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DIY - Forum Do It Yourself for Non-Fishing Items

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Old 04-08-2014, 12:03 PM   #1
Ian
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Linoleum

Ripping out the floor in my kitchen and got down to a potentially worrisome layer of water damaged flooring. Anyone have experience with the black crap on this floor? Especially before I attack this bad boy with a demo blade.

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Old 04-08-2014, 12:32 PM   #2
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Are you restoring the old floor boards ? Lots of sanding belts and it will come off during the sanding
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:41 PM   #3
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As long as you don't find 9x9 tiles(asbestos), have at it
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:07 PM   #4
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Are you restoring the old floor boards ? Lots of sanding belts and it will come off during the sanding
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Nope. Cutting that floor out... Got down through two layers of 1/4" plywood to find a rotted out 5/8" layer of particle board subfloor. Looks like they pulled something up and tried to scrape away the stuff and then just gave up and went over it with the flooring. Wasn't expecting to have to remove so much floor, but in the end it will be worth it.

Particle board subfloor.... ugh

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Old 04-08-2014, 06:47 PM   #5
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The black crap is old adhesive. Circular saw, sawzall, and a couple blades, both wood and metal for sawzall. Cut a small square to get circular saw depth set correctly. Check in basement to be sure that no pipes are up hard against the subfloor. Assuming you have already pulled the baseboard. A good catspaw that is 12" or longer will be very useful. If subfloors run under walls, you have to consider where to terminate your cut as you will want to have good support under the seam. Always best along a joist. Not always possible.

Oh, the black crap will heat up and end up all over your sawblades. It will also have gotten soft enough fom being cut that it will get on your hands when you grab the cut edge to pull up. Cheap gloves are suggested.

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Old 04-08-2014, 07:46 PM   #6
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The black crap is old adhesive. Circular saw, sawzall, and a couple blades, both wood and metal for sawzall. Cut a small square to get circular saw depth set correctly. Check in basement to be sure that no pipes are up hard against the subfloor. Assuming you have already pulled the baseboard. A good catspaw that is 12" or longer will be very useful. If subfloors run under walls, you have to consider where to terminate your cut as you will want to have good support under the seam. Always best along a joist. Not always possible.

Oh, the black crap will heat up and end up all over your sawblades. It will also have gotten soft enough fom being cut that it will get on your hands when you grab the cut edge to pull up. Cheap gloves are suggested.
Thanks! I'm 2 7-1/4" demo blades through the job, hoping two more do the trick. Those carbide teeth are no match for screws! At $15 a blade I wish they held up better
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:47 PM   #7
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Particle board subfloor.... ugh
They suck. Come up in 1 inch pieces. I had to go around my whole cottage with a skill saw and rip out the subfloors to the floor joists as previous owners never ventilated the basement and they rotted from below and was easier, yeah right easier, just cutting out and replacing with new plywood.

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Old 04-09-2014, 05:28 AM   #8
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i hope your wearing knee pads
if not you'll pay a hefty price
later, when your much older....
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #9
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They suck. Come up in 1 inch pieces. I had to go around my whole cottage with a skill saw and rip out the subfloors to the floor joists as previous owners never ventilated the basement and they rotted from below and was easier, yeah right easier, just cutting out and replacing with new plywood.
I actually found a system that is working pretty well. The floor is two layers of plywood stapled and screwed to the thick particle board. In the other side of the kitchen I just ran the blade down through the plywood and half way into the particle board, and the 12-15" squares I cut come up all in one piece... no chunks of the sawdust to worry about... but the blade doesn't like the process: oh well. Should have the whole floor up by tonight.

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