Awesome Airbrush Cleaner

[Eric Roach]

I got a lower-end ultrasonic cleaner after seeing a YouTube video on it's usefulness in cleaning airbrushes.

I fill the tank with Bernzy solution for cleaning up water-based paints and I suspend a small badger bottle in the tank containing lacquer thinner for cleaning parts after spraying with lacquer-based paints.

This thing rocks for completely removing all traces of paint from the inside of airbrush nozzles. The airbrush sprays like it is new out of the box after each ultrasonic bath.

One of my best lure building investments -- this one was about $35 from Amazon.

[numbskull]

I'm curious to learn more about lacquer.
What brand do you use?
Why use it rather than createx?
Do you have an explosion proof exhaust system?
Have you tried clear coating with it?

Thanks.

[Eric Roach]

Hi George, answers below.

Originally Posted by numbskull

I'm curious to learn more about lacquer.

• What brand do you use? For airbrush paints I use Polytranspar and Life Tone lacquer-based paints. I order from an online taxidermy company called Wasco.
• Why use it rather than createx? Dries quickly -- ready to clear-coat within an hour (unless a lot of layering, then a couple hours); no need to heat-set; water insoluble; none of the top-coat problems I occasionally experienced with Createx.
• Do you have an explosion proof exhaust system? I have an exterior-vented spray booth with a Dayton "squirrel cage" blower. To be clear, this motor is not technically explosion-proof, but the motor and wiring is not in the air stream. I also open a blast gate to draw clean air directly into the plenum when airbrushing with lacquers or spraying with rattle cans.
• Have you tried clear coating with it? Just rattle-can lacquer. I have some KBS Diamond Coat that I intended to spray through a cheap gun, but someone turned me on to a new epoxy that I like quite a bit.

Thanks.

[pbadad]

ERIC, KBS clear coat has been our main top coat on our BB bats. i currently foam brush the finish. This finish is rock hard after curing for 4+ days. Held up extremly well. I haven't sprayed this finish do to the lack of ventilation. Cutting it 20-25% will be ideal for shooting with 35-40lb pressure. I have a small detail gravity gun which i played with but no serious use yet. i also dipped the finsh on un wired bodies. 3 coats is reccommended fpr salt water use. my only gripe w/KBS is the storing of product to keeo it from hardening. I store in glass canning jars , vacuum sealing with my vacuum bagger. the finish is a moisture curing product. does stink.

[iamskippy]

I have seen the KBS finish and its Rediculas, better then any epoxy finish i have seen
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[Eric Roach]

I believe M&D's lures might still be coated in sprayed KBS.

I think I remember a trick of using a machine screw on the bottom of the can to let the KBS out rather than relying on the lid, which I understand can become permanently sealed if any KBS gets on the rim.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[Raven]

Originally Posted by Eric Roach

I believe M&D's lures might still be coated in sprayed KBS.

I think I remember a trick of using a machine screw on the bottom of the can to let the KBS out rather than relying on the lid, which I understand can become permanently sealed if any KBS gets on the rim.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

how do you accomplish that?

[pbadad]

You take a screw w/gasket. flip can upside down punch hole screw in screw plug.
When drawn off the bottom air doesn't enter especially if you insert screw while its running out "messy". If you open lid, use siran wrap to cover opening b/4 lid is installed. Little tip, cut 20% makes an expensive sealer.

[Eric Roach]

I think air still enters the can when pouring out of the bottom. I think the benefit of the screw/gasket is not having to deal with a stuck lid and not having to deal with the skim.

Pbadad: Did you have any issues with bubbles forming in the KBS when dipping?
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[pbadad]

No bubbling when dipping. I have been using KBS for 4 years and when we started custom turning bats, I researched one part clear coats and on advice of a popular plug builder, I contacted the company. My concern was using over wood and holding up to abuse. One point he did make was to allow any paint to thoroughly dry/cure prior to overcoating w/ clear coat. This allows ample time for gassing out which help stop bubbling. Any bats we paint, we wait 4 days. Haven't had any returns for paint flaws. On lures, 3 coats is recommended for saltwater immersion. I will add a 20% thinning w/ KBS thinner is a great sealer/hardener. Sanded w/220 grit then coated w/ full strength, one coat. Many customers prefer a satin sanded finish 220 grit rather than a overcoat of full strength for aesthetics. This clear coat is amazing to keep clean. Hitting tee mark, balls and bat marks wipe off with a cleaner. Xylol cleans par tar right off too. may only bitch is the storing. I have numerous times spoken to the company for a better container or dispensing. At $60.00 a qt. , I meticulously store by vacuum sealing in canning jars. Hope this long winded post helps.

[Eric Roach]

It does help -- thank you for all the information.

When KBS is used as a sealer, do you have a hard time priming/painting over it? I see their marketing page stressed its use as graffiti protection so I imagine adhesion is an issue(?)

PS: What do you make your bats out of? Do you have a pic' or two? I just think that's a cool hobby.

[pbadad]

the sealed bat gets sanded w/220 grit, cleaned then painted. cured 4 days then clear coat. We have been staining more bats and with this I stain first then let dry for 4 days before clear coating. i don't use a thinned sealer because the stain will be removed even if it's dry. So we forego the thinned version and double coat w/ full strength. We turn rock maple, Canadian yellow birch and ash. we price the bats 60.00-80.00. I use a 36" Vega and 2 Vega steady rest and lots of care. i get some pix up soon.

[Eric Roach]

Nice, thank you again.