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Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general

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Old 02-07-2003, 11:48 AM   #31
Megabyte
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Van,

These would be great for retrieving rigs stuck on the bottom. I use a steel grapping hook with a shackle (hook around my stuck line) big enough to "slide" down my stuck fishing line. I raise it and lower it a couple of time and it always hooks onto my 9er's rigs. the bad part is my grapping hook is made of steel (rust,rust,rust).

This would make a great replacement in 3/16 or 1/4" and serve 2 purposes.

Let me know if you decide to make them up. Otherwise I going to have one made, probably 1/4".

Neat idea. Your next career has been launched.

Enjoying Life !
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:53 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by Megabyte
Neat idea. Your next career has been launched.
Thanks, but I don't think I'll quit my day-job just yet!!!!

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Old 02-07-2003, 11:58 AM   #33
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very serious

its almost like plugs buy a gibbs or a jhabs by a production anchor or buy a quincy van anchor custom to fit your needs id be interested cause of the flexibility of it to get unhooked, great idea!
stainless!!
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Old 04-19-2003, 07:42 PM   #34
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more anchor questions......do I need a chain on the grapnel? length? Is three feet of chain on main and grapnel enough?
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Old 04-19-2003, 07:50 PM   #35
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Chain helps lay the line down to get a good set. I think I have about 3 feet, I'll check.....
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Old 04-19-2003, 08:18 PM   #36
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At least 4 feet on your main anchor.

None if your gonna use the throw anchor off the stern.
(like in my artistic pic)

Is that what you mean ?

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Old 04-19-2003, 10:37 PM   #37
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Van,

If you decide to make a few I
will take one. 24 foot boay at 6,000 lbs or so. Name your price.
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Old 04-21-2003, 08:21 AM   #38
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I'm thinkin about it.

If I go into a "production" mode, there will be some upfront costs
and I need to do the math. I may not be able to sell enough of them. (I'm not sure if there is really a market for them) but if I could get it into a catalog ...then.....

Let you know.

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Old 04-21-2003, 05:46 PM   #39
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Van, is chain used on the grapnel?
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:21 PM   #40
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Yo dude use a cinder block,then you,ll have more money for gas///////////////////
Enjoy=====About Time!!!!!



ENJOY WHAT YOU HAVE !!!

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Old 04-21-2003, 06:21 PM   #41
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Goose:

No chain,, so its easier to throw and retrieve.

I just insert a rope eye directly to the hook, and splice the line.

I'll post a pic later.

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Old 04-21-2003, 08:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by clamdigger
Yo dude use a cinder block,then you,ll have more money for gas

Dude, how do ya figure......I started out useing one block, it broke on the first throw. Now I bring about 6 or 7 blocks......waaaaay more gas
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Old 04-21-2003, 09:53 PM   #43
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sparkplugs for sinkers

ENJOY WHAT YOU HAVE !!!

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Old 04-22-2003, 09:52 PM   #44
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MY mistake I think the first version I spliced right to the hook.
In the second version i used a shackle.

For the third version I'll keep the shackle. But I usually wire it so it cant unscrew. you can see how much thinner the wire is than the original.

Here is the pic.
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:55 AM   #45
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Van ...

I checked out some 1/4" and 3/8" SS. The 1/4" seems too flexible and the 3/8" seemed impossible...<<??>>

...how could 3/16" have possibly worked for you? Are you fishing strong currents? I imagine the movement of the water bouncing the weight of the boat alone would be enough to un-bend 1/4" nevermind 3/16"....????

Am I missing something here?

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Old 04-24-2003, 10:08 AM   #46
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Bloo:
Let me check the "exact" thicknesses of the anchors I've made.

The one in the first pic was way too strong and if 3 tines hook on good, I could barely get it out with 175 horses pulling on it "hard".

The one in the last pic worked OK, but it was a bit light and occasionally came unhooked, with bouncing.

If your trying to bend a piece by hand and it seemed flimsy, try bending 2 pieces at at time, because at least 2 should be caught for a good set.

I will check tonight and post later.

V.

Last edited by Van; 04-24-2003 at 10:10 AM..

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Old 04-24-2003, 10:40 AM   #47
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Van,
You do know that traditionally those things were made with re-bar, which bends a lot easier than stainless? They usually also add some concrete above the tines to aid in setting.

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Old 04-24-2003, 10:52 AM   #48
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Yup, Back a few posts I think I mentioned that. Biggest problem--
RUST-RUST-RUST. And thickness/weight.. Rebar is over 1/2 thick, its not weight I wanted, just holding power.

The heavy anchor in the pic near the start of this thread I used for maybe 5 years until I decided to make a smaller one that would not hang up and be so hard to release/unbend. Notice there is NO RUST. Being a materials scientist, I selected 304 and welded with 316.
Although 316 rod would be even more corrosion resistant, the cost did not justify it. So I made out of 304 and it worked great.

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Old 04-24-2003, 04:18 PM   #49
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Van,
I guess I should have read the entire thread first A lot of guys use very similar anchors for anchoring on wrecks, same principal. I've been thinking about getting one. But if you anchor on deeper water wrecks the weight becomes an advantage to getting the thing down quickly, so it hits the wreck. I'd be interested if you start making them.

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Old 04-24-2003, 05:17 PM   #50
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..thanks Van. "(exactly)"...what I expected.

