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Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general

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Old 04-16-2021, 10:15 AM   #1
nightfighter
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Updating 1993 Grady White Escape

This will be a long term project, as I do not want to sacrifice time on the water this year. But it IS 28 years old and could use some updating..

I also don't want to muddy up Linesider's great project thread, which is what has inspired me to jump in on this project. I will try to list product names and sources when I can or remember to....

The 20' Escape is still, to me, the best 20 footer around, for what I do. It is so good, in fact, that I have decided NOT to add a T-top. It comes down to how I can fish and handle the boat alone, as well as how much drift the boat has, vs. the extra windage of the T-top, access, and weight. Of course I do lose out on shade.

So, let's look at this spring's to do list;

1993 200hp Yamaha, carbureted. Engine is good. Replacing tilt motor. Also removed cowling cover, as it was looking faded and a little ghetto. Going to strip, sand, prime, fill, glass repair (minor), rattle can color and clearcoat. Mostly prep. Comfortable with rattle cans after doing plugs and many other items. I use one of those trigger grips and it makes for better results. I was quoted $600 for this job by a body shop, so we'll see if I can get as good results myself. Others have advised me not to bother with the rattle can DIY. We shall see.

Replacing electronics. Garmin echomap UHD 94sv. Already have old unit and transducer out, with messenger in, waiting for new transducer to be run. Old unit was inside glove box. This will go on top.

Replacing 3x3 Poly-Planar vhf auxiliary speaker on top of console.

I need to clean the bilge... (before I run that transducer cable) It got away from me over the past two years the boat wasn't used... So I after soliciting ideas, I am planning to use Krud Kutter, then follow up with pump spray bottle of bleach and hose it out. This is while still on the trailer, in my side yard... Depending on those results, I will look into using Oil Eater Degreaser, as I saw that used in another site's thread with good results.

I am thinking of getting a folding foot rest from Boat Outfitters. Pricey for what it is, but will make a world of difference to this short legged boy...

And then there is the wiring... The 28 year old wiring. Which has not really posed a problem, except for working reliably with the sending unit to the Yamaha fuel gauge. I did have that gauge redone at GaugeSaver this winter and will re-install this year, removing a stock gauge I had put in four years ago. I have ordered Nigel Calder's book Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, as I am a novice about most things electrical. Should arrive today. But here is where I need to decide what happens now, before this season. And what needs be better studied, designed, and budgeted for in both time and money, before I get too deep. I will include two pics of my mess that I must figure out and understand. Access is through removing the dash panel, as the side door on the console is too small to do anything. Current access is no better than trying to retrieve a letter out of a mailbox... So I may cut a door into the front of the console, behind the backrest cushion, and start over with a piece of starboard mounted as a horizontal shelf to mount the new wiring components.

But there are so many bad design elements to my console... I would like to replace the whole thing. But, and this is a big but, it is a two piece console, and the bottom piece is incorporated into a significant part of the deck. It is large. And it would only be removed if one had to replace the fuel tank.... which is also 28 years old, but not posing any problems... So unless Grady has a newer design upper console that will fit over my lower, (doubtful), I think I just put the major rewiring off until fall/winter...

I hope to be able to add on to this with noteworthy progress in the coming months and year(s).
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Last edited by nightfighter; 04-16-2021 at 11:42 AM..

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Old 04-16-2021, 11:09 AM   #2
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awesome Ross... I love old boats,they have charisma , but they do require a lot of TLC, IMHO, they built them good back then... mine ( although not a grady) is 44 years old( I've had it for 41) with the original transom.. you are correct that boat of yours is a good one, on par with Jones brothers and sea craft of that era..

sounds like you have a solid plan, I found that mounting the transducers on blocks of PVC or star board that is attached to the transom, not only save the transom but gives the transducer better readability, and a lot less spray and if you need to redrill the mounting holes, your drilling plastic and not your transom..

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 04-16-2021, 03:24 PM   #3
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Excellent! Ross, that is a great boat which is still built on the sea-v2 hull design since '93, and I believe the console didn't change for many years meaning replacement parts are readily available. Even though your console might be difficult to work on or in, the plus side of that specific console is that it is a much more protective housing for electrical connections in the marine environment.

