Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

     

Left Nav S-B Home Register FAQ Members List S-B on Facebook Arcade WEAX Tides Buoys Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Right Nav

Left Container Right Container
 

Go Back   Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating » Build Stuff: Custom Plug & Lure Building, Rod Building » Plug Building - Got Wood? » How To and Favorite Plug Forum Guides

How To and Favorite Plug Forum Guides This location is for Plug Forum How-To and Step by Step guides as well as popular informational threads

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 03-11-2005, 06:27 PM   #1
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Duplicator How to

Well here goes nutin. Here are some photos of my duplicator and accessories. I know that I made it out of aluminum and used my machine shop trade but you can do just as good a job with hardwoods, table saw, dado blade, and drill press as long as you take your time and plan. There are a few things that are important in the design and I will mention them as I go. Hopefully you can use the photo's to help build your own. There are many ways to make a duplicator and mine is not an end all but I think this design is very simple and fairly inexpensive and best of all it works. I looked at several design's and incorporated all the things I liked about them into mine. Here goes. Paul

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 12:22 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:30 PM   #2
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
The duplicator
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0001.jpg
Views:	1607
Size:	15.7 KB
ID:	4631  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:31 PM   #3
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
The mounting plate. I am sure you could use Corian, formica countertop, butcherblock, anything flat and stable should work good. A piece of aluminum that size at 1/2 inch thick should run you around 50 bucks. To me that is the way to go.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0038.jpg
Views:	741
Size:	11.9 KB
ID:	4628  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 11:04 AM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:33 PM   #4
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Sideview showing tool follower up against template
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0011.jpg
Views:	963
Size:	11.8 KB
ID:	4625  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:34 PM   #5
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Template mounted on template holder. You have lots of adjustments. Plus you can always move the mounting plate if you want to make larger plugs. When you drill the template to mount on your template holder use a universal distance for all templates. The holes can be a little sloppy because you will tighten them down. First set the template on the holder without any holes drilled yet. Take a look at where the template is in relationship to the stock you are going to turn and the spur center and tail stock. Smaller plugs might be mounted on the holder in a different place as a larger ones. Then mark the template and then drill the mounting holes. This might seem confusing but once you drill one in the wrong place you will see what I mean. Not all the templates will be drilled in the same location. You want to have most of the templates to be in the somewhat same location in relationship to the stock you are about to turn, so you do not have to move the whole duplicator base as much.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0029.jpg
Views:	688
Size:	11.1 KB
ID:	4624  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 12:57 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:36 PM   #6
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Template mounted on holder. Templates are made of maple.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0039.jpg
Views:	637
Size:	11.9 KB
ID:	4623  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:37 PM   #7
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Tool holder. This is the most important part of the duplicator.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0040.jpg
Views:	757
Size:	13.6 KB
ID:	4622  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:38 PM   #8
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Another view. If you are making the holder out of some light stock you might want to drill some holes in the bottomn and fill them with lead to add weight to the holder. The heavier the tool holder the better. You will get less chattering of the tool with the extra weight. It does take some getting used too, to get the so called feel of the holder. You can't just jam the tool bit into the wood or it will grab it. The tool bit is being moved by hand and you need a strong and steady hand to keep from ripping the piece out of the lathe.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0030.jpg
Views:	625
Size:	13.4 KB
ID:	4621  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-11-2005 at 07:33 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:41 PM   #9
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Bottom of tool holder. I used a piece of plastic to keep from having aluminum on aluminum which would gall up after a while. You need to use materials that will allow the holder to slide on the plate, yet not wear down. I also put 45 degree angles on the front of the holder for clearance so you can get closer to the work piece.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0033.jpg
Views:	586
Size:	13.8 KB
ID:	4512  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:48 PM   #10
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Here is one of the critical things when you make the holder. You need to have the tool bit point, or cutting edge, to be in line up and down with the follower point. To say it another way you need to have the follower point and the tool point to be the same distance in from the same edge, say side to side not up and down. Up and down is very important also but side to side is too. That way when you apply the tool to the piece and move it back and forth they will be in unison. You will see what I mean when you turn your first piece.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0015_1.jpg
Views:	724
Size:	12.8 KB
ID:	4620  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 01:02 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:51 PM   #11
MAC
Registered User
iTrader: (0)
 
