suggestions for drilling through hole

[badger]

as if my fishing obsession isnt big enough i figured i would try making some plugs. my main question is the best technique for drilling the through hole? if you guys feel like giving me any other pointers that would be sweet...

[nightfighter]

Welcome.

Try using the advanced search option as this has been the subject of many threads. Myself, I am most comfortable doing this on the lathe. Post here again if you do not find those threads. Not blowing you off, but there is much more information there than I could offer...... Welcome to the addiction.

[O.D. Mike]

Welcome to the site and the addiction,

I pre-drill 3/16" holes, approximately 2" on both sides on the lathe and connect the holes with a power drill after the lure is completely turned. It is the way I started a while ago, haven't found a better way for me.

[Slipknot]

Welcome to the site
Everyone seems to have their own process as to how they wind up with a thru drilled blank. I tried the drill press, did not like it. I started out using a handheld power drill with a long 1/8" bit drill from each end while holding the turned blank in my hand occasionally letting the blank spin in my hand to maintain keeping it centered, it works but sometimes it wanders. Now I drill on the lathe using a chuck on the lathe and an 1/8" bit going from each end until they connect
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[badger]

thanks guys

[Nebe]

I drill my belly hook swivel hole first so that if my drilling does not meet from both ends, it will at least end up at that hole and you can fish the wire down the next opening after slightly bending it.

I drill on the lathe as well and complete it by hand with a longer bit.
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[numbskull]

You can use a 5/32 bit as well to have less deflection.
You can use an "aircraft bit" (which is only threaded for the first few inches) to get less deflection but you need to clear chips more frequently.
You can also drill on a drill press with a centering pin lined up directly below the bit (drill pilot holes and connect by hand).
They make end grain bits (brad point with spurs ground off) that help (Fuller drill has them) particularly with 1/8 bits.
Some woods (southern yellow pine in particular) can't be drilled well because of marked hardness differences between growth rings.
Swearing is useful.

[ThrowingTimber]

5/32" long or short fluted bit from wl fuller on 7 cypress in warwick. They offer as standard a long and a short model. Both have their uses. They are the folks who supply mcmaster carr etc with the bits offered in their catalog.

Mt2 taper chuck in the lathe, any 5/32" bit (you only need 2-3" as was mentioned above) low to med speed depending on wood used. Grab piece and direct it to the spinning bit with one hand(center it) push the tail stock slowly making sure to back it out to keep a clean bit.

Flip the piece and repeat. Finish a complete through hole with a hand drill 5/32" long again working a bit from each end.

If you allow the tool (bit) to do its job without overheating it, it isnt going to walk.

If you need model #'s etc lmk I'll hit you back with them.
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