Coffered ceilings

[piemma]

Originally Posted by Rmarsh

Good staging makes it much easier. Had to install crown moulding in every room of this 5,000 sq. ft. house......not done on step ladders.

I did 5" crown molding in 2 rooms with cathedral ceilings. Never again. Cutting the joints took lots of trial and error and PATIENCE.

[Nebe]

Originally Posted by piemma

I did 5" crown molding in 2 rooms with cathedral ceilings. Never again. Cutting the joints took lots of trial and error and PATIENCE.

Putty and paint....makes it what it ain’t. 😂
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[Rmarsh]

....makes a carpenter what he ain’t. 😂


Big difference in paint grade jobs versus stained or prefinished.
For the latter you need more skill and patience....using putty in poorly fitting joints looks like crap.

[Nebe]

Originally Posted by Rmarsh

....makes a carpenter what he ain’t. 😂


Big difference in paint grade jobs versus stained or prefinished.
For the latter you need more skill and patience....using putty in poorly fitting joints looks like crap.

I have a ton more welding experience over carpentry experience, so my old saying was always- a grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint! but yes i can see how a stained job would make a big difference.

We just did crown molding around our gallery and i was quite humbled by it. i tried a few different approaches and for me, I found that the best method was to use my makita grinder that i usually use on metal paired with a 40 grit sand paper disc was the best tool for corners... but one end and then cope the other side with the grinder.

I grind and polish glass occasionally... that is a zen art that i could write a book about....

[nightfighter]

A couple thoughts on crown molding, which I have done a lot of;

Check ceiling lines first for level. If level, easy peasy. But if you put your eyes up at ceiling level you will find sighting 4 out of 5 will make you seasick... If delta is less than .5 inch, caulk between top of crown and ceiling.

Be sure you have a tall enough fence on your miter saw and mark or tape the base for the spring angle so your joints will be consistent.

Make up 4 set up pieces and mark them inside left, inside right, outside left, outside right. These will help you to minimize mistakes when setting up your cuts, especially on inside pieces that are to be coped. I still do this every time.

Makes a pencil line on the profile after cutting. It will make coping much easier as you can see the line better. Take your time with coping saw. It is not a race. And it does not matter how nice the backside of the cope looks. I usually have a tablesaw handy to knock down anything I think might help the final fit.

[Nebe]

Originally Posted by nightfighter

A couple thoughts on crown molding, which I have done a lot of;

Check ceiling lines first for level. If level, easy peasy. But if you put your eyes up at ceiling level you will find sighting 4 out of 5 will make you seasick... If delta is less than .5 inch, caulk between top of crown and ceiling.

Be sure you have a tall enough fence on your miter saw and mark or tape the base for the spring angle so your joints will be consistent.

Make up 4 set up pieces and mark them inside left, inside right, outside left, outside right. These will help you to minimize mistakes when setting up your cuts, especially on inside pieces that are to be coped. I still do this every time.

Makes a pencil line on the profile after cutting. It will make coping much easier as you can see the line better. Take your time with coping saw. It is not a race. And it does not matter how nice the backside of the cope looks. I usually have a tablesaw handy to knock down anything I think might help the final fit.

Great tips ! I wish I talked to you last week.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[piemma]

Great tips Ross.