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| The Scuppers This is a new forum for the not necessarily fishing related topics... |
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09-11-2006, 08:10 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 71
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concrete ?
I'm putting in some replacememnt windows in my cellar. Problem is that the old metal frames aren't deep enough for the new windows. Also the bottom of the casement sinks down at an angle from the frame so I'll need to build it up flush so that the bottom of the new windows sit tight. Knowwhatimean? I was thinking of drilling in some concrete screws and wrapping it all with some rebar wire as a sort of frame. Question is should I use concrete, or is mortar a better choice?
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09-11-2006, 08:15 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Libtardia
Posts: 21,719
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im no expert,but i would frame in the new window with wood (good rot resistant wood if its close to the ground)and use one of those nifty 22 cal. nail guns designed for concrete nailing... building up concrete is pretty tricky when its hanging upside down and on its side..
ya dig?
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09-11-2006, 08:28 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: RI
Posts: 21,501
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Mark
Also the bottom of the casement sinks down at an angle from the frame so I'll need to build it up flush so that the bottom of the new windows sit tight. Knowwhatimean?
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Often the replacement windows will come with a piece of metal bent into an L shape, but at less than 90 deg. This is caulked into place and seals that gap just below the front of the window.
-spence |
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09-11-2006, 08:42 AM
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#4
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........
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 22,805
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if you were asking me to do it...
i'd take a piece of pressure treated lumber and cut it on an angle with your table saw....
then i'd use tap-con screws to sink it to the cement in pre-drilled holes pushing down
on 20yr grey silicone concrete adhesive
to give you back your flat rough opening.
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09-11-2006, 08:48 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Plymouth, Ma
Posts: 1,405
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If you choose PT make sure its Ground Contact Pressure Treated and is fairly dry or you'll run into substantial shrinkage.
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09-11-2006, 09:59 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 71
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Thanks for your quick replies - I'm headed to Home Depot in a few hours. So it looks like angled PT is the way to go. 50 more projects and then I can fish. Thanks again.
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09-11-2006, 06:29 PM
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#7
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zoom
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Quincy
Posts: 4,145
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I did the same job last year.
Used PT and a table saw to make all the pieces and get the window as tight as posssible. I had to shim the sides too.
Oh yea and about one tube of caulk per window.
My house is almost 100 so there were lots of issues. That spray-in foam worked wonders too.
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~..~..~.. ><((((º>
Things done at the last possible minute are done with the greatest possible information. Procrastination is, therefore, the most efficient means of doing things.
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09-12-2006, 09:03 PM
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#8
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Seldom Seen
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 10,553
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Contractors adhesive to hold window in place, no screws or nails that way.Stops on interior side. When plumb, shim sill angle, prob 11 degrees. Fill rest of void with insullation, trim out with 1x PVC trim board.Caulk. Done
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