3 Questions?

[GooGoo Man]

After seeing numbskulls surfsters, I have to make a few, so here are my questions.

1) Are they tail weighted?

2) I believe the nose screws are not needed, but I would like to do a couple with them. Is there an easy way to drill for them, It seems that if the drilling is off just a tiny bit the lip would be crooked (I suppose I could elongate the lipholes & make them slots) any suggestions.

3) My last question is, what kind of clear coat do most people use?
Not the sealer or the final finish but the clear coat before the final finish (after paint) . I was using helmsman spray but it tends to yellow after time, I was thinking of trying the createx clear gloss any suggestions.

[scottw]

can only refer to #3...I just noticed in my WASCO catalogue that Envirotex has a spraycan version of their product, I was unaware of it previously, if you are finishing with ETEX this might be what you are looking for to tie everything in before twirling them? I dip mine in Ceramithane but I haven't been around long enough that anyone should take my advise on that...better left for a veteran of many swims...

[gone fishin]

I think Ceramithane is water based and not recomended for surfaces subject to water. I think salt water will eat up your hard work.

[numbskull]

Most surfsters are not tail weighted. CCBC did make one with a massive slug of lead, but I own one and it doesn't swim very well.

I don't know how to accurately drill the screw holes. I'd probably just use the lip as a template on top of the slope, drill perpendicular to the slant of the slope and start the holes a 1/16th further forward to allow for the angle before they reach the slot.

I used to use Krylon Clear and thought it was pretty good, until this site ruined my life by introducing me to System Three Clear Coat.

[scottw]

probably should have noted that I don't finish w/ Ceramithane, I use Envirotex and I'd like to give the system3 a try, but I mix Ceramithand in with the paints that I apply (Createx, Apple Barrel, Delta, it has great bonding characteristics keeps things from lifting and I'll give the a dip prior to a final coat w/ Etex, the lable for the Ceramithane states "use on interior and exterior wood, metal and masonry, use outside on wood, highly polished metals...., protects outside metal fixtures...,protects masonry, concrete, terrazzo"...I stay away from solvent based stuff, especially sprayed solvent based stuff, this is the first WB poly I've found with these qualities, maybe BS but I've been using it for other work for about a year with good results,

[The Dad Fisherman]

No weight in the troublemaker Surfsters.

PM Sent on the Lips

I use the E-tex in a can for the scratch coat and have never had a problem with it....but make sure you do scuff it up before the clear or it will peel.

[scottw]

hey Dad, just wondering, is it the final etex coat that peels after the fact or the spraycoat "scratch" that peels when applying the etex finish?...

[The Dad Fisherman]

Its the final coat that was peeling, not the scratch coat. but once I started scuffing up the scratch coat, problem went away.

[scottw]

I guess it seals up enough that subsequent coats can't burn in, that's good to know, the spray can version is recommended as finish or an undercoat for the two part...

[GooGoo Man]

Thanks Guys,

I appreciate the advice, I am going to try the spray etex for the scratch coat, no tail weight, I will be posting my results in about a week. Thanks again.

[EricW]

Originally Posted by GooGoo Man

Thanks Guys,

I appreciate the advice, I am going to try the spray etex for the scratch coat, no tail weight, I will be posting my results in about a week. Thanks again.

I've used the etex spray as a final coat. It works pretty well, and it would also make a nice scratch coat. If you want it clear and not cloudy, make sure it is 70 and not at all humid. Which brings me to my other point, I only use it outside and upwind because this is the worst smelling stuff I have ever used.

[GooGoo Man]

EricW, Thanks for that info, I would never have guessed that it would smell so bad (based on the 2 part etex). It was also great meeting you at plugfest, you have an awesome googoo collection.

There were a couple of big daddy's for sale on Ebay
they were the black & yellow swirl, one sold for $257 & the other one sold for $275, unbelievable, I think I paid about $25 for my last one (15 years ago). Thanks again.

[EricW]

Originally Posted by GooGoo Man

EricW, Thanks for that info, I would never have guessed that it would smell so bad (based on the 2 part etex). It was also great meeting you at plugfest, you have an awesome googoo collection.

There were a couple of big daddy's for sale on Ebay
they were the black & yellow swirl, one sold for $257 & the other one sold for $275, unbelievable, I think I paid about $25 for my last one (15 years ago). Thanks again.

No problem. If you can get a nice dry day, if you put 3-4 coats of that etex spray on a plug you get a real nice thin shiny finish that holds up pretty well. I've got a couple that I have used for a couple seasons and they still look good.

I also enjoyed meeting you at plugfest. You brought some great plugs to see. I did see those swirls on Ebay. They seem to go up and down. Sometimes they sell for 75-100 and sometimes way more. In any event way too much....They were really nice ones. Please post pics of your plugs. Always fun to see new stuff.

[Highpockets]

Good questions Goo-Goo. I have a bunch of those Surfster lips and Numskulls post had me thinking about making some too. So those things are not weighted at all? No belly weight? As far as drilling for the lips, I think I'll just epoxy and through wire mine. I know I could never drill those holes properly even though they look cool with the screws.

[GooGoo Man]

I am going to make a couple of surfsters "old school style", I am also going to attempt to match the paint color to a 5 3/4" ccbc I bought on E-bay. Will post soon.