new scratch coat??

[Lower]

Wanted to see what you guys thought. I have a friend who builds model cars. He says a lot of guys are starting to use Future Floor Wax as their clear coat. He says its thin enough to shoot through an airbrush and dries hard and clear. Says it will never yellow. It's also acrylic, so it's not as nasty as U-Pol or Etex clear coat.

Anyway, just curious if anyone's heard of it or tried it.

[Slipknot]

might be perfect for plugs, it will repell water great I bet

[Pete F.]

Wonder how it would work as a sealer?

[eastendlu]

I pulled this .Looks like i'm going to pick some up to try Ace Hardware carries it!

I have finally tried a new method of finishing my painted RR equipment. I used to use Accu-paint finishes because I liked the way they layed-down a nice thin coat and really protected the decals and paint. Unfortunately, Accupaint is really becoming hard to find these days even though I live only 60 miles from where its made. So I needed a new system to finish my models. I did not like Floquil's finishes because of the solvent problems and the fact the Floquil does not like Water based paints (crazing problems). Testors Dullcoat and Glosscoat are also a problem because they have a nasty habit of yellowing with age. I also tried our own line of Microscale finishing products but I have never gotten used to using them without running into some problems. I am not knocking our stuff, in fact I do use them on armor models. Unfortunately, With Model RR equipment, it just doesn't work for me and the way I like to see my rolling stock to look once they are finished.

So I did a bit of research and experimenting to find a new finishing system that works for me. I finally found a system that works beautifully on my model RR locomotives and rolling stock.

Future Floor Wax.

You heard it correct: Future Floor Wax.

I found about Future Floor Wax by lurking in the rec.models.scale newsgroup and these guys swear by it. So I thought I would give it a try and I cannot believe how good it works!

I painted a Maine Central GP38-2 in the Harvest Gold∓Pine Tree Green paint scheme using the new Pollyscale water-based paints. The paints tend to dry a bit on the flat side and I need a glossy surface to decal on. (Be sure to correct any painting mistakes before you apply the first coat of Future and applying your decals).

Out comes the Future Floor Wax. Use it straight from the squeeze bottle; no need to thin it because the stuff is pretty thin already. Apply a thin coat to your model and then set aside to dry for about an hour. You will have a very glossy surface to which your decals will sit on perfectly. The Future will also protect you painted areas from damage by decal solvent or hard water.

When you are finished with decaling, you are ready for your final overcoat. Out comes the Future Floor Wax again! This time you add some Tamiya X-21 Flat base to the Future Floor Wax. How flat you want your finish to become depends on how much flat base you add to the Future. Experiment by adding a little and spraying a junk boxcar or something. Keep adding Flat Base to the Future until you get the finish you want. With a little experimenting, you can get anything from dead flat to a nice semi-gloss finish just by controlling the amount of flat base you add to the Future.

Once you apply the finish coat your decals and paint will be protected by a rock-hard acrylic finish just like your floors would be <grin>.

Future works better than Dullcoat because Future will not yellow with age. It works better than Floquil Crystalcoat because Future is self-leveling and lays-down a much thinner coat than Crystalcoat can ever do.

When you are finished spraying, clean your airbrush with a solution of White Ammonia and water (I mix a 50%-50% solution in a jar). If you make a big mistake with Future Floor Wax, it strips easily with Ammonia.

Of course, like with any solvents, be sure to wear a respirator and use a well ventillated paint booth when applying Future and cleaning with Ammonia.

That's it ! If anyone else has experimented with using Future or wants to give it a try, please let me know and I will provide any other tips or tricks I might have.
John R. Sheridan

I always wanted that " Future Floor Wax" method but I can't find it. In Canada is it sold under another name, where can I find some?

See if its sold under the product name "Johnson's Clear."

Future Floor Wax isn't really a wax. Its a hard clear acrylic finish. It cleans up with ammonia, so if you blow it through an airbrush, you need to use an ammonia cleaner such as Windex to clean out the airbrush.

If you're using Future for the first time, be aware that it has extraordinary leveling properties so you have to be careful that you don't put it on too heavy. if you do then it will start to react to gravity as its drying, and you'll notice that the coating is a lot thicker at the bottom than the top. You can brush it on without any worry that it will leave brush marks.