Rewiring is a worth-while investment in function and safety, plus on the water trouble-shooting from an upgraded electrical system is a comfort in itself. My boat project is still under half the cost of dealership new, and had I gone that route I wouldn't have a hardtop, any electronics, and it would have factory wiring. Even though my boat is 16 years old I can say it is better than new at under half the cost.

Your own investment in re-wiring is absolutely worth it.

In addition to reading Nigel Caulder's book here is another resource for wiring with pictures and diagrams.
https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/

On that webpage there is a blue menu bar and a resources tab. Items 6, 7, and 8 (item 8 is linked above) offer diagrams for entire boat wiring, to various common items in boats (switches, bildge pumps, trim tabs, etc) and diagrams for single battery wiring, dual battery wiring etc. All of it can be downloaded as PDFs and printed! I used the new wire marine resources for the basic concepts and if needed re-read Caulder's book chapters on the same for more in depth understanding. The biggest take-away from reading Nigel's book for me was understanding the impact of what loads I have on my boat to what type of system I should install, battery sizing, what switched and unswitched loads are and why, fusing and what the job of the different fuses are, and creating an electrical system diagram labeled with my loads and their draw, wires/circuit protection sized to the loads, and fuse protection at the battery sized to the wire. At that point it was like putting together a lego set.

In addition to installing an access door to the boat's electrical area, it might also be worth looking into how easy/difficult it is to remove the upper half of your console to do that portion of wiring in the comfort of a well lit work area over next offseason, it would also provide the easiest access to pull any re-wiring under the deck and wire the under-console components with the console on a table or bench.

Looking forward to this season, and to follow the progress of your project.
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Old 04-16-2021, 04:56 PM   #4
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Sourcing some custom, yet reasonable, solutions, like custom sized door for front of console, through boatoutfitters.com

Likely going to replace bilge pump too, especially after I loosen a load of dried oil floaters with cleaning and degreasers... That will definitely clog it up. Everyone, check your bilge pumps...

“Americans have the right and advantage of being armed, unlike the people of other countries, whose leaders are afraid to trust them with arms.” – James Madison.
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Old 04-16-2021, 08:07 PM   #5
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Old 04-16-2021, 09:04 PM   #6
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Good job Ross !
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Old 04-17-2021, 07:13 AM   #7
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A worthy project Ross....I like your idea of cutting in a door on the front of the console for better access..... made my console seat and backrest removable....with a release lever......easier to wire and maintain for sure.
Consider getting a multimeter if you dont have one already.
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Old 04-17-2021, 08:47 AM   #8
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Funny you mention that, Bob. I am looking at the different options for that access door. At first look, it will be approximately 13" tall and 26" wide. If I hinge on the bottom, my elbows will be resting on the open hinged door when working inside the console. If two doors with hinges on either side, I have two doors in the passageway when open and two slightly proud (piano) hinges. And finally, a lift out removable door, which is hinged horizontally in the middle, and can also be totally removed from the opening. (sample pics attached) All around the same money
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Last edited by nightfighter; 04-17-2021 at 09:03 AM..

“Americans have the right and advantage of being armed, unlike the people of other countries, whose leaders are afraid to trust them with arms.” – James Madison.
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Old 04-17-2021, 09:31 AM   #9
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i like that access door....the more room to work ...the better the job will be.. neatness wise.
I did my best to make solidly crimped connections and heat shrank all of them.
I meant to label them but never got to it. Boat wiring has guidelines for different color wires for different accesories to make identifying them easier....but i just stuck with red and black.

