Quote:
Originally Posted by pbadad
Well I done a dozen bats. ash bats with a primer coat cut 30% w/#1 thinner. Dry for 2 days sand w/320 paper clean w/ achohol then a finish cut. Extremely sdhiney and hard coat. the longer it dries the harder it seems to get. I did a couple of painted bats. Primer coat, sand 320 then full uncut coat. They look awsome. The only con is the effort I need to do to get these results. There is a eco friendly product called Eco-tuff clear coat. Waterbase and tintable. Has the hard finish like KBS, no odor and 1/4 the price. haven't tried it but will try this product also.
|
OK heres the deal. It's been over a year and a half coating and painting baseball bats. extreemly hard and diurable finish. I do thin the [product approx. 10-20% with their Number 1 thinner. Foam brush the thinned coat as a primer/sealer. Scuff the primer/sealer coat with 320 grit and a gray pad. Clean with denatured alcohol then coat with a full coat of KBS clear coat. Their are times I do a second coat for a deeper finish. My bats are funtional and asthetically appealing. My users mainly ex college ball players and minor leaguers swear that the ball seems to fly/rebound of the bat because of the Diamond Clear Coat. Whatever it's easy to apply. I still don't spray it because of no explosion proof spray booth. The one con I found of this product is the shelf life after it's open. Yes sealing the can with clear wrap is one way to keep it from getting hard I finally gave up and have poured all the contents into a canning jar and vacuum pack it with my vacuum sealer food saver. Drawing out the air keeps the product w/o the skimming coat and possible hard contents. This stuff runs for me w/shipping 57.00 per quart. gotta be able to keep from thowing money out in the garbage. i could use a clear lacquer to c oat bats but I believe this product gives the bat an extra edge. when a customer ask for a colored bat I use the thinned product then let dry for 3-4 days then scuff and paint with enamel based paint. Recoat after 4 days to let the paint release any gases then apply a full strength coat. No pealing and/or comeba cks. sorry to get off the beaten path on plugs but this product is waterproof. Use at least 2 coats, scuff between coats. I would dip the diamond clear coat. 2 dips. You can dip w/in the same day. It's moisture cure so humidity doesn't hinder curing. Drys w/in 2 hours to touch. It's not the depth finish of epoxy but I've got a couple plugs done for experimenting and it's fine for them. My bitch is the lack of shelf life if air gets into container. I've talked with company reps on a different way to package for smaller uses i.e. a tapper can to draw product or a sealing can that can be hooked up with a simpler vacuum device.
Threaded Mode