A neat trick you can do with Future is to not cover the whole model with Future before decaling, but just get the area where the decal will go a bit wet with Future. Then apply the decal directly on the wet Future. The Futuer will hold that decal real snug and it will dry very hard. After the decal has set, you can apply Micro Sol or Solvaset if it still looks like it needs it. Then when the decal is dry you can spray your final clear coat over the model to seal the decals completely
Richard

1. Does it need to be thinned to airbrush on and if yes what do you use to thin it with?

No, it's already pretty thin, it can be used straight. You can airbrush it straight from the bottle, or cut it 50-50 with isopropyl alcohol--I thin mine, and it works great, but it is quite thin as packaged. You get a gloosier surface if you apply it straight--the thinned stuff gives an almost semi-gloss finish, but you can apply several coats to build a high gloss. I find that thinned Future doesn't tend to puddle, while you really need to watch for a build up if you use it straight.

2. Can it be brushed on?

Yes. I often use an ordinary Q-Tip to apply it if I don't want to use the airbrush.

Yes. It's formulated to produce a no-fuss, no-streaks, high-gloss finish when applied with a mop, so there certainly won't be any problems with using a brush! It's self-levelling, the only possible problem is runs and drips if you apply too thick a coat. If you get bubbles, just breath gently on the model and the bubbles will pop.

You can even pour it on. Yep - poured is right! I made a shuttle for my brother (NASA worker) and when it came time to put on the Future, I decided to try a new tack. I held the model over a large plastic (Rubbermaid type) storage box, and literally squirted it on right from the container. I held it by the interior (engines and back bulkhead left off 'til last) and let it drain off the rear of the wings, touching the edge to a paper towel to get off the excess. It turned out to be the best, smoothest shine I've gotten from Future so far - better than airbrushing or brushing. Maybe it's just me, but it worked out very nicely. Decals went on and then a flat coat (Polly-scale flat clear - my favorite).

Absolutely. Future has great self-leveling properties. I have used a big soft standard 1/2" brush, and I have used one of those 1" wide foam rubber disposal trim-painting brushes with equal success.
Ken Durling

3. Can it be applied over acrylic and enamel paint?

Yes. You might get cracking with acrylics, depending on what acrylic paints you use, how long they've been allowed to dry, and how thick a coat of Future you apply. Just let the paint cure for a day before you apply it.

4. Do you apply it over clear canopies?

You can, and you can also dip the clear part into the Future, wick off the excess, and let it dry. Cover the part with a bowl to keep dust from settling on it.

I now dip my clear plastic parts in Future floor wax before any other work is done. With the future on as a protectant and sealer, I find it easy to remove paint from the plastic, especially with waterless hand cleaner.
Charlie

Also should I put a couple of coats on before I put the decals on , or decal first?

That depends on whether the base coat is flat or gloss. If flat, yes, Future it first. If gloss, go ahead and put your decals on straight and Future afterwards. That's only becuase decals do not settle well on the porous surface of a flat finish. Air gets trapped and causes silvering. A very bad thing. But decals will go great onto gloss paint.
Ken Durling

Some decals benefit from being placed directly into fresh Future(or clear acrylic), brush on some Future on the spot where the decal should go, place the decal and push out any air bubbles and overcoat with some more Future (or clear acrylic). This is useful for decals where the glue is to old, the decal to stiff or brittle or there's just too much decal-glue so it needs to be washed off first. The glue on some decals is so thick that it becomes slimy and may be visible when dry. In those cases I wash off all the glue and use Future as glue instead.

[Lower]

Yeah...I did a search too. This stuff is like gold to the model guys. My friend says its got the consistancy of water so you could dip if you didnt want to spray. He thought the extra would just run off the plug. That would be cool, paint then just dip for a clearcoat.

Even cooler would be if it worked as a sealer. Seems far fetched, but who knows.

[eastendlu]

And once again you guys get my wheels spinning.

[GattaFish]

I hope someone puts this stuff to the test soon,,,,, I would like to see some pictures of the results,,,,

[Slipknot]

as a sealer? no good remember it's a wax. paint is not going to stick to wax

[Lower]

I just read what Lu posted, not sure if it's accurate but...

