200 marine adhesive. You can get it at any store that sells boat stuff. It stays flexible and is permanent on porous surfaces.

[GattaFish]

I bet a waterproof, flexible, sticks to rubber, sticks to metal adhesive would be the ticket.....


Hmmmm,,,
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[ivanputski]

Hey Gatta... are these the spikes you were looking into? Called "Grip studs"... I was looking at these last winter, but didnt buy them... They have a much wider thread, which should translate to much less leaning from walking. anyone try them? I really think I might try these...



Wader Boots

[Rob Rockcrawler]

Funny thing about this thread. It gets me really pumped for fishing for some reason.

[ivanputski]

Thanks... I read up on the 5200, and that seems to be a great option... Flexibility while maintaining adhesion is the key to keeping the wearbars in place and to prevent loosening over time.
The marine epoxy I used in the past was too rigid, and eventually just cracks.
Even though I dip the entire thread in the adhesive prior to screwing in the spike, only a very small amount actually stays on the thread, since the felt or rubber sole acts as a squeegy as the threads enter the sole... but Every little bit counts.

NOW... question is, do I run out and buy new rubber sole boots for 2012 because RI DEM officers have difficulty distinguishing the difference between fresh and salt water??? Maybe when they wear out... but for now, go jump in a lake... or an ocean... or any brackish water. "Ease of enforcement"... what a joke. If you dont know the difference, you're not qualified for the job, Period.

[Liv2Fish]

Originally Posted by ivanputski

Thanks... I read up on the 5200, and that seems to be a great option... Flexibility while maintaining adhesion is the key to keeping the wearbars in place and to prevent loosening over time.
The marine epoxy I used in the past was too rigid, and eventually just cracks.
Even though I dip the entire thread in the adhesive prior to screwing in the spike, only a very small amount actually stays on the thread, since the felt or rubber sole acts as a squeegy as the threads enter the sole... but Every little bit counts.

NOW... question is, do I run out and buy new rubber sole boots for 2012 because RI DEM officers have difficulty distinguishing the difference between fresh and salt water??? Maybe when they wear out... but for now, go jump in a lake... or an ocean... or any brackish water...

Try filling the hole with the adhesive and coating the threads. This will insure that adhesive is forced into the felt.

I fish mostly in mass so I don't have to worry about the felt ban yet. Though I do plan to venture down into RI this year. Let me know if you go rubber and how it works out with the 5200. May need to get a pair of rubbas too.

[GattaFish]

I will be trying them this year. I have some concerns on the length of the stud and if they will roll over.

Time will tell.
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[Redsoxticket]

Idea.

Solder or weld the washer to the wearbar. Then apply epoxy to both the treads and backside of the washer before screw down.

[FishnGrega]

Originally Posted by ivanputski

Hey Gatta... are these the spikes you were looking into? Called "Grip studs"... I was looking at these last winter, but didnt buy them... They have a much wider thread, which should translate to much less leaning from walking. anyone try them? I really think I might try these...



Wader Boots

Originally Posted by Liv2Fish

After one season, here's my review.

These were not so good in a soft rubber application. They don't' fall out but they compress into the soft rubber, such as muck boot bottom waders. They definitely provided enough grip to continue to mess with safely. I never tried them in my the cabbalas ultralights.

In a hard sole, they were great, but I couldn't find any hard sole shoe that worked well for a surf application. I tried them in an old pair of leather, low top, work boots. You couldn't beat the grip and hold but they felt like bricks, once they got wet. May be ok for the ditch if you don't' get them wet...All in all, the ware bars are far superior.

I must say I was a little disappointed with the size of these studs. I originally bought these as an alternative to the wearbars. They didn't seem like they would be a good option for the bubbleweed rocks that I'm constantly climbing onto. they just didn't have the length I was looking for. That being said I threw them into my Beans bootfoots for my adventures up to the ditch.

I did look around on their website and they have a ton of studs for different applications, the ones that seem like they'd be killer were the studs that they install in MotoX bikes. Same concept as the #3000 just much longer.

That being said I went and bought the wearbars, and I really can't wait to dig in with these babies!

[Thumper]

#1800R is the closest stud grip size compared to wearbars. The stud will penetrate your boot 0.64in and will have 0.31in of a stud exposed. Compared to wear bars that have 0.5in penetration and 0.375in exposed. The only obvious problem is how thick you sole is.

[Ian]

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has an updated review of the Grip Studs solution. Specifically interested in their longevity in rubber soles both soft and hard.
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[FishnGrega]

Originally Posted by Scratch59

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has an updated review of the Grip Studs solution. Specifically interested in their longevity in rubber soles both soft and hard.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

After a season in my bootfoot waders, they did lean over. The sole is soft so some of them even pushed into the sole. On the plus side they never came out.

When trying to relocate them to another spot on the boot it was a pain in the a$$ to get the tool to stay put in the studs grooves.

[BatesBCheatin]

I highly recommend the Korkers Redside rev. 3. I wore them all season and they are light and tough. So much lighter and easy to maneuver in than my old Cabelas' UL 2 in combo with the modded Korker 1100s. They also dry fast unlike the Cabelas.

I wore them on the bubble weeded rocks, on the soft sand, and on the jetty. Never once did I have a prob with the sole coming off and I used them close to 200 hours. I've read where some had problems with these boots around muddy areas, and although I don't regularly hit mud flats, I've walked though them w/o any issues. I believe Korkers corrected that problem with the new revision in 2012. They stuck with the same revision for 2013.

I used the studded rubber soles for the real slippery rocks and weed. The regular felt for everywhere else. The stock rubber soles are useless anywhere near any rocky or wet surface IMO. It takes about 30 seconds to change a sole out. My personal 'product of the year'.