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Old 12-05-2015, 04:30 PM   #1
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Snow blower help

I have a POS Craftsman 7.75hp guessing 4-5 Yo I'll prime it and it will fire up on half a pull and stay lit on full choke.
With said I have pulled the carb off and dooshed it with Q tips and carb cleaner. I can run it to the second down from choke but it will sputter for a few min.then die.

I have also pulled the plug,cleaned and checked the gap.


Any help would be highly appreciated.

Live bait sharp hooks and timing is all you need
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:34 PM   #2
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If you want I have a Craftsman mower under the deck used about 6 times. I could park it next to your snow blower? Just let me know but you have to pick it up.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:58 PM   #3
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Bob, seriously look for an older (1970s even) Ariens with cast iron gear box. 24" 7hp minimum, electric start and chains are nice options and can be added.... Mine is a beast. Was repowered before I bought it. Paid 400.00 Worth every cent. You do not want the model with the auger down on the body though... here is a link to one the same as mine, but no electric start nor repowered. Don't be afraid of its appearance. http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/5343678209.html
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:36 PM   #4
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Old fuel?
Might have to remove the carb and clean it again. Remove the needle and clean the hole as best you can. Sea foam works good. Look for vacuum leak before removing carb.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:28 PM   #5
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Arrow needle valves

i worked for a long time in
a small engine shop

needle valves can be turned all the way
IN until they close

then screw them out 1 1/4 turns

that should be a close to 'good" initial setting

then try turning them just a quarter turn
SLOWLY while running one way or the other

make sure your air filter isn't clogged
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:41 PM   #6
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Bob
Start by emptyin gas out of tank.
Most of them in the carb have a tiny little hole that u need to take 1 bristle from a wire brush and clean out real good. This new gas crystalizes in them and u prob have 1 crystal the size of a grain of sand cloggin it. Blast the shat out of it with carb cleaner.
Also with the new gas dont be surprised if u actually need to run it with the carb open one click. My brother says the the kinston fd even has to do this with a lot of their tools. Its just the nature of the beast. Let me know if u need help
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:48 PM   #7
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Bob, seriously look for an older (1970s even) Ariens with cast iron gear box. 24" 7hp minimum, electric start and chains are nice options and can be added.... Mine is a beast. Was repowered before I bought it. Paid 400.00 Worth every cent. You do not want the model with the auger down on the body though... here is a link to one the same as mine, but no electric start nor repowered. Don't be afraid of its appearance. http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/5343678209.html
Thats a pretty darn good price
I have my old machine that is similar on there for $425
But I put a new engine on mine 3 yrs ago, new drive gear, wheel bushings, and a scabbed front end with iron gear box on it last year. Old was brass and worm gear smoked out. They wanted $300 for new gear. I said GFY. Took front with cast iron gearbox off a carcass at the dump. Perfect fit
Justifies increased price. Ended up gettin a bigger ariens used about 10 times for pennies on the dollar from a snowbird so out with the old
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:49 AM   #8
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Thanks guys,I'll pull it off again and I try sticking pins in the ports and soak it in carb cleaner.


The gas that was it the tank I did dump it,I will buy high octane for it today.

Ross I'm to cheap to buy another one.,plus this time of year it would be tuff to get a good deal considering last winters wrath.

Thanks guys.
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:09 PM   #9
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Got it done,I pulled the carb off and soaked it in high octane gas for an hour.
Pulled it out and punched out all of the ports then re assembled it.
Primed it and it fired up after a min or two throttled down on the choke once,twice three times and all good,then pushed down on the gas feed and she purred.

Thanks guys I'm now ready for the white stuff.
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Old 12-06-2015, 05:53 PM   #10
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good Job 5/0
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:48 PM   #11
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Got it done,I pulled the carb off and soaked it in high octane gas for an hour.
Pulled it out and punched out all of the ports then re assembled it.
Primed it and it fired up after a min or two throttled down on the choke once,twice three times and all good,then pushed down on the gas feed and she purred.

Thanks guys I'm now ready for the white stuff.
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Bob I had the same problem on mine, I replaced the carb and the next year it was doing almost the identical thing again. Long story short follow the fuel line from the bottom of the tank, if it goes into or under a cowl, on it's way to the carb, replace it. Mine had a small gash and was s#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g air. Never had any problems after that

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Old 12-27-2015, 07:03 AM   #12
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I ordered the belts for it,when I change them out I will replace that hose along with the primer hose.

I feel that this winter will be mild and not such a nut cruncher.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:52 AM   #13
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Handy bunch

Boy, you guys are a handy bunch on here! Good going 5/0! I let mine run with the gas turned off until the carb is empty end of the year, and keep fuel stabilizer in EVERYTHING for the on season and off season...cheap insurance so far.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:13 AM   #14
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Bob,

Look at installing an inline fuel shut off valve. When you are done using it, you can just shut off the gas and let it run dry. Letting it run dry after each use will stop it from gumming up.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Boy, you guys are a handy bunch on here! Good going 5/0! I let mine run with the gas turned off until the carb is empty end of the year, and keep fuel stabilizer in EVERYTHING for the on season and off season...cheap insurance so far.
this is what is needed... run fuel stabilizer year 'round...leaving them dry is not an option, all the alcohol in the fuel dries out the seals, hoses and gaskets, often creating leaks or stuck needle and seats..

When cleaning carbs, never use q-tips or cloth...they tend to loose fibers and make more problems... a good aerosol carb cleaner will clean any crystalized fuel that is left behind... and ounce of preventionis worth a pound of cure.. run stabilizer.

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:20 PM   #16
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Good call,Vic I'll do that when I change out the hoses.
Stabillizer is key,I normally use it but ran out last season,I already picked some up.
Rock that makes sense to use it year round.

Gas sitting during the winter months/consistent cold weather is ok,it's the heat which causes condensation which bad news.
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Old 12-29-2015, 07:56 PM   #17
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Boy, you guys are a handy bunch on here! Good going 5/0! I let mine run with the gas turned off until the carb is empty end of the year, and keep fuel stabilizer in EVERYTHING for the on season and off season...cheap insurance so far.

These guys yes!
That's why I posted it,I suck when it comes to small engines,I almost took my weed Wacker and twisted it up into a pretzel but I cooled off.
Give me a 250 ton chiller or a 6 million BTU furnace or boiler and I'll fix the f/in POS!

This small engine thing will take me some time....
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Live bait sharp hooks and timing is all you need
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Bob,

Look at installing an inline fuel shut off valve. When you are done using it, you can just shut off the gas and let it run dry. Letting it run dry after each use will stop it from gumming up.
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Absolutely I did that too

Bent Rods and Screaming Reels!

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