Eastern White Pine

[Charleston]

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

[JFigliuolo]

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by JFigliuolo

I'm using alot of EWP this year. I'm digging the action from the lighter wood with swimmers and bottle darters. I seal with epoxy.

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

[JFigliuolo]

Originally Posted by Eric Roach

What are you using for epoxy and thinner? Do you dip or brush? Just curious. I have Flex Coat, Aftcote and some others in my rod room.

I mix etex up per directions. Thin it with denatured alcohol, 50%.

So if your using 1 ounce resin, 1 ounce hardener, use 1 ounce DA.

Heat up the blanks. Pour the mixture from one cup into another, pouring it over the blank/in the holes. It will be thin and coat quickly.

Hang the blanks to drip bit and dry. DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. It is bit messy. I do it in the garage, then move the blanks into my basement to dry overnight.

[Striperknight]

No dust created by any wood is safe. The only thing meant to go in the lungs is air.

[Karl F]

Originally Posted by Striperknight

No dust created by any wood is safe.

correct, just read the OSHA report on wood dust..
pine dust gives me a sinus infection that is world class...lord knows what else it is doin' to me...

nor is any fumes....from BLO, Tung, gas coming off of epoxy as it is applied primers paints sealers clear coats etc etc etc....

gotta love the tho..

ventilate wear your filtered mask, resperator, use a spray booth with an explosion proof fan motor... dust dollector if ya got it...

be safe with your rags.. ( cap 'em tight in an old jar..cover with water if ya feel the need)

just basic shop safety...like they taught ya in Wood shop...hopefully

and second hand smoke, drunk drivers..idiots in line at DD...
most anything will kill ya...just be carefull out there...
and remember to enjoy.

[numbskull]

EWP isn't cheap (when you buy the clear stuff) but wonderful to turn. Softer and lighter than AYC, not as light or soft as WRC (which is also very allergenic). The pine does contain some pitch. If you heat set your plugs in the oven some may leak out and discolor small spots of the paint and later the epoxy (though this is much more of an issue with sugar pine). No big deal as far as fishing plugs are concerned.

Seal with Polyurethane thinned with MS....about as safe and simple as you can get. I use VAl Oil which is not as good (but I bought 4 gallons worth before I realized PolyU was better).

[WoodyCT]

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by WoodyCT

Pine- Would Musso, Gibbs, Pichney have used so much of it if it weren't good? Hit Lowes or HD for some 2x2 Firring Strips. $1.53 for 8', but you will have to cut out some knots.

AYC - Won't absorb water, or much sealer either, thus it isn't damaged by getting wet. Too expensive to learn with. And not a 'jack of all trades' wood.

Sealers- BLO should be your last option. Everything else offers better properties, as you've read.

Primer- Any good oil based spray such as Rustoleum, OR a shellac based spray like Cover Stain or Bin. Key is LIGHT coats only heavy enough to cover the wood grain. LIGHTLY scuff with a clean Scotchbrite after 24 hours, wipe with whatever solvent your paint uses, let dry, and then paint.

Paint- I'd recommend Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray (black, almond, white, stainless gray) or Rustoleum's paint for equipment and machinery (their John Deer yellow is nice.) Once you get the hang of spray cans go for some Rustoleum Metallics (black, blue, green, copper, silver, gold, bronze... NICE)

Top Coat- If you feel you need it, go with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Cheap and easy. Use and 'acid' brush from the plumbing store.

Have fun learning!

Thank you for the detailed advice, Woody.

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by Charleston

Instead of fearing AYC dust and BLO learn to use it. You will not burn your house down if handled properly.
A good respirator and AYC is your friend.

Hi Bill,

I might get there with both, but I do want to start with something cheap (EWP) and relatively safe.