Eastern White Pine

[Eric Roach]

When my shop is finally done (I'm the world's slowest carpenter) I plan on learning to build pencils & poppers with Eastern White Pine (EWP).

I've been reading the recent threads about sealers and I'm wondering what might be recommended for a sealer/primer combination for EWP.

I'm starting with EWP instead of a American Yellow Cedar (AYC) because I'd like to avoid the risks associated with cedar dust. Also, I'd just assume avoid the risks associated with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) as a sealer while I'm getting my feet wet in building...I'd hate to burn down my nice new house.

So, again, if any experienced hands can recommend a sealer/primer combo for EWP, I'd be grateful.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

[Charleston]

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

[JFigliuolo]

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by JFigliuolo

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

[JFigliuolo]

Originally Posted by Eric Roach

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

I mix etex up per directions. Thin it with denatured alcohol, 50%.

So if your using 1 ounce resin, 1 ounce hardener, use 1 ounce DA.

Heat up the blanks. Pour the mixture from one cup into another, pouring it over the blank/in the holes. It will be thin and coat quickly.

Hang the blanks to drip bit and dry. DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. It is bit messy. I do it in the garage, then move the blanks into my basement to dry overnight.

[Striperknight]

No dust created by any wood is safe. The only thing meant to go in the lungs is air.

[WoodyCT]

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by WoodyCT

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

Thank you for the detailed advice, Woody.

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by Charleston

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

Hi Bill,

I might get there with both, but I do want to start with something cheap (EWP) and relatively safe.

[pbadad]

Jeff, I been using as you know both sealers. I like the poly/ min.spirits, and the Val /min.spirits. 60/40 cut for both. I used the val for cedars and pine and poly for birch and maple. Both dry quick 2days the most pending temp amd so far hold the gold label Zinseer primer (oil base). I do a 2 coat dip. scotchbrite between coats. I would spray the primer but w.o a spraay booth to rid the cellar of fumes I find dipping easy. Made a cardboard box w. coathanger rods going across the width of the box and the drips go into a roller tray on bottom.I cut a opening in the lower half of one end to facilitate the installation and removal of the tray. After an hour or so I pour the drippings back into the primer can. The 2 coat covered the pine grain completely. lightly sand , clean(wash) w/denatured alcohol and make the plug "PERTY"!