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Old 09-05-2000, 08:29 PM   #8
Mike P
Jiggin' Leper Lawyer
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: 61° 30′ 0″ N, 23° 46′ 0″ E
Posts: 8,158
RE:Canal Rod

Hey Tony, what you get when the line hits that spot where it's dug in and everything stops dead in its tracks is definitely a "backlash". No spin doctor can make it anything else <img src="/Images/Happy_Face.gif"><!--e1-->

Some braids have more of a tendency than others to bind like that when you break off. I've come to expect it with Spectron, and am ready to stop the spool--I just give it an easy cast the next time after I bust a stuck jig loose (or off). So far, it hasn't happened yet with the 65# Whiplash I have on my Penn 525 Mag--but, that might be a case of me being able to get better thumb pressure on the spool when pulling back to break off, due to the lack of a top level-wind bar. It's also important to wind braid on under tension. I use a Berkley line spooler to spool up, and after a night of plugging, I'll make some casts with a heavy jig to tighten it down.

All the braids will cut your thumb if used on a non levelwind reel--eventually. The question is when. Spectron is tough stuff, it'll do it inside of 10 casts. It takes a lot longer with the more slick finished stuff like Whiplash and Rip Cord Si. Wet hands, and having your thumb on the line when you set the hook and the drag slips a bit, will hasten cuts.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but as any Canal guy knows, snags are inevitable--when you snag a jig or a sinker when using braid, don't attempt to pull it free with a bend in the rod. Use a lighter leader (I use 30# mono with 50# braid and 40# mono with 65# braid) so that breaks instead of the braid--usualy, it'll break at one of the knots. Point the rod tip at the snag and pull straight back.
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