MAC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,547
That is a phenominal piece of work
MAC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 06:54 PM   #12
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Here is probably the most critical aspect of the holder. The cutting tool and the follower point must be the same distance out from the holder, up and down. You can do this with a square. Push the follower and the tool out till the are both the same. You will need to make it so the tool bit and the follower are both adjustable, in and out, then lock them in place. When you make your tool holder you must make it so the cutting tool is on center. You need to mount your plate first. Then get a measurement from the bottom of the plate to the centerline of the lathe. I did this by measureing up to the tailstock center's point. Then compensate for the size tool you are going to use. That is why I made the tool holder's tool groove at an angle so you can adjust the tool out and it goes up too so you can get it centered. You lock in the cutting tool on center and then you bring out the follower point to the same distance and lock.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0016_1.jpg
Views:	639
Size:	12.5 KB
ID:	4619  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 01:03 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:00 PM   #13
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Here are the tool bits I use. They are lathe tools. I use both carbid and high speed steel, tool steel. They are 60 degree pointed tools that I sharpen to my own specs. A small radius on the tip will give a much better finish than a sharp point. They are much cheaper than the ones sold in the woodworking cataloges. The carbide tool requires a special grinding wheel but the high speed steel can be sharpened with a normal grinding wheel. When it gets dull just stone the edge man.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0025.jpg
Views:	837
Size:	15.2 KB
ID:	4618  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:05 PM   #14
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Template's are easily made by just scanning a plug you want to copy. Print out the picture. Cut along the edge. Lay the photo on your template material. Trace the picture. Cut out on bandsaw. Sand and smooth. Drill the mounting holes and you are ready to go. Fishingbumwannabe,aka Fred, told me about this method. I am also thinking about sealing the surface the tool rides on so it does not wear. I think you would have to make a real lot of plugs for it to wear though because you are really only touching the template with the follower on the final pass over the wood.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0022_1.jpg
Views:	635
Size:	14.5 KB
ID:	4617  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 11:12 AM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:07 PM   #15
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Here is the picture laid on the template material. That is an old Hawg Hunter canal plug I am going to copy. As you first start the turning process make the plug diameter larger than the finished size. Then start moving the template away until you get to the final finished size. I use a dial calipers and measure as I go. Sometimes I need to move just one side sometimes both sides of template. That is where the two sided adjustments come into play. Make sure you sneek up on it or you will be undersize and need to start again. Once you get the final size just tighten everything down and have at it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0042.jpg
Views:	722
Size:	8.7 KB
ID:	4616  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 12:31 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:11 PM   #16
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Here are some of my assorted templates. You can also make a plug free hand on the lathe and then scan it and make up a template to produce copies of your own creation. You will probably make some changes as you use the duplicator. I have made several so far. I am sure you are sick of seeing Frank Zappa by now so that is it. If you need any more details just ask. Go for it. Paul
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0009.jpg
Views:	646
Size:	15.5 KB
ID:	4615  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-11-2005 at 07:27 PM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:28 PM   #17
FlukinUki
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Delaware Co., PA
Posts: 210
Now thats a beautiful piece of machine work. Nice job and enjoy.
FlukinUki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 07:41 PM   #18
justplugit
Registered Grandpa
iTrader: (0)
 
justplugit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: east coast
Posts: 8,592
Smile

Paul,awesome stuff.Thank you.
How are you attaching the base plate to the lathe base?

" Choose Life "
justplugit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 08:11 PM   #19
Nebe
Registered User
iTrader: (0)
 
Nebe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Libtardia
Posts: 21,553
sick- you need some handlebar grips for that
Nebe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 08:31 PM   #20
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
I fabricated some T nuts using aluminum and some large flat head screws to be flush with the plate. They go under the lathe bed just like the T nuts for the tailstock and other lathe bolt on stuff. You can probably use any material that can be tapped so you can bolt the plate down. To bad you don't know anybody in the machine trade . Hopefully others will chime in on how they got around this problem . Paul
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0044.jpg
Views:	474
Size:	9.8 KB
ID:	4527  

Last edited by ProfessorM; 03-12-2005 at 11:06 AM..
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 08:32 PM   #21
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Another
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cimg0046.jpg
Views:	565
Size:	15.9 KB
ID:	4528  
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 08:33 PM   #22
justplugit
Registered Grandpa
iTrader: (0)
 
justplugit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: east coast
Posts: 8,592
Question

"If you only knew someone in the machine business"

Would tapping the lathe base and using those allen wrench screws under each side of the lathe under the what cha call it spinner? and tailstock work,or be in the way?

