yeah well these doors aren't underneath an overhang and I think this is exactly what he did as he talked about "calking" obviously that wasn't enough!

At minimum there should be ice and water shield under sill and out of the house behind the 1x kickboard. During installl 2 thick beads of silicone sealant go under the sill stopping any water from passing under the sill. A sill pan (which is a recommended option) should also be set in a bed of sealant.
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Read the fine print on most manufacturers warranty. No pan, no warranty. We've all done things the same way we were taught by the old timers but building technologies have really come a long way in the last five years with wind load research and synthetic engineering, etc.

It still has to come out to be fixed, even if it is just a better bead of the right material and the installer should own it and while it's out, why not do it right?

Told the new guy that's the wrong way to do it, he says been doing it that way for 10 yrs. and it's right, I says you been doing it wrong for 10 yrs. and good bye!

So any updates? As a carpenter i have been intrigued by this
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for me, I'll use a door pan from now on. Make the homeowners feel good.

I always used lead for door pans and copper pans for windows (when the job required)
My son who runs the hammer end of things has gone to "flexWrap"
http://www.dupont.com/products-and-s...-flashing.html
This stuff is bullet proof IMHO, both doors and windows, passing the IECC2012 is not easy and this stuff helps with that also.

I had a strange install the other day. Had Scott (yj1990) working with me. Client wanted to have new pre hung front entry door replaced without having to remove or disturb existing exterior trim.... So this meant installing from the inside... And the client had provided the door, so it was a question of if he left us enough room to do it when he chose the size. Fortunately when we pulled out the old oak threshold the sill showed absolutely zero signs of having any water contact. and no caulking or pan. It did look like a hand hewn beam, but was only a half inch thick over the joists. Tried to use a new 1/2" on top of it but unit was too tight. Caulking was our chosen option. (ugliest door I ever installed)