Tacky Primer

[bassmaster]

dont dunk them long , i have no problem and your sealer is not dry yet

[BigFish]

TDF....linseed oil or "boiled" linseed oil???

[The Dad Fisherman]

Originally Posted by BigFish

TDF....linseed oil or "boiled" linseed oil???

Boiled Linseed Oil

I just thought it was strange that they were all done at once but only 1/2 of them had the problem

[adson]

I had the same problem last week. I sealed with 60/ 40 mix and let sit for a week and then primed with Kilz. that was a week ago and the primer hasn't dried. I stuck it in the sun for a couple of hours and that didnt help.

I've never had a problem before so maybe the humidity is keeping the sealer from drying. I wouldnt blame it on your primer yet.

[NIB]

I have the same problem with things dryin.I live by the water an the humidity is pretty high all the time U gotta let em dry.Heat does not evaporate oils low humity does I bought a small D-humdity thig for the garage(all my tools where rusting)works well.I use the zinnser (oil) primer.soaks in good an sands nice.

[NIB]

On another note I'm so tired of sealin an waiting, an friggin epoxy finishes. I'm just gonna go back to prime ,paint an some kinda clear outa the can an trashem when the start to soak up too much water.

[basswipe]

I'm curious.I've painted every wood known to man for more years than I care to count and am wondering why would you seal the wood with boiled linseed oil?Whether used straight or cut with pure gum tupentine its cure(not dry) time takes forever.Plus primer/paint just doesn't last as long as it could when put over it.For that matter pigmented coatings really aren't meant to be put over it anyway.

Why not just eliminate that step and seal with a quick dry oil base primer like Zinnser CoverStain cut thinly with High Flash naptha.Regular VM&P naptha can be used but with the HF naptha it dries in 5mins and can be sanded 10-15 mins after that.After that use the same primer cut just enough with HF naptha to make it sprayable sand again and proceed as you normally would.Any paint can be applied over CoverStain and it can be tinted.

Massive time saver eliminating the linseed oil and going straight to the primer
cut with HF naptha.

[Young Salt]

CS,

What problems did you have with the rustoleum primer? I've used it and dont have any complaints sooo far.

[capesams]

wil-bond is a clear etching/bonding liquid...clean's everything and anything before you paint. if you want to clean metal/wood/plastic/ old paint/etc.etc. before you prime or paint/repaint your item....degreases..deoils...and also has bonding agents in it to help the paint bond better.

If I prime before the sealer is dry like you did, I can use this to wipe the primer off...or if I mess up a paint job on a plug, I can wipe off the paint wet or dry paint without sanding again...I get it from my local lumber yard or town paint and supply.

I also used it to take off the old bottom paint on the boat..no sanding.

I beleive painter's touch is rust-o-leum's low end paint . even the reg. primer doesn't sit well with me...doesn't soak in the wood like house primer's do.....I find the plain flat white rusto works better as a primer.1st. coat get's sanded off for the most part,it's just used as a pore filler...the second coat evens the surface off.....the third lite coat make's it frog a$$ smooth.

I use nothing but reg. rustoleum paints..flat if I can get it in the right color otherwise gloss if forced to because of color choices.

try turpintine in your 60/40 mix instead of mineral spirits.
turp's is a natural thinner made from tree sap...good stuff.
mineral spirits is man made junk..gooy ca- ca, when it dries up in the bottom of a can, it leave's this yellow muck that look like uncooked pancake mix.