View Full Version : Drilling


Tony1123
01-21-2004, 01:23 PM
I'm just getting started and can use some help,I have a small 10 inch drill press,is there any way I can use this to pre-drill a 10 inch square and have the holes meet? I've tried a square corner jig but since I cannot use the table( not enough room to fit the block and the bit) is there any other way

capesams
01-21-2004, 01:41 PM
u own a lathe:confused: theres another way that's 99.9 percent as good if not better. for me atleast.

RIROCKHOUND
01-21-2004, 01:41 PM
Try a shorter bit from both ends using the square, then maybe just connect the two in the middle at the end without the square?

Tony1123
01-21-2004, 01:44 PM
Yes Cap. I have the Fisch Lathe how hard is it to drill with a lathe?

Nebe
01-21-2004, 01:53 PM
Thats a royobi drill press? Its the same one I use... I went through a bit of a learnign curve, but now I get everyone perfecto...

use a regular bit and your 90° block... drill the regular sized bit slowly down each side until you cant drill anymore... Then with a hand drill, drill out the rest of the blank with your long bit.. go slow and go in and out to allow the shavings to exit the hole.... the slower you go, the straighter the hole will be..
I'll flip the blank about 2 times with the long bit and drill from each direction, This way I know I'm getting all of the shavings out.

good luck:D

capesams
01-21-2004, 02:04 PM
I'll show you after I get home tonite with pic's , so you'll know how both ways.

missing link
01-21-2004, 02:08 PM
Originally posted by Eben
Thats a royobi drill press? Its the same one I use... I went through a bit of a learnign curve, but now I get everyone perfecto...

use a regular bit and your 90° block... drill the regular sized bit slowly down each side until you cant drill anymore... Then with a hand drill, drill out the rest of the blank with your long bit.. go slow and go in and out to allow the shavings to exit the hole.... the slower you go, the straighter the hole will be..
I'll flip the blank about 2 times with the long bit and drill from each direction, This way I know I'm getting all of the shavings out.

good luck:D


do it the same way :D

bspice13
01-21-2004, 02:41 PM
I found that if you start with a brad point bit it doesnt tend to wander.
Just my 2 cents.

ChrisH
01-21-2004, 04:40 PM
Tony,

Drilling with the lathe is the easiest and most accurate. Slip showed me how at the plug-get-together, thanks Slip.

I found a 1/2" drill chuck with key and #2 MT arbor for my Jet mini at this place for $6.00 !!! It works great. I bought the same chuck last year for my drill press and the quality seems pretty good.

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1850-0027&Category_Code=18500230p0

Hopefully with the pics from Capesams you will be on your way.

blackeye
01-21-2004, 06:35 PM
Originally posted by Eben
Thats a royobi drill press? Its the same one I use... I went through a bit of a learnign curve, but now I get everyone perfecto...

use a regular bit and your 90° block... drill the regular sized bit slowly down each side until you cant drill anymore... Then with a hand drill, drill out the rest of the blank with your long bit.. go slow and go in and out to allow the shavings to exit the hole.... the slower you go, the straighter the hole will be..
I'll flip the blank about 2 times with the long bit and drill from each direction, This way I know I'm getting all of the shavings out.

good luck:D

jeez dude, you should be writing for Hustler:humpty:

rocketman
01-21-2004, 07:24 PM
I believe that you can loosen the powerhead, and turn it 180 deg., so it isn't over the base anymore. You might have to screw the base to the table though because it won't be balanced anymore. Then with the powerhead hanging over the edge of the table you can drill anything that will fit under the chuck.:smash:

Nebe
01-21-2004, 08:06 PM
Originally posted by blackeye
jeez dude, you should be writing for Hustler:humpty:

As he thrusted his carbide tipped warrior into her quivering alaskan yellow cedar blank.......:humpty:

seabuggy
01-21-2004, 08:39 PM
I had a drill press like that and I loosened the column at the base. Before I moved it I made reference marks so it could be put back. Now I use jobbers' length drills and drill from both sides. I bought brad point drills (12") from Woodworkers' Warehouse and on the first try the drill bit straightened out. The troughts actually strait. WW refunded my money and recommended jobbers' length. The trick to getting the holes to meet is to have the ends of the blank perfectly square.

ChrisH
01-21-2004, 08:56 PM
blackeye that is some funny #^&#^&#^&#^&e:D :D :D

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:09 PM
http://65.96.115.91/dsc00456.jpg

I'm using a pike I had sitting near the lathe, most plugs can be done in the up coming pic's.

piemma
01-21-2004, 09:13 PM
Just my 2 cents. I always drill with my lathe. I use a 3/16, 6" long brad tip aircraft drill bit. I bought this plastic template at Woodworkers Warehouse that enables me to find the center in any stock round or square.

I drill from both sides and rarely miss. When I am off a bit I can usually re-drill and compensate. The trick is to back off every so often to allow the flutes in the bit to clean themselves. I don't know if that makes sense but the bits tend to wander or walk when the get full of wood. Kinda like chipping away at the hole.:smash:

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:14 PM
.

piemma
01-21-2004, 09:25 PM
Exactly. I drill the stock before I turn it.

missing link
01-21-2004, 09:25 PM
I'm using a pike I had sitting near the lathe, most plugs can be done in the up coming pic's.

