Tacky Primer

[BigFish]

TDF....linseed oil or "boiled" linseed oil???

[The Dad Fisherman]

Originally Posted by BigFish

TDF....linseed oil or "boiled" linseed oil???

Boiled Linseed Oil

I just thought it was strange that they were all done at once but only 1/2 of them had the problem

[adson]

I had the same problem last week. I sealed with 60/ 40 mix and let sit for a week and then primed with Kilz. that was a week ago and the primer hasn't dried. I stuck it in the sun for a couple of hours and that didnt help.

I've never had a problem before so maybe the humidity is keeping the sealer from drying. I wouldnt blame it on your primer yet.

[NIB]

I have the same problem with things dryin.I live by the water an the humidity is pretty high all the time U gotta let em dry.Heat does not evaporate oils low humity does I bought a small D-humdity thig for the garage(all my tools where rusting)works well.I use the zinnser (oil) primer.soaks in good an sands nice.

[NIB]

On another note I'm so tired of sealin an waiting, an friggin epoxy finishes. I'm just gonna go back to prime ,paint an some kinda clear outa the can an trashem when the start to soak up too much water.

[basswipe]

I'm curious.I've painted every wood known to man for more years than I care to count and am wondering why would you seal the wood with boiled linseed oil?Whether used straight or cut with pure gum tupentine its cure(not dry) time takes forever.Plus primer/paint just doesn't last as long as it could when put over it.For that matter pigmented coatings really aren't meant to be put over it anyway.

Why not just eliminate that step and seal with a quick dry oil base primer like Zinnser CoverStain cut thinly with High Flash naptha.Regular VM&P naptha can be used but with the HF naptha it dries in 5mins and can be sanded 10-15 mins after that.After that use the same primer cut just enough with HF naptha to make it sprayable sand again and proceed as you normally would.Any paint can be applied over CoverStain and it can be tinted.

Massive time saver eliminating the linseed oil and going straight to the primer
cut with HF naptha.

[markm]

I'm relatively new to plug building and enjoy this particular forum very much. I have started to seal my plugs using Zinsser SealCoat, which is a de-waxed shellac sanding sealer. "De-waxed" is the key here. Contrary to what you may have heard, Shellac is actually one of the most robust and best sealers for wood. Most regular shellac does have some naturally occuring wax content, which can be a problem when putting on top coats of paint or clear. The beauty of this sealar is that it dries in about fifteen minutes. I usually dip three successive coats. Another nice property of shellac, in general, is that each new coat completey bonds to the previous coats because the solvent alcohol partially dissolves the previous coat. Also there is no spontaneous combustion risk. You can apply SealCoat under or over any clear coat. In furniture finishing de-waxed shellac is often used before applying a top coat of varnish or urathane.