...it finally happened, there are no more secret spots
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Old 04-24-2003, 05:19 PM   #51
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Thats a good idea too. I have only used my as a second anchor to hold the boat in position near rockpiles. (not swaying into rocks is a good thing). I would not trust it as a main anchor usless like you said in deep water on a wreck. It would be better than losing another danforth for sure.

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Old 04-27-2003, 09:45 AM   #52
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OK I finally got around to measuring the wire sizes on the anchors I've made.

The one I posted early was too heavy and real hard to retrieve if it hooked 2 or more tines. It is 7/16"

The one I posted with the line on it i made last year and is a bit too light. It is 1/4". Although it did work OK, but when the current/wind was strong it pulled out a few times.

So the one I just finished which should be perfect for my application. It is 5/16"

I have one more piece which I may make into another anchor this year, if I think I am still too light,but I don't think it will be a problem. It is 3/8".

There you have it. Feel free to copy my design and make one up for yourself. If i go into the anchor business, I'l let you know.

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Old 04-28-2003, 09:15 AM   #53
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I broke down and bought a mighty-mite anchor this weekend (saw it at west marine thought of Vans anchor) and just eye spliced 150' of line to it (no chain) for a fishing anchor. Having trashed a number of danforths in my day this bendable hook is a good idea. 74 bucks for the anchor. I think Vans stainless anchor is made with more "love" and stronger materials but the mighty mite is pretty decent. It has 1/2" aluminum tines and a 2" center Aluminum tube filled with lead. It weighs 12 lbs and the tines are not as easy to bend as you think, you need to wedge it in something and really lean on it.
There is also a mounting bracket available (that I have to order) that allows it to fit nicely in my motor well. (Its not something you want flopping around.)
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Old 04-28-2003, 10:51 AM   #54
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Yea,, like I said I know it has already been done.

What I do is put my main anchor down, back in (carefully) to the rocks. Hold the boat in place in reverse, and throw the SS anchor at an angle towards the rocks and wind/current pull till it grabs and tie it off.

I can probably throw it 20 feet.
I also use thinner line to throw it further.

Your gonna have massive arms if you start throwing a 12 lb anchor that far. LOL.

Do they rate it for boat size or holding power?
What size line came with it? Looks like 3/8"
Questions, questions....
Oh yea, and when can I come with my boat and fish with you in your area ?

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Old 04-28-2003, 11:33 AM   #55
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This is the biggest anchor they make 20 to 22-25' They make a smaller anchor for up to 18' ft boats...I think it is 8 lbs or so.

The anchor comes with no line, but I bought 150' 7/16th nylon and eye spliced a SS thimble and just backsplice at the other end. My main anchor is a dandforth with 1/2" nylon. I know there is some overkill there, but I like a little overkill in my line. My boat is 23' and is about 5300# or so when loaded .

I plan to use this as my anchor most of the time when fishing. Like I said I have pulled up some really twisted danforths just anchoring in the reefs while chunking. Once I ripped off one of the flukes altogether(with a bigger boat). (It gets expensive aftter a while repairing/replacing anchors several times a season. Also it is a pain when they get really stuck and you have to muscle it out.)

I don't think I could throw this very far while standing on wet deck (10-12' maybe) but throwing it was really not my intent. I just want to have it grab and be able to fix it should it become bent.

I like your rig, but they are hard to come buy and I am not rigged up to weld stainless.....
one suggestion...Ya gotta change that ugly galv shackle to matching SS one! .

As far as fishing out my way....I am sure our paths will cross. The name of my boat is "Low Profile", (yellow 23 SC for now...) if you see me (and I am sure you will...) hail me down on the radio. I will be working the fluke (hopefully) with my kids on Lucas shoal area and bass in there typical haunts.
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Old 04-28-2003, 12:04 PM   #56
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Sounds like it will be perfect for you.

Yes I will take your advice and change that shackle.

In the past I also spliced right to the anchor with a thimble, but
I keep changes sizes so rather than resplice all the time, it was easier with the shackle.

Keep in touch let me know how it works...
WON'T BE LONG NOW.,

V.

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Old 04-28-2003, 01:47 PM   #57
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Sandman,
Do you use a ball and ring set up on your anchor line? If not try it, it will greatly reduce the number of bent anchors and your back will love you for it.

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Old 04-28-2003, 06:21 PM   #58
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mako,

No I haven't tried a ball and ring. I know the offshore guys who anchor up use them and will abondon it while fighting a big fish and retrieve it later but I have to be honest I am not sure exactly how to set it up.
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Old 04-29-2003, 06:47 AM   #59
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Sandy,
Setting it up is pretty easy. Splice about two and half to three feet of line to the bottom of the ball and then splice a biiig snap on the other end of the line. The way it works is you put the stainless ring over the rode and than snap the ball through both eyes of the ring, so it can't come off the rode. Then throw the whole thing overboard. Run the boat up at and angle to the anchor line until it comes taught and then steer directly away from the anchor. What happens is that the ball slides down the rode until it is directly over the anchor and then the bouyancy of the ball pulls the anchor straight up. Much less likely to bend flukes when you're pulling straight up. When the anchor is all the way up the flukes will catch in the ring and you'll notice that the ball is crashing around much more than before. then you just stop the boat and pick up the line.

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Old 04-29-2003, 04:10 PM   #60
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Nice boat, good luck with her.

See you out there.
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