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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 03-13-2004, 12:10 PM   #31
bassmaster
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slipknot
Thanks Mike, that is truely a patriotic plug
Definately mind blowing
what He said only Holy #^&#^&#^&#^&

Pro Tool Club....
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Old 03-13-2004, 04:27 PM   #32
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very,very nice ff
I want one

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Old 03-13-2004, 05:34 PM   #33
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Holycrapman! That is pretty... no REALLY Awe inspiring! How well does that clear hold up though?

-DAve

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Old 03-13-2004, 06:44 PM   #34
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Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-13-2004, 06:46 PM   #35
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I am speechless that paint job is absolutly awsome and to do it with cans amazing you sir are a tru artist!!!!!!


Thanks for showing how you did that

P.S. I can't find the jaw dropping smiley but if I did there would be about 6 of them. This si the best I can find


Steve
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Old 03-13-2004, 06:58 PM   #36
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That is just truely amazing. As numerous others have stated you are an artist
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Old 03-13-2004, 07:14 PM   #37
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Thats a bad moe foe! Prop's for you dude.....in stainless.
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Old 03-13-2004, 07:18 PM   #38
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Old 03-13-2004, 07:54 PM   #39
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the flag plug was not done with spray cans,,,but theres no reason it couldn't be.

the enamel clear on the first plug is pretty durable.if you plan to "fish" the plug it's a great choice.but it's enamel so it never really "cures".
the clear on the flag plug is 2 part eurathane automotive clearcoat. virtually indestructable.when it's fully cured you could soak the plug in laquer thinner and it wouldn't harm it{provided the thinner couldn't get underneath the the clear to soften up the basecoat.
i have another clear thats so hard, paint stripper won't even touch it. but it's a pain to work with. used for commercial vehicles,trash trucks,heavy equip. etc.

Last edited by thefishingfreak; 03-13-2004 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 03-13-2004, 10:31 PM   #40
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FishingFreak....how is that spray enamel to the touch after it drys? Does it dry pretty good or will it mark if you rub it?

The stuff in the spray can?

Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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Old 03-13-2004, 10:34 PM   #41
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no it's tough!!!!


if you forcefully jam your thumnail into it ,,,it will leave a mark.
but it dosn't smudge.

with that stuff, i'de want about 5 coats{4 dry coats and one wet one}

the 2 part stuff 2 coats
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Old 03-13-2004, 10:37 PM   #42
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Thanks FF...super nice work. Something for me to aspire to.

Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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Old 03-14-2004, 04:24 PM   #43
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Freak U must be a tank artist or custom Bike Boat Paintin specialist.the Flag plug Make U the DaVinci of the board.Paints an finishes is the one thing I wish I knew more about.I didn't know enamel dosen't really cure.U go into the paint store an ask questions an all they wanna know is what room are u painting.I am a craftsman An the paint learning curve Is frustratin.I didn't know bout the dry technique.sounds good.I would be interested in the tougher clearcoat.U can PM me if u like.
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Old 03-18-2004, 01:30 AM   #44
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God Bless America ...
Now that's sweet!!
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Old 03-18-2004, 09:07 AM   #45
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Please post your stuff on the "some plugs" thingie, they definetly deserve to be there. I am in awe, plain and simple. That flag plug is a "best in show" if I ever saw one. Thank you very much for showing it. You get the Blue Ribbon.

Why even try.........
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Old 03-18-2004, 01:30 PM   #46
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ABSOLUTELY REMARKABLE!
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Old 03-18-2004, 07:08 PM   #47
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Fishingfreak,
What do you mean by 3 coats of dry spray?
Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2004, 07:57 PM   #48
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dry spray, meaning,,,,
back the gun,or spray can up, away from the plug and spray. don't worry about trying to make it shiney.
the colors are used as a "basecoat" and there not meant to be shiney. thats the clear coats job.
basicly instead of porking on a thick coat and waiting for it to flash off. you put on a couple dry coats.that way you never have to worry about getting any runs.

see,,,,,,,"dry",,,
no shine, at all.

