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Go Back   Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating » Build Stuff: Custom Plug & Lure Building, Rod Building » Rod Building

Rod Building So, you've landed a nice fish on a plug you made, eh? Now, the next step, building your own RODS!

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Old 12-18-2008, 03:20 PM   #1
The Dad Fisherman
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Removing Guides...

How would you go about removing guides from a rod.....had the rod snap in 1/2 and wanted to remove the guides and use them on a rod I have that needs to have the guides replaced.....any tricks to doing this

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Old 12-18-2008, 03:39 PM   #2
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That's easier than removing broken guides, because you can use the dremel to cut through the epoxy and thread 90 degrees to the guide feet, and peel up the sides from the cuts. I say easier since you are not worried about damaging the blank while making the cut.

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Old 12-18-2008, 03:44 PM   #3
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I'm assuming I could also do that on the one I'm going to put them onto also...just be gentle.

any solvents or anything that I would need to use to clean up the good blank to get it ready for the new guides?

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Old 12-18-2008, 03:51 PM   #4
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Others prolly have a better solution, but I have just hit the epoxy with a razor blade until I am through it and the threads. I have a fear of the dremel digging in an gouging the blank. After guide and most of threa i off, I use the razor blade to remove the residual epoxy above and below where the thread wrapping was, then AAAA steel wool or very fine scotch pad, so as not to go through the blank's original finish. Sometimes I do that though.

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Old 12-18-2008, 06:35 PM   #5
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I cut off guides (slice along one side of each foot on a tangent to the blank then push the guide over sideways) with a razor blade, unwind any thread left on the blank (which will take the overlying epoxy with it), then soften any epoxy left on the blank with a heat gun (got the idea from the Fuji website) and it will peel right off. The melting point of the epoxy is way below that of the blank, just don't go nuts. It is also a very good way to remove the mounting under a reel seat once you cut the seat off with a dremel.
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:26 PM   #6
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PLEASE do not use a Dremel tool to remove guides! as suggested use a razor knife or blade lay it almost flat on top of the guide foot cutting toward the guide. Remove the old finish and thread ,remove guide and you can pick or unwind the old thread. then scrape old finish off with a Plastic knife or or old credit card. Be care full with heat. Do not over heat the blank
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:41 PM   #7
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I was only suggesting using the dremel on the broken rod from which he was salvaging the guides.....

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Old 12-19-2008, 03:09 PM   #8
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If you were going to do over the rod that you are stripping guides from it can be a very touchy job. Since you are tossing the blank I wouldn't worry about it. A suggestion though and that is to practice on the broken blank as if it were going to be reused, and that way if you ever need to strip a blank in the future you'll be good to go.

I usually use a four inch wide razor scraper. They are sold for stripping wallpaper and other stuff. You can get a good strong grip with it though, so that the blade will run along the blank just under the epoxy covering the guides at an angle which makes quick work of the task. You can take just a little or as you gain more experience more by creating more inward pressure on the tool. Then lightly scrape or sand (600 grit, wet) the residue with a new blade until the blank is smooth.

Last edited by Swimmer; 01-01-2009 at 12:21 PM..

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Old 12-27-2008, 10:26 AM   #9
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the Dremel would probably damage the guide feet. Guess I missed the part about the Rod being Broken. sorry
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:21 PM   #10
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I like to be very careful and just use a razor to cut the very end of the wrap then I unwrap the thread. this peels everything off nicely with no chance of hitting the blank. After unwrapping , there will be some epoxy still attached to the blank. this is primarily epoxy that soaked through the thread. I scrap this suff then sand it lightly. If the new guide is going on in the same place , you can just get the spot smooth. If the location will change , you have to clean all the old epoxy off the old spot and repaint if you can't get it perfectly clean with solvents. i don't use heat but a little carefully applied can help. Don't over heat anything..

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