Tacky Primer

[justplugit]

BW, the only reasons i see it as a primer are ,that it will stick to most any surface including some of the glossy spots left by the sealer that paint might not stick to, and it gives a nice smooth finish over the grain to allow a nice paint application.

Just my 2 cents, the search goes on.

[capesams]

I've written this before....anything will stick to an oil base product,,,you can put laytex over oil,,,but you can't put oil on top of laytex,,,you can ,but it'll just peel off cause of the lack of bondage.

wil-bond will degloss just about any shiny surface and prep it for the next coat.

oil/urethane based sealers dry and can be sanded....linseed oil never truly dries..so if one tries to sand it ,,it just become's gooie, same with any laytex based product.

your liquid's from start to finish on anything MUST meld[bond] together with each other if it's to last at all....like auto paint has agents in it so the clearcoat will bond to it....you can put whatever clearcoat on you want,,but if it doesn't melt into the layer below it, all you've done is just put a skin gun on it....it's like nothing more than slipping a sock over your foot,only to slide off later.

[markm]

Originally Posted by capesams

I've written this before....anything will stick to an oil base product,,,you can put laytex over oil,,,but you can't put oil on top of laytex,,,you can ,but it'll just peel off cause of the lack of bondage.

wil-bond will degloss just about any shiny surface and prep it for the next coat.

oil/urethane based sealers dry and can be sanded....linseed oil never truly dries..so if one tries to sand it ,,it just become's gooie, same with any laytex based product.

your liquid's from start to finish on anything MUST meld[bond] together with each other if it's to last at all....like auto paint has agents in it so the clearcoat will bond to it....you can put whatever clearcoat on you want,,but if it doesn't melt into the layer below it, all you've done is just put a skin gun on it....it's like nothing more than slipping a sock over your foot,only to slide off later.

I agree with all that Capesams has said above. Perhaps the best thing is to use the linseed oil mixture first, followed by a shellac coat to seal and bond. This is what furniture makers do when they stain, or use oil, on bare wood, and then want to have a hard protective top coat such as lacquer or urathane. The top coats readily bond to the shellac coat. I don't really think of an oil coat as true sealer. A true sealer has to have some kind of resin content, either natural or synthetic, which "plasticizes" when it cures. As Capesams said linseed oil never fully cures. I would think that thinned spar varnish might be a good sealer. Shellac is a natural resin.

[ProfessorM]

You know the more these discussions come up the more confused I get. I do enjoy them but man I get a headache everytime read them. Every time I get to the point where I say OK this is what I will do someone else goes and makes me think about some other way. This is probably why I got 100 plugs turned sitting down cellar with out any type of sealer or finish on them. Suck's being someone who can't make a decision. Guess I should read my little saying below and just do something You know either sh%t or get off the pot. Paul

[Karl F]

Paul,
I would be willing to bet, that no two builders on this sight, do everything ion the process, the exact same way. A lot is trial and error, I make plenty of errors, but hopefully learn something from them. I just hope, I am not repeating the same mistake over and over, I'm part Swede, so that is a possibility ... But.. yer right, I've been there too, a lot of it is "fear factor" so ya gott chit or get off the pot... I would be willing to bet again, that you will do some amazing finishes, I can sense that from what I've seen of your aluminum work.
Dive on in, and you will do some great stuff, I am sure!

[justplugit]

Originally Posted by Professor Moriarty

You know the more these discussions come up the more confused I get. I do enjoy them but man I get a headache everytime read them. Every time I get to the point where I say OK this is what I will do someone else goes and makes me think about some other way. This is probably why I got 100 plugs turned sitting down cellar with out any type of sealer or finish on them. Suck's being someone who can't make a decision. Guess I should read my little saying below and just do something You know either sh%t or get off the pot. Paul

Paul I tell ya i'm the same way. Like Karl says, everyone has their own way and i listen to everybody, read all the labels, call the maufactuers, and still hope i'm doin it the right way. Ya got your oil guys, your waterbased guys,urethane guys,oil/urethane guys, polyurethane guys,non seal cedar guys and who knows what else.

Than ya got your oil paint guys,acrylic paint guys, e tex guys, 5min epoxy guys, 30 min epoxy guys, mirror coat guys, auto clear guys, urethane guys,and who knows what else.

All i know is i hang all the plugs guys give me as they mean too much to me to get hammered so i don't know who's hold up the best.

I don't care about my own when i fish them, i just don't want the ones i give away to have the finish slide off like an old boot, like CS says, and have a guy hooked up to piece of wood with the finish hangin off the tail hook like an old sock.

[capesams]

don't forget lacquer paint's and clear.

epoxy paint's'no primer needed



those paint's you need to spec. order from oversea;s

sealer's that r outlawed now, but you can still get in seprate component's and mix yourself. shhhh!

[justplugit]

Originally Posted by capesams

sealer's that r outlawed now, but you can still get in seprate component's and mix yourself. shhhh!

CS took a pic of the outlaw mix guy for his avatar.