Minor details I can't seem to find

[ProfessorM]

I would suggest maple as that is the species that was used without lead by some of the builders of the past for that purpose. Soft maple seems to be used by some of the builders nowadays. I am sure some of the more knowledgeable dater builders will chime in.

[Zeal]

Sorry, I forgot to mention the lure size range I am looking at is 5 - 7 inches as well if that makes any more of a difference in the responses.

Yeah I was thinking of maple, soft maple or there is just a plain maple? I read that soft maple is known for absorbing a lot of sealant which added more weight to the lure as well, does that go for only for that type of wood?

[Tagger]

for darters I've had success using birch ... Hard maple worked well for a little while but high % of splits .. Do either to splitting on impact of water or thru wiring and wrapping arse loop to tight pulling nose loop in like a wedge .. I was going to try again this winter, birch with stainless screw eyes.. good luck ... A plug that worked the bottom well at a slow retrieve was a Floyd Roman Nike 3 ounce,, but I wanted to make the smaller size .. couldn't win one off epay and dropped it ..

[nightfighter]

Originally Posted by Tagger

A plug that worked the bottom well at a slow retrieve was a Floyd Roman Nike 3 ounce,, but I wanted to make the smaller size ..

PNG is the Roman Nike guru. He gave me a "blem" (ya right. it's beautiful...) at Plugfest 3 or 4 years ago. I've swum it a couple times, but it resides in my show collection where I can see them all winter. PNG is who you want to talk to Eddie.

As for the original question; maple's moisture content varies more than birch, as far as what I have been able to buy for stock. While I am a neophyte, I like my stock to be as dry as possible before turning. More stable wood that way, but means it will absorb more sealant.... As for your wanting the plug to sinkl to a certain depth and stay there, I think you need to weight it, at least to offset the natural buoyancy of that species of wood.

[numbskull]

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

I understand the depth control variables, the main concern is that heavier wood = sinks more than wanted with hardware on it and heavily affects the motion.

I know it sounds odd, but I have a bunch of split shots laying around, would using them as the lure weight be feasible (sorry I watched a lot of Macguyver growing up)?

Adding weight, you put weight in the tail for the lures including the darters or you need weight in the belly as well?

This advice is really great, I really appreciate it.

[Tagger]

Originally Posted by Zeal

I understand the depth control variables, the main concern is that heavier wood = sinks more than wanted with hardware on it and heavily affects the motion.

The farther back you put the line tie, the more a darter will dive also .. Well sought after Musso/Pichney darters were unweighted . Hate to sound like a broken record but if you do go the unweighted route might consider hydro orientating .. damm .. opened that can of worms again ..

Yes Paul,, I I think thats the size .. I know that PNG guy a little ...

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

For needles, do you typically weight the tail and the belly or just the tail? I am using Maple for the wood and aiming for around 5"-6" range, just kind of unsure where to add weight into the needle body. Aiming to make the needle a sinker not a floater.

[numbskull]

Most needles have a tail weight and a belly weight, set up so they sink at a 30-45 degree angle.

Time for you to try the search function, however. Tons of stuff you will learn easily if you do.