" Choose Life "
justplugit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2005, 09:07 PM   #23
Slipknot
Super Moderator
iTrader: (0)
 
Slipknot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Middleboro MA
Posts: 17,119
Sweet!


Nice job PM
Slipknot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 08:27 AM   #24
afterhours
Afterhours Custom Plugs
iTrader: (0)
 
afterhours's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: R.I.
Posts: 8,537
that's one of the nicest machines i've seen, super job! btw- i miss frank

www.afterhoursplugs.com

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Afterh...428173?created

Instagram - afterhourscustom

Official S-B.com Sponsor

GAMEFISH NOW

"A GAMEFISH (WHICH STRIPED BASS SHOULD BE) IS TOO VALUABLE TO BE CAUGHT ONLY ONCE"...LEE WULFF
afterhours is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 08:40 AM   #25
PNG
Registered User
iTrader: (0)
 
PNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hard aground
Posts: 1,362
Nice Job MoonUnit
PNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 08:42 AM   #26
Young Salt
Salt of the Earth
iTrader: (0)
 
Young Salt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Suburbia, RI
Posts: 1,025
Great Job PM!!!!
When the carbide tools fail, do they chip or is it just some wear on the edge? how much life are you getting out of them?

I've got a vega - was too lazy to make a duplicator myself- and have been thinking about making my own tool holder for the 35 degree cabride inserts. i know vega sells them - but they are about $80

I make my templates just about the same way, except i cut the paper very rough, then spray adhesive and stick the paper to the template, then i cut it out on the bandsaw.....makes it a bit easier to tell which one is which once you get a bunch of them.
Young Salt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 11:32 AM   #27
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Tools

Youngsalt to be honest with you I have not used any of the carbide tools yet. I have just used the high speed tool so far and it holds up well. You do have to stone the edge a little as it does get dull, but you can do a lot of plugs before it happens. I found wood like mahogany, cherry, rock maple to dull out the HSS tool quicker. I cannot see the carbide chipping unless you bang it up against something. It will probably wear a little on the cutting edge, thus it will need to be touched up periodicly, but should stand up to wood with no problem for a long time. The quality of the carbide also makes a difference too. I machine very hard stainless and they do eventually melt or chip but that is caused usually by me going to fast with the feed and rpm's or a coolant issue. I cannot see any wood we would use being hard enough to cause the tool to fail. I would definately make my own insert tool holder for your Vega. 80 bucks is highway robbery. You should be able to make a holder and then just buy an insert through your work to use in it. Then you do not need to sharpen them just index them in the holder or throw them out and use another insert. Got to be cheaper than 80 bucks. I just write on the template the name of the plug. Paul
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 12:38 PM   #28
justplugit
Registered Grandpa
iTrader: (0)
 
justplugit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: east coast
Posts: 8,592
Talking

Hey Paul, pm'd ya.

" Choose Life "
justplugit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2005, 01:08 PM   #29
ProfessorM
Uncle Remus
iTrader: (0)
 
ProfessorM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
Edit

I have edited some of the text because I thought of a lot of stuff as I read back thru the process, just plain forgot. If you are going to build one you might want to reread the text. Good luck. Paul
ProfessorM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2005, 03:42 PM   #30
reelecstasy
Boston Anglah
iTrader: (0)
 
reelecstasy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sitting on top of the world with my legs hangin free
Posts: 3,322
top shelf Paul...If I could only find a machinist to make it go smoother

Seriously, awesome work...

Used hard and put away dirty....
reelecstasy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin. Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Please use all necessary and proper safety precautions. STAY SAFE Striper Talk Forums
Copyright 1998-20012 Striped-Bass.com