Etex problem

[Eric Roach]

So many process variations, goes to show many ways to reach the same end.

Here is my process for coating one lure, which is the same process I use in rod-building:

1. Using denatured alcohol & Kimwipes, clean brush, mixing cup, tips of syringes, mixing cylinder, foil cup and needle.
2. Let E-tex sit in warm water bath to slightly thin.
3. Draw equal amounts of E-tex parts with syringes (3 cc each), and squirt into mixing cup. I make sure and wipe the side of the cup with the syringe tip to get that last, tiny bit into the mix.
4. The mixing cylinder goes in the mixing cup, which then goes into the epoxy mixer. The mixer is turned on -- I set a timer for 5 minutes.
5. Once mixed, cylinder is removed and cleaned.
6. Epoxy is poured into foil cup.
7. If there are any bubbles at all, they are lightly hit with a small butane torch.
8. I take care to not dab the brush into the epoxy when picking it up to apply -- dabbing adds bubbles.
9. Once applied, I hit any lingering bubbles lightly with the butane torch, and I pick out any dust hairs on the surface with a needle.
10. The lure goes on the spinner.

Misc. Comments

• The foil cup dissipates heat which extends pot life.
• I use a butane torch to eliminate bubbles instead of a heat gun because I feel the gun blows around too much dust.
• I use Envirotex spray over any iffy paints (e.g. Rust-Oleum Colorshift and some metallics) to give the E-tex epoxy a compatible surface. I also use the spray if I mixed paint brands or solvent bases.
• My spinner has lights as a heat source, but I do not turn up the heat until the E-tex has spun for 8 hours or so. I've messed-up some finishes by applying too much heat, too early.