Overhead storage cabinet on Mako / repair....

[fish raptor]

I thought I would ask Guppy if he could shed some light on my repair idea with the starboard he mentioned in one of his previous posts to me.

Last time out my overhead storage locker about the cockpit where you store all your small particulars came loose and almost fell down. I had enough bongies aboard to securely hold it into and place till I got home. The locker is held into place by small tiny screws at it's lip circumference screwed into the edge a 1/4" thick black plastic rectangular sheet which is fastened to the stainless overhead rail with big washers and nuts and bolts. The problem is that this 1/4" thick black plastic is not real rigid and does flex (especially if it gets hot in the sun). The lip of the storage locker has a bunch of these tiny screws that are SUPPOSE to hit the dead center of the this 1/4" black plastic however I noticed that many had missed or were on the very edge (not in center) and hence it all came loose and the white locker dropped down. So...... I have to fix but I do not want to use the what i consider poor design that held it in before as under the best circumstances it's integrity would be iffy. With all the stuff I have in the that overhead locker (large fish fillets.... see if anyone is paying attention...) and the boat bouncing I don't think she would hold so I need to improve on the original design . That black rectangular 1/4" sheet is (17" x 29" long) long enough to hold some nice size fillets.... I am thinking of just changing that with 1/2" starboard that way I have a half inch to hit with all those screws plus it won't flex being thicker like the 1/4" black plastic that is currently holding up the locker. The only question I have is...... as you can see from the picture the black plastic is bolted to the stainless frame but it does have a slight curve downward on each side in shape, over the 29" length I think about 1/2" bent down on each side (this is the same shape of the locker too...as this black plastic fits INSIDE the top of the locker). BUT..... I am not sure if 1/2" Starboard 29" long can flex enough to accomodate that 1/2" downward shape on each side. If it did I would imagine it would be infinitely stronger than the factory 1/4" black plastic that is currently there. That black plastic just fits on the inside of the locker all the way around and siliconed to prevent water from entering the top side of locker. You have worked with starboard, do you think my idea will work ? If not any suggestions. I just figured that at 1/2" thick there will be no flexing in the head and plenty of thickness to hit the middle of that 1/2" which will bring lots of integrity. The reason my fell is a LOT of the screws were not in center of the 1/4" black plastic or they missed completely and with the bouncing the flexing that did her in.
Have included 2 pics so that you can see the issue. One is a pic of the black plastic overhead and the 2nd is the edge of the locker where all the screws are .....


Kind Regards,

Fish Raptor

[ecduzitgood]

I would try getting longer screws for where they anchor to the t top and install a piece of wood cut to size so the screws from either side can have a good anchor and use 3m 5200 liberally.
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[fish raptor]

Originally Posted by ecduzitgood

I would try getting longer screws for where they anchor to the t top and install a piece of wood cut to size so the screws from either side can have a good anchor and use 3m 5200 liberally.
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the only thing is that is "can" be exposed to water and I would wonder if over time it would rot, degrade, soften and "give way" like the first one. The wood would be the easiest for me and originally it would be strong but would wonder long term.

This is the 2nd time I have heard of this 3m 5200. sounds strong. Is it a caulk type dispenser tube ? Waterproof ?

[Raider Ronnie]

Get rid of the black plastic, have someone glass a piece of Nida Core (use the black plastic as a template) to the box.
Starboard is heavy and not the best choice to fasten to the fiberglass box, weather it's screws, 5200, silicone.......
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[ecduzitgood]

I meant something just big enough to give you a better anchoring point for the screws holding the cabinent....( 6" × 18" oak sealed with a coat of etex or poly for example ) or whatever you can make work. 3m 5200 around the top edge. Install the plastic back on the cabinent with the wood inside.
Raider Ronnies idea would be ideal if the budget allows.
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[Guppy]

Originally Posted by Raider Ronnie

Get rid of the black plastic, have someone glass a piece of Nida Core (use the black plastic as a template) to the box.
Starboard is heavy and not the best choice to fasten to the fiberglass box, weather it's screws, 5200, silicone.......
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I'll second that,,, and how about glassing in (adding to above) reinforcement at the bolt locations

