Tacky Primer

[justplugit]

MarkM thanks. Being the seal coat is a zinsser product, have you tried their bin spray as a primer? Has no wax in it either.

[The Dad Fisherman]

I've seen a few guys mention the Val-oil as a sealer....what's the ups and downs of this product? I was checking it out at HD last night while I was looking for the Wil-Bond stuff.

[markm]

Originally Posted by justplugit

MarkM thanks. Being the seal coat is a zinsser product, have you tried their bin spray as a primer? Has no wax in it either.

I haven't tried it yet. It's a pigmented shellac, so it should work as well, if not better. Shellac is interesting stuff, here is a link with some good information:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/shellac.htm

[FormerUser]

Personallly I wouldn't use any shellac product for exterior use.You wouldn't,or
shouldn't for that matter,use it on the trim of your house to seal it before you paint it why would use it on your plugs?

The only guarantee you get with dewaxed shellac is that clear coats will bond with it.

[Krispy]

Have you tried reversing the 60/40 ratio? Its not written in stone, you know
Some BLO is better than none..

[justplugit]

BW, the only reasons i see it as a primer are ,that it will stick to most any surface including some of the glossy spots left by the sealer that paint might not stick to, and it gives a nice smooth finish over the grain to allow a nice paint application.

Just my 2 cents, the search goes on.

[capesams]

I've written this before....anything will stick to an oil base product,,,you can put laytex over oil,,,but you can't put oil on top of laytex,,,you can ,but it'll just peel off cause of the lack of bondage.

wil-bond will degloss just about any shiny surface and prep it for the next coat.

oil/urethane based sealers dry and can be sanded....linseed oil never truly dries..so if one tries to sand it ,,it just become's gooie, same with any laytex based product.

your liquid's from start to finish on anything MUST meld[bond] together with each other if it's to last at all....like auto paint has agents in it so the clearcoat will bond to it....you can put whatever clearcoat on you want,,but if it doesn't melt into the layer below it, all you've done is just put a skin gun on it....it's like nothing more than slipping a sock over your foot,only to slide off later.

[markm]

Originally Posted by capesams

I've written this before....anything will stick to an oil base product,,,you can put laytex over oil,,,but you can't put oil on top of laytex,,,you can ,but it'll just peel off cause of the lack of bondage.

wil-bond will degloss just about any shiny surface and prep it for the next coat.

oil/urethane based sealers dry and can be sanded....linseed oil never truly dries..so if one tries to sand it ,,it just become's gooie, same with any laytex based product.

your liquid's from start to finish on anything MUST meld[bond] together with each other if it's to last at all....like auto paint has agents in it so the clearcoat will bond to it....you can put whatever clearcoat on you want,,but if it doesn't melt into the layer below it, all you've done is just put a skin gun on it....it's like nothing more than slipping a sock over your foot,only to slide off later.

I agree with all that Capesams has said above. Perhaps the best thing is to use the linseed oil mixture first, followed by a shellac coat to seal and bond. This is what furniture makers do when they stain, or use oil, on bare wood, and then want to have a hard protective top coat such as lacquer or urathane. The top coats readily bond to the shellac coat. I don't really think of an oil coat as true sealer. A true sealer has to have some kind of resin content, either natural or synthetic, which "plasticizes" when it cures. As Capesams said linseed oil never fully cures. I would think that thinned spar varnish might be a good sealer. Shellac is a natural resin.