Waterlox - Tung oil questions

[Raven]

you didnt mention TUNG OIL

i used to do gun stocks with it....

and was always impressed with the finnish....

[capesams]

I beleive most concockion's these day's have some form of tung oil's in them/blend's of one thing or another,,,straight oils take forever to dry...urethane's contain hardner's and drier's to speed up the dring time
I was talking to someone the other day about a guy who turns bowl"s for a living,,some go for $5,000.00 and better..his sealer and finish all in one is the linseed/urethane mix.....I guess the urethane helps dry up the linseed and give's the finish abit of hardness so it doesn't stay gooie from the straight oil.

never tried straight tung oil..we alway's used linseed on gun stock's,,wiping off as not to get to much of a build up...but in time on a hot day the oil would get sticky. then would have to use fine steel wool to strip it off...a reel pain after awhile.

[KenM]

Capesams are you using those concoctions as both sealers and finishes or just sealers ?

Anyone out there using the Waterlox?

Ken

[capesams]

yes+ yes and wish I could get my hands on some two part laquer as well.

[Slipknot]

2 part laquer? you mean pre-catalyzed where they add the catalyst for you in the store? or some kind of conversion varnish? The pre catalyzed laquer has a 6 month shelf life.

[Justfishin']

Ken, I use the Waterlox a lot,it's a tung oil blend that's a fairly fast-build oil finish for cabinets and furniture. I have been using it as a sealer for my plugs('cause I have it) under enamel paints. I thin it 50% with VM&P naptha and put them in a closed container (a ziplock baggie will work) to soak 3-4 hrs, wipe them off to dry for a day or so. Sand lightly before paint. The naptha helps it penetrate and 'flashes' off quickly.However naptha is extremely flammable and has to be used outside. A safer alternative is Specs. paint thinner, it'll just take longer to dry. Again, be very careful with any type of petroleum solvent/mineral spirits, they're very flammable!. Also, you have to keep the Waterlox container tightly closed or it'll turn to jelly. Or- an inexpensive interior/exterior polyurethane thinned with specs. as above will work well as a sealer too and is cheaper with a longer shelf life. I've been using Flex Coat rod finish as a finish,again 'cause I have some.Not the toughest around rocks, but o.k..
Capesams- Try Hood Finishing- www.hoodfinishing.com .

[beachwalker]

I finish floors for a living and Waterlox is the best we use.

The original sealer and the Marfine sealer are EXACTLY the same thing. They are able to beat the VOC rules by marketing the sealer as a "marine" sealer(450ppm) and can sell it in a gallon in states where the allowable voc ppm is on 350ppm. this is because it is considered to be used outdoors. that is why you see quarts on the shelves
They both are important to use as a first coat but built up to 4-5 coats and the sealer produces a semi gloss finish.

The satin has a flattening agent in it in order to acheive the satin finish.

The gloss has some POWERFUL stuff (xylene, etc.) and does a high gloss.

The basic rule is:

2 coats sealer then 2 coats (satin/gloss) for softwoods
1 coat sealer then 3 coats finish for hardwoods

The thing I like most about it is that you can shake the cans to mix. The bubbles will go away. It takes about 4 hours to begin to set up. In normal temps of 65-70 degrees it will be dry and recoatable in 8 hours. sand between coats with 220 grit

hope this helps....