Last edited by thefishingfreak; 03-19-2004 at 12:36 AM..
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Old 03-18-2004, 08:11 PM   #49
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Gotcha, thanks for the quick answer to keep me learnin?

Ya can't fool me though Fishinfreak,i know that plug's gotta be blown glass! Awesome work! Thank you!
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Old 03-18-2004, 08:17 PM   #50
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ya, well when you do it it seems to be a fine spray, whenever I have tried that with spray cans, I get large dropplets instead of fine atomization. Maybe your caps are different or mine suck, or do I not have to worry about lumpyness?
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Old 03-18-2004, 09:07 PM   #51
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don't worry about the lumpyness, the clear will hide it.
and really shake the ba-jesus' out of the can. if it says shake vigorously for two minutes, shake it for four
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Old 03-18-2004, 11:19 PM   #52
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ever try brushing on that auto clear coat....I'm head towards that. going to give it a shot.

napa auto clear any good? ,,,slow, med or fast cure,,plus flex ?

Last edited by capesams; 03-18-2004 at 11:21 PM..

BOAT fish do count.
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Old 03-18-2004, 11:51 PM   #53
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i'll asume napa clear is 2 part?
fast cure for brush on, definitly
no "reducer" nec.
no! flex!!!!!!!! your not painting a flexible rod. or plastic car bumper.
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Old 03-19-2004, 07:31 AM   #54
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I would think you'd need a drop or two o flex cause the wood plug will swell an shrink??

yes,,,she's a two part.

working pot life on fast cure....68 dagree's let's say?

Last edited by capesams; 03-19-2004 at 07:34 AM..

BOAT fish do count.
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Old 03-19-2004, 11:40 AM   #55
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see if they'll give you the product information sheet for it.
it will tell you pretty much everything as far as pot life, dry time and compatible surfaces.
i would say you shouldn't need flex? i think you guys use some pretty tough wood? the eurathane clear i use has a little flexibility to it.
ppg recomends for plastic bumpers, if there on the car already,no flex is needed. but if you paint them off the car, add flex.
i think its cause of handeling and twisting it might crack.

they have some kind of spray contraption. looks like a glass jar with a hand pump on the bottom? might be worth a try? but then again, you'll need to clean the thing out with thinner.

you'll proibably get good results brushing it on. you might need to spin the thing untill the clear sets up.
heck we use little rollers to apply primer, less mess, no overspray, and no masking.

most of ppg's hardners and reducers end in the temp. range for use i.e.
dt870=70 degrees,dt 880=80 degrees, dch3070=70 degrees etc.....

Last edited by thefishingfreak; 03-19-2004 at 11:44 AM..
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Old 03-19-2004, 11:49 AM   #56
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This information is extremely helpful!...

Thanks Mike!
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:16 PM   #57
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I tell ya I hate reading...I spin the plugs while putting on the c-coat....wood comes an go's[flexes] that's why I'm thinking a bit of flex wouldn't hurt...to hard a finish an something is going to give[clear coat]. by brushing it on, I hope to do away with having to deal with 5 gals of thinner to clean out the sprayer.Plus the thinner will stink up the house to much.

BOAT fish do count.
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Old 03-21-2004, 05:20 PM   #58
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Hardware

From the looks of it, you're shaping your plugs freehand with tools, sanding blocks, etc. It looks like you have two holes on the belly, nose and from what I can see at the tail. What are you doing for wiring the plug?
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Old 03-21-2004, 08:03 PM   #59
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steelhead, go to this thread and read it

http://www.striped-bass.com/vbulleti...threadid=13007
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Old 03-21-2004, 09:27 PM   #60
thefishingfreak
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steelhead
that "spray bomb" plug is the very first plug to come out of the mold "the test plug" it was sitting arround, so i figured why not mess arround with some paint?


the flag plug already has the wire and lead inside it

Last edited by thefishingfreak; 03-22-2004 at 12:56 AM..
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