Last edited by Rmarsh; 08-26-2023 at 05:59 AM..
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:26 AM   #10
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Ross....you might be interested in something like this kit with pos and neg bussbars

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Old 04-18-2021, 07:40 AM   #11
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Good luck with that project , I didn’t think GW were wired like that
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Old 04-18-2021, 07:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightfighter View Post
Sourcing some custom, yet reasonable, solutions, like custom sized door for front of console, through boatoutfitters.com

Likely going to replace bilge pump too, especially after I loosen a load of dried oil floaters with cleaning and degreasers... That will definitely clog it up. Everyone, check your bilge pumps...
Build one !
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Old 04-18-2021, 07:06 PM   #13
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Ross, these worked well for me,, a little bigger than i wonted but work... laser printer works best

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-19-2021, 07:19 AM   #14
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something I highly recommend Ross is to mount a separate buss for just your NEEMA connections for both 1080 and 2000.it makes connectivity for your devices and linking them together easy.. by doing that any additions to your system like fuel flow meters or new equipment is seamless., .. also, get a book of Brady markers, tag each and every wire at both ends, make a legend that denotes each wire, connection and devise as well ass fuse location..keep a copy on your boat with the registration and one on file…

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:06 AM   #15
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I agree with rockfish. I don't know anything about the NMEA system buy will be studying it over this year. Saw some good content on THT. Label everything, and I made like RF suggested a diagram of everything, going to laminate it and keep one onboard, and have one in the computer to update as needed.

There are companies that make custom h/s labels, I did that for some wires then just bought white shrink for others and sharpied them in before setting them.
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Old 04-19-2021, 07:53 PM   #16
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After installing your access panel, you can probably add some pvc cleats and remount the back-rest pad seen in your picture, cleats would give you the additional clearance needed due to depth of new panel...and depending on size of access panel, it would remain hidden behind the pad, just a thought.
I replaced my 8" transom access hole with a nice 13" x 23" TEMPEST access hatch, HUGE difference in getting in there to do stuff. The door snaps right off the hinge so it's out of the way when needed....My CC has its access door on the side, it's a bittch getting in there to do anything, I feel like a fat anaconda with arthritis when I jockey into position.......feel like I fell off a building when trying to get out.

Good luck.... research and patience are key

......it finally happened, there are no more secret spots
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:35 PM   #17
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Thanks all for the ideas. We all get better for the input.
Gilly, the current cushion is fastened with the top roll sliding through a plastic slot. I will design the header on the door to be made taller to accommodate a similar fastening of a new cushion to cover the whole door. Also have to take into consideration is that the glove box is taking up the top 9 inches of the console. Embarrassed to post this pic as I obviously have some cleaning to do after a couple years under the cover.... As for that little door on the side of our center consoles? I doubt it will be seeing any use after this...
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:30 PM   #18
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Good Luck brother!

......it finally happened, there are no more secret spots
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:50 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Linesider82 View Post
I agree with rockfish. I don't know anything about the NMEA system buy will be studying it over this year. Saw some good content on THT. Label everything, and I made like RF suggested a diagram of everything, going to laminate it and keep one onboard, and have one in the computer to update as needed.

There are companies that make custom h/s labels, I did that for some wires then just bought white shrink for others and sharpied them in before setting them.
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NMEA 2000, is mostly plug and play once you buy the back bone cable, tees and terminators, there are a few basic rules that apply to get optimum performance and setting on you machine to transmit to it , 1080 is a different cat, and requires a lot more head scratching and actual wiring, most devices dont use that anymore but usually have a port capable of reading it.. I'm not an expert, but I am pretty well versed in its set up, and have a ton of literature about it, we can start another thread if need be so as not to pollute/hijack this one.

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:55 AM   #20
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Thanks all for the ideas. We all get better for the input.
Gilly, the current cushion is fastened with the top roll sliding through a plastic slot. I will design the header on the door to be made taller to accommodate a similar fastening of a new cushion to cover the whole door. Also have to take into consideration is that the glove box is taking up the top 9 inches of the console. Embarrassed to post this pic as I obviously have some cleaning to do after a couple years under the cover.... As for that little door on the side of our center consoles? I doubt it will be seeing any use after this...
cleanliness is over rated Ross!

I often wish I had doors on the front of my console, it gets pretty grubby under there, I just have never found the time ( or wanted to bad enough) to make them..

sounds like you are forming a solid plan.

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 04-20-2021, 08:08 AM   #21
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Instead of getting a T top, you might want to try getting new bimini. My Dad replaced his on his 88’ 20’ Grady overnighter (truly awesome boat!) and it looked pretty good. The foot rest idea makes sense too; legs dangling from the high seats all day was a problem on his boat too.
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