"Future Floor Wax isn't really a wax. Its a hard clear acrylic finish."

I know I just need to try it to know for sure, but I don't have any right now so I'll just keep throwing things around.

[eastendlu]

I'll be picking some up tommorow on my way to work.I have a few plugs ready for sealing so i'll give it the test all the way thru and let you know.
And yest its not a wax its an acrylic ,i'm going to dip and also try the airbrush with it.

[ProfessorM]

Go Lu go. I look forward to your results and hell if I don't work you can always do your floors or sell it to a bald guy.

[Rockfish9]

I'll be interested in your finding as well...

Being involved with building maintenance over the last 20 years, one thing I know about wax, if exposed to standing water for a long period of time it becomes milky and softens...

The future may be different in it's chemicle compound than the wax I buy for the plant.. it will be interesting to see if it pans out.... if so, it will be alot eaiser to deal with than epoxy or varnish... good luck!

[Lower]

Go get em Lu. Stay in touch. I'll be messing around a bit too, we can compare notes. BTW...my friend said the paint will definitly stick. They paint models after they clear coat, then clear coat again.

As a sealer I'm on the fence. I will probably do what Salty did on the other magic potion. Dip let dry then soak in water. Measure water gain and OD. My only thought is that it won't soak into the wood. So if this barrier is broken the wood will be exposed.

Anyone else have any thoughts on the stuff??

[eastendlu]

Ok i went and got some at break time.Stuff has the consistensy of water.I'll do a test this weekend with it and post my findings next week.

[MAC]

I tried this back when I was in the Army on my jump boots. Looks great; shines like a bastage. Only down side was it tended to turn white when it got wet......

[eastendlu]

Thanks for that bit of info Mac ,you gave me another testing idea.

[gone fishin]

I am going to give it a shot - I used that product on my basement office floor about 8 years ago and with some real hard use (rolling office chairs and a flood or two) it is still holding up well .
I applied a coat of it over a junk plug that I had hanging around. I used a Q tip and found that Createx comes off some on the Q tip. I will give it a coat with an acid brush for applying and will post the plug tomorrow.

[gone fishin]

here's a small popper that was going to the trash. The paint used was createx. 2 Coats of wax.

[justplugit]

GF thanks. How does the shine and depth of finish compare to epoxy?

[gone fishin]

Not good. It doesn't have the depth of epoxy and the shine isn't real bright. It does look beetter than some professional finishes though. I am sort of interested in trying the dunking method. It will penetrste inside the plug and give some added protection.
I am going to try it in the salt water if the weather holds up. Maybe it will be my charm & I will ge a landlocked or holdover. Last fish I caught was Dec. 18. Two small fish one about 20" & a 14".

[Lower]

I haven't played around with it yet, so I can't say...but I'm not sure it will work as a final coat?? Still think epoxy is needed. I'm just hoping it might be able to be used as a scratch coat, as I hate using the "fry your brain stuff".

Then the sealer idea got thrown in, that's worth playing with too.

Thanks for getting the ball rolling GF! Toss it in some water, I'm curious about what Mac said...

[eastendlu]

I dipped some last night on a scrap lure to see how it seals.I'll weigh it and measure it tonight and let sit submerged for 10 hours and let you know how that works out.

[jklett]

Another thing I heard about the future floor wax is that folks are using it as a thinner for acrylic craft paints. The people that do it say that it's smoother to spray than createx.

[eastendlu]

Results of my sealing test are that your better off with bannana oil plug sucked in alot of water i'll try it as at clear coat next.

[Lower]

Hey Lu, at least the stuff was only 6 bucks and easy to find. I just dipped a few to see how it would work as a sealer. I have this feeling I'm wasting my time.

If it does work as a clear coat that would be cool. Be nice to just dip the plugs after painting. We'll see.

[eastendlu]

True it was cheap enough to give it a try.The search for the magic formula continues.

[tattoobob]

Originally Posted by MAC

I tried this back when I was in the Army on my jump boots. Looks great; shines like a bastage. Only down side was it tended to turn white when it got wet......

Bingo, put a glass of water on a table that has been waxed and lift after an hour, a white ring is left