Those boxes take a beating, think over build IMO

[fish raptor]

Originally Posted by Raider Ronnie

Get rid of the black plastic, have someone glass a piece of Nida Core (use the black plastic as a template) to the box.
Starboard is heavy and not the best choice to fasten to the fiberglass box, weather it's screws, 5200, silicone.......
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I have never heard or know anything about this "Nida Core" so I googled it. I see that quite a few state it flexes somewhat especially when warm (sun) so I am concerned which all the pounding the overhead storage box will take that it will eventually do that same at the orig black plastic. The fact that 3 agree it is the way to fix I should consider it. Since it is a "honeycomb" design for the life of me I cannot see how perimeter screws will hold into that "hollow" type material as apposed to the starboard solid ?? Please elaborate .... I guess I just don't understand why the starboard would not work perfectly especially if I predrill dead center on the 1/2" and use nice long screws. I thought this stuff was the best thing since sliced bread. The fact that it is heavy I wouldn't think would be an issue.

If original material that failed (black plastic 1/4" thick), what thickness do you recomend Nida Core I use ? I was thinking 1/2"...
and other than using perimeter screws should I do anything else to afix it to the overhead storage box. it does have to be waterproof so contents do not get wet. I don't work with fiberglass much so not sure best route/steps to take. After the perimeter screws have been applied (should I also used glue while inserting them for added integrity) should I glass in, glue in or silicone in (like factory) to waterproof . I agree totally with Guppy that overbuilding it is an absolute must as lots of stuff in it and lots of pounding.... looking for the long haul....

[Guppy]

You're right, you're not getting it

Your box was screwed to that cheep arz plastic top... We're saying f glass the new top to the box.... It'll become a one pcs box... To do the same again WITH SCREWS would be nuts IMO

BOATS!

[ecduzitgood]

You can't put enough in to have the wood fail. A 5/8" thick oak block on either side with the screws going through to the t-top and then using 3 or 4 stainless 1" screws for each side to mount the bottom to the top.


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[nightfighter]

Bernie, if that is original T-top from manufacturer, I would also contact Mako...... If it is aftermarket, is there a manufacturers name on the box? But make some noise with Mako for sure.....

[fish raptor]

Originally Posted by nightfighter

Bernie, if that is original T-top from manufacturer, I would also contact Mako...... If it is aftermarket, is there a manufacturers name on the box? But make some noise with Mako for sure.....

It's a 2011 model so I am sure not under warranty BUT is is easy to see that most factory screws MISSED the top black 1/4" thick plastic and hence eventually caused the failure. Even if they did decide to ship me a new one I just don't feel comfortable with all that weight being held by 14 tiny screws in the edge of that 1/4" plastic, plus as I said.....I can see it does flex and in the heat even more. I probably carry more than most which isn't helping the situation but it SHOULD hold whatever anyone puts up their.... excluding the multiple large fillets I mean....

[Raider Ronnie]

Originally Posted by fish raptor

I have never heard or know anything about this "Nida Core" so I googled it. I see that quite a few state it flexes somewhat especially when warm (sun) so I am concerned which all the pounding the overhead storage box will take that it will eventually do that same at the orig black plastic. The fact that 3 agree it is the way to fix I should consider it. Since it is a "honeycomb" design for the life of me I cannot see how perimeter screws will hold into that "hollow" type material as apposed to the starboard solid ?? Please elaborate .... I guess I just don't understand why the starboard would not work perfectly especially if I predrill dead center on the 1/2" and use nice long screws. I thought this stuff was the best thing since sliced bread. The fact that it is heavy I wouldn't think would be an issue.

If original material that failed (black plastic 1/4" thick), what thickness do you recomend Nida Core I use ? I was thinking 1/2"...
and other than using perimeter screws should I do anything else to afix it to the overhead storage box. it does have to be waterproof so contents do not get wet. I don't work with fiberglass much so not sure best route/steps to take. After the perimeter screws have been applied (should I also used glue while inserting them for added integrity) should I glass in, glue in or silicone in (like factory) to waterproof . I agree totally with Guppy that overbuilding it is an absolute must as lots of stuff in it and lots of pounding.... looking for the long haul....

