Cleaning before epoxy

[Woodbuster]

Is there any other good way to clean a painted plug after adding the thru wire & grommets other than isoprophyl alchohol?
I use Createx paint and dont want to rub it off the plug.
I know I could clear coat and scuff but I thought if there was a good, non solvent cleaner, that would be great.

[ProfessorM]

I use iso. to strip the createx to the primer of paint jobs I hate so be careful. I clear coat with u-pol. I am getting sick of it though. Sorry no help

[tattoobob]

I just use a tack cloth

[The Dad Fisherman]

Hit it with a spray clearcoat first then a light scuff w/ steel Wool and then wipe it w/ the isopropyl. Now its ready for the epoxy.

I use the spray clearcoat so i can handle the plug with out screwing up the paint

[numbskull]

I had a lot of trouble with this last year when I first started using epoxy. I used Clear Coat system three, which is VERY fussy stuff, and it would not adhere to Krylon Clear no matter how much I scuffed and wiped with various solvents. Eventually I quit using a spray clear and put the epoxy directly over the Createx. I handle the plugs with a clean soft cotton rag if I wire them before epoxy and it works OK, though usually I wire afterwards. I also found with the system three Clear Coat stuff that I had to use a scale to mix small batches (syringes apparently have silicone that contaminated the epoxy and cause adhesion issues and measuring spoons gave inconsistent drying results), had to mix with a metal stirrer (wood apparently absorbed the hardener but not the resin changing the ratio in small batches), had to buy a slower spinner motor (18 rpm caused it to flow on handcarves, 3 rpm was better), and use it in a very warm room (over 72 degrees). All in all a nightmare to use and I don't recommend it. I am planning to try a UV activated polyurethane called SunCure next (though I have concerns it may lift the Createx, or yellow too much like other polys). Waterbased clear coats with added "crosslinking" agents are apparently also an option (but I think the crosslinkers are toxic). Something still to be said for rattlecans and spray clears. Good luck.

[thefishingfreak]

avoid the problem in the first place. clean hands. no chicken wings. no wd40 or such lingering in the air and you'll be all set.

i would avoid steel wool arround anything you plan to get wet. boat,car etc. it will be a place for rust to start. bronze wool or scuff pads might be better. just my thoughts

[ProfessorM]

George I have used the sun cure. Hardened nice and very quick so application of the product , so it goes on smooth, requires more experimentation. It is a thick liquid so hard to spread smooth. The down side is it smells for a while, similar to fiberglass resin stuff, and the clarity of the finish is no where near the 2 part epoxies that we are used too. Slightly cloudy, but on my own stuff it is probably good but I am spoiled by the clear epoxy finish.

[Woodbuster]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

avoid the problem in the first place. clean hands. no chicken wings. no wd40 or such lingering in the air and you'll be all set.

I've tried this with mixed results. Its just that when wireing a plug they get manhandled and even if you wear gloves, you are still touching a lot of potential contaminents. I'm thinking of trying an experiment with household cleaners that wont remove the createx.

[numbskull]

Scott and Paul, thanks for the heads up on the UV stuff, saved me some trouble and brain cells (which are getting precious these days).

[Backbeach Jake]

I scrub my hands with cheap dishwashing liquid and dry well. If I so much as touch my nose, I scrub again. I use no aerosols in the house before or after clearing with E-tex lite. As Fishingfreak said keep it clean to start with. I use a cheapo acrylic from ACMoore called "Traditions" and I don't scuff after paint. The 2 plugs that peeled on me (that I know of) peeled because of the E-tex ratio was off. I did have a "fisheye" problem with a coupla batches. That was before scrubbing with dish soap.

[Jigman]

Originally Posted by numbskull

... I also found with the system three Clear Coat stuff that I had to use a scale to mix small batches (syringes apparently have silicone that contaminated the epoxy and cause adhesion issues and measuring spoons gave inconsistent drying results), ....

If you use the syringes that you get at the pharmacy, you will have this problem. Try some from a rod building place. The latter do not have the silicon and work well.

Also agree with Freak, keep stuff clean and you will not have the problem. I wire after clear so I do not have to touch the plugs. No scratch coat for me.

Jigman

[The Dad Fisherman]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

i would avoid steel wool arround anything you plan to get wet. boat,car etc. it will be a place for rust to start. bronze wool or scuff pads might be better. just my thoughts

Duly Noted.......I'll switch over to the Scotch-Brite Pads.....never knew this was an issue.

[capesams]

enamel hates laquer
laquer hates enamel
sys3 hates laquer
sys3 likes enamel
sys3 like urathane
use the 2oz. mixing cups rod builders use to mix sys3...their all marked for mixing.....ask Mike cc for them.
use plastic stirring sticks they use in drinks
65 degree's is fine for sys3.

[ThrowingTimber]

Originally Posted by tattoobob

I just use a tack cloth

No good. Same stuff that makes it Tacky, gives you "fisheyes" in your finish.


I go with Freaks method and CLEAN EVERYTHING. Including the brushes I use apply the exoxy. I hit them with zap a gap so I dont have random bristles floating around, and I clean them in denatured al kee holl. Everything gets cleaned the cups, the brushes, the inside of the cup, the bottom the sides, anything I touch gets wiped down.