Spray On Polyuerethane!

[Wishinfishin]

Jumping in late on this but trying to play catch up...Was a member but my home system crapped out 1 year ago and I just got ballsy enough to log in on a work system....

I have not made any plugs but this winter planning to...In my earlier life I worked on Hardwood floors....we used to use sanding sealer and 3 coats of oil based urathanes to finish the floors. Yeah it yellowed over the years but very durable. We also used moisture-cure (gets yeah REAL HIGH ,even with a respirator..zylene based) for kitchen or high traffic areas if the customer requested it....non yellowing, hard as a rock and quick drying....I believe it was banned in a few states.....

Why not use oil based floor finishes for sealing and for top coats if oil paints are used fo color and detail? Aslo could stain the wood with a ebony stain ( MINWAX no bloching) and float black or purple oil paint in thte urathane....

Once again I have not made any plugs yet....

[justplugit]

CS, i know what your saying and agree oil to oil to oil.Do you have any opinion, or experience with, --seal with oil--paint with water base-seal with waterbourne urethane. Sounds good but what do you think except for possible yellowing?Thanks Steve

[thefishingfreak]

waterbourne urethane?
dosn't exist.

[capesams]

the only thing I can say is when I was using acrylic paints and puting a oil clear coat on , it was going to peel as soon as the surface was compromised.....

now I tryed using acrylic clear coat cause I was using acrylic paint...guess what, it lasted just as long as the oil clear...I faced the fact that no plug was going to last an that was all there was to it.

oil sealer......acrylic paint....an some sort of 2 part waterborne clear coat should work fine,,,,,,,,,,,,just understand that where I fish there's only water and sand,,no rocks....so I can't say it'll hold up to any rock bashing.....the ONLY thing thats etched in stone that I know of is auto paint a clear coat, but we know a basement builder isn't going to go that route.

[justplugit]

Thanks Steve,i've seen your plugs and the finish is awesome.Oil rulesNo doubt about it. OIL_OIL _OIL is the way to go.I know that an oil primer followed by latex is one way to go,and it would be nice to continue with a urethane water base finish.over the latex.If the stuff is not too $$ and i can get it in small quanities i will give it a try o ver the winter.

TFF,i never knew there was such a thing either as water base urethane ,but after doing a web search i found this product called Pro-Coat Milllenium which they claim is a clear self leveling 100% watrebourne urethane for flooring.Don't know how it would hold up over paint? Claims and reality can be two different things.What is yor gut feeling?
Dave

[Water Treater]

Here's some advice from a guy who has maintained a custom built wooden boat for the past 19 seasons and back in the 1960's helped his father maintain a series of wooden boats:

(1) Buy wood finishing supplies from a knowledgeable firm like Jamestown Distributors, Inc. in Jamestown, RI. Their printed catalog is very educational. Request a copy. Can now order on-line at www.jamestowndistributors.com Forget Home Depot. The only thing I buy at Home Depot is bags of shop rags. Home Depot sells low quality stuff at low prices. If you're going to spend precious time making fishing lures by hand, finish (coat) them using the right materials.

(2) Don't even think about using anything water based on a wooden lure. Use only oil based primers, paints, varnishes, etc. I use EPIFANES oil based varnish and ZINSSER, INTERLUX and Z-SPAR brands oil based marine paints and primers on my boat. You won't go wrong using oil based marine paint on wooden plugs.

(3) I've had good success using a lead-based enamel (I know lead is Verboten) on Cedar Plugs (tuna lures) I troll and cast for bass and blues (ask Flaptail) . I buy "ONE SHOT" brand Sign Painters oil based paint and clear coat from PEARL ART SUPPLY, Central Square, in Cambridge, MA. (I think PEARL may also be on-line.) In the 1950's my Dad used lead based enamel paint when painting our house. Lead-based paint worked great. Stood up to abuse. If you use lead-based paint just don't chew on your lures. Let the bluefish do that.

(4) I don't know much about epoxy-based coatings (despite the fact that I am a chemist by education) but I have successfully used BONDO MARINE epoxy filler (similar to BONDO auto body epoxy filler but designed for underwater applications) for fairing the hull of my boat and for filling in dents in the planking. This stuff lasts for years. I suspect epoxy is the ultimate coating for wooden fishing plugs but I don't own my lures long enough to bother with two-part epoxy coating because of toothy bluefish.


(5) Good luck!

[thefishingfreak]

like cs says.
how long is a lure spozed to last?
theres a huge line between form and function.

i bit a wooden plug painted with my stuff, and it dented.
i bit a fiberglass plug painted with my stuff, and i losened a tooth.

i wouldn't go crazy on the topcoat. it's what's underneath that matters.
and if the bloofish take it away, it's easy to make more
mike