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:28 PM
good..fix the rest too.:D

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:33 PM
.

missing link
01-21-2004, 09:33 PM
find your centers , both in the front an tail of the plug

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:38 PM
this is where I put an 1/8 brad point drill bit in the chuck. then drill in only about a 1/2 or so on both ends of the plug holging by hand at this point.http://65.96.115.91/dsc00458.jpg

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:43 PM
http://65.96.115.91/dsc00459.jpg

at this point I have changed the brad point over to an 1/8 long bit.

missing link
01-21-2004, 09:44 PM
resized for ya

missing link
01-21-2004, 09:46 PM
resize again


at this point I have changed the brad point over to an 1/8 long bit.

capesams
01-21-2004, 09:50 PM
http://65.96.115.91/dsc00460.jpg

now I take the tail end of the plug an put it in the pin on the right side of the lathe.

capesams
01-21-2004, 10:01 PM
http://65.96.115.91/dsc00461.jpg

ok. at this point with the tail of the plug in the pin, I slide the whole thing, plug an the right side of the lathe into the longer bit very slowly, only about a 1/2" at a time an then backing off to clear the bit. then push the plug on again,,,back an forth,,, till I'm atleast alittle more than half way threw the plug...then turn the plug around an repeat , you can feel the bit hit the other side of the hole that you have just drilled...take the plug off an get it alittle blow [in the hole] to clear out the dust...this only takes sec.'s when you get going an I've never had a miss.

capesams
01-21-2004, 10:06 PM
what happen to the pic's..their huge.....:confused: ..sam's been home again an been messin with thing's:mad: any help to down size these would be great if you could do it.

missing link
01-21-2004, 10:08 PM
here

missing link
01-21-2004, 10:12 PM
not sure wat order they are... but if you wana put them in ur post ill take mine down....

justplugit
01-21-2004, 10:15 PM
CAPESAMS do you drill your belly holes first with the end squares on before you cut the head square and drill your off center hole?

capesams
01-21-2004, 10:50 PM
I always have to do things the hard way..I through drill first, then draw a line from the nose hole to the tail hole on the bottom of the plug then use the drill press to do the lead an swivel holes,,but I don't use the handle on the drill press. I push the plug onto the bit..I do this because of the curvature[spell] of the body, I'm not producing a 100 plugs so I take my time an do it this way....I do most things by eye an don't use jigs. I want my holes 90 degree's to the body where the holes are an not to the center line of the plug as a whole...in other words if the back of the plug curves down to the tail, I lift the plugs butt up so it's 90 degree's to the bit...this way the grommet sits nice an flat an the swivel is some what pointed to the rear of the plug instead of being straight up an down.....whew!

Karl F
01-21-2004, 11:25 PM
Thanks Steve, got to get me a long 1/8 bit, and a jacobs chuck..
cheaper than buyin' a drill press... for now.
Hey ;) U taking to snacking on Friskies? I see the spoon in that can... yer cats gonna get peesed! ;)

capesams
01-21-2004, 11:39 PM
that's what happen's when the wife doesn't feel like cookin.:(

Tony1123
01-22-2004, 03:54 AM
Capesams just wanted to say thanks for all the great info,it helped alot...I owe ya one.

capesams
01-22-2004, 08:26 AM
any time...hope you finger it out:rolleyes:

IFG
01-22-2004, 11:07 AM
Theres a fifty times easier method thst makes the hole 100% dead center I'll post a pick of my rig tonight
You realy cant free handed it to get a straight true hole i 'll post detailed pics of my rig and process this weekend

justplugit
01-22-2004, 11:37 AM
THANKS CAPESAMS--- I'm starting to get the centers like you said, but sounds like i need a forstners bit to drill like you. To get my bottom line straight i take a square and draw up from the lathe holes on each square,then connect the lines by using a straight edge across the bottom of the plug. I like your idea of the actual drilling to get the proper fit.Thanks again. :D

IFG
01-22-2004, 06:46 PM
I must also advise you that method is unsafe
the drill bit can grab into a rough grain and flex and go right into your hand furhter more the drill bit is prone to snap in that situation. The drill rig is the best method and it is also the safest.

Nebe
01-22-2004, 07:02 PM
Cape sams,
Thanks for taking the time to show us newbies that trick :kewl:

capesams
01-22-2004, 07:13 PM
IFG..u must be prone to hurting yourself. if you go slow an take your time they work very well. bits don't snap cause they feel like it. they only brake because you have forced it into the wood to hard.

IFG
01-23-2004, 07:45 PM
I am not ptrone to hurting myself neither is my father before we were fishermen he was an engineer and I was a amatuer wood worker I have a total devotion to saftey check out my post on how I do it
oh yeah and bits due tend to sanp like that impurities when the are cast cause this or a rough grain will put the bit right through your finger

I have many countlesshe shop with out a single incident.

justplugit
01-24-2004, 11:43 AM
Is there more spliting of the lure blank when the belly holes are drilled before turning? I would think the holes would tend to chip when turning.
THANKS!