Trailer brakes

[Ian]

Originally Posted by Nebe

Nothing makes me cringe more than dipping moving mechanical parts made out of steel into salt water and expecting them to work again and again.
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Agreed, I guess my only real solution is get an aluminum trailer with SS calipers?

That being said, it’s strange to me that I used it all last season, had no issues, parked it in a field over the winter with the boat on it, used it once this spring to launch the boat, and it seized sitting in the driveway... weird...

I’m looking at the SS parts but I’m worried about mounting that stuff on a galvanized trailer.
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[Rockfish9]

Originally Posted by Ian

Agreed, I guess my only real solution is get an aluminum trailer with SS calipers?

That being said, it’s strange to me that I used it all last season, had no issues, parked it in a field over the winter with the boat on it, used it once this spring to launch the boat, and it seized sitting in the driveway... weird...

I’m looking at the SS parts but I’m worried about mounting that stuff on a galvanized trailer.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

My trailer is a 1977 shoreline galvanized... no issues with the SS parts..although it's a lot more rugged than most trailers I see today..
the install is pretty easy... you will have to change the coupeler to a disc brake compatible one.. if you cant get the drums off and are going to trash everything anyway... you can remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder, unbolt it.. then compress the springs on ( I've grabbed the head of the pin with a pair of dikes) the retaining pins from the back and cut them with linesman's pliars.. with the castle nut removed you should be able to remove the mess and deal with it on your own terms.

[Ian]

Originally Posted by Rockfish9

My trailer is a 1977 shoreline galvanized... no issues with the SS parts..although it's a lot more rugged than most trailers I see today..
the install is pretty easy... you will have to change the coupeler to a disc brake compatible one.. if you cant get the drums off and are going to trash everything anyway... you can remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder, unbolt it.. then compress the springs on ( I've grabbed the head of the pin with a pair of dikes) the retaining pins from the back and cut them with linesman's pliars.. with the castle nut removed you should be able to remove the mess and deal with it on your own terms.

I’m in the process of seeing if I can get the “cheap” stainless kit for the back axle by the weekend. Thanks for pointing me that way
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