Nida Core is a Core material.
Most modern builders use it or a similar material.
It's glassed over on both sides and would be glass to your box making it 1 unit.
Done correctly it will be light weight, stable in all temperatures and last forever unlike wood, starboard, 5200 or attached with screws.
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[fish raptor]

Originally Posted by Raider Ronnie

Nida Core is a Core material.
Most modern builders use it or a similar material.
It's glassed over on both sides and would be glass to your box making it 1 unit.
Done correctly it will be light weight, stable in all temperatures and last forever unlike wood, starboard, 5200 or attached with screws.
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O.K. I am finally getting the picture, so Nida would be glassed to the storage box..... so the next question is..... can someone who has never glassed before get the job done or is this something that I have to "hire out". I am pretty handy and with youtube videos explaining "how to" I would guess I would be able to handle it but would like to know what is involved in "glassing it" to the orig storage box. What do I buy, quantity, do I have to buy fiberglass mesh for the repair.

can anyone provide brand names of specific product/s I need and possibly where I might find such products. I would start by purchasing a slightly oversized piece of this Nida and cut it precisely to fit just inside the box, possibly using the existing black plastic as a template.

[Raider Ronnie]

Originally Posted by fish raptor

O.K. I am finally getting the picture, so Nida would be glassed to the storage box..... so the next question is..... can someone who has never glassed before get the job done or is this something that I have to "hire out". I am pretty handy and with youtube videos explaining "how to" I would guess I would be able to handle it but would like to know what is involved in "glassing it" to the orig storage box. What do I buy, quantity, do I have to buy fiberglass mesh for the repair.

can anyone provide brand names of specific product/s I need and possibly where I might find such products. I would start by purchasing a slightly oversized piece of this Nida and cut it precisely to fit just inside the box, possibly using the existing black plastic as a template.

Not really a do it yourself job.
From your profile I see you are in NY.
If you were closer or wanted to get it to me I could do the job.
Keep in mind, after glassing to your existing box it's would need to be gel coated
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[fish raptor]

Originally Posted by Raider Ronnie

Not really a do it yourself job.
From your profile I see you are in NY.
If you were closer or wanted to get it to me I could do the job.
Keep in mind, after glassing to your existing box it's would need to be gel coated
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I am pretty handy and cutting the Nida perfectly to fit the box would be cake.... it's just the glassing in that I would have to become proficient at. Once the Nida is permanently afixed to the box rescrewing it back in place is also cake. It glassing that difficult that I could not learn how to do it with help from say Youtube or written instructions ?

Don't understand why It would need to be gelcoated. I thought that process was just done to make it look "pretty" ... ie... give it a nice white glossy look but since this Nida piece is hidden from view as it is on the inside top of the box why would it need to be gelcoated. The only part of it that you would see is the bottom surface when you opened up the overhead storage front door and looked inside at it's ceiling.
Am I correct in assuming that the gelcoating is done only for cosmetic reasons only and has nothing to to with it structurally ?

Where do you live ? I mean if push came to shove I could run it out in my Altima..... BUT I head to the cape about ever two to three weeks to fish so I would be looking to getting it fixed...... yesterday. I take it you do not have this Nida product and would have to order it like myself.

I live in Burnt Hills (near Saratoga) and we have some nice coffee shops close to my house.....

signed
Motel 6
"We'll leave the light on".....

[MakoMike]

One word of caution, no matter how you fix it, avoid screws is at all possible, though bolt everything and use nyloc nuts on the ends.

[ecduzitgood]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...776736&alt=web
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[fish raptor]

Since I had to use the boat this weekend time wasn't on my side so I decided to fix the overhead storage unit by using 14 (count) 1/2" 90 degree stainless brackets being held in by #10x32 Stainless Steel bolts with nylok nuts. After all the brackets were installed I ran the 3m 5200 bead on the inside and outside edge for added strength and waterproofing and also on the 10x32 SS bolts. (you right this stuff is strong).

The end product if infinitely stronger than factory 14 tiny screws holding the box. The repair WILL NOT FAIL, the box would break before any of the fasteners failed.

2 pics

[ecduzitgood]

Nice job!
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[MakoMike]

Nice!