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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug? |
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12-02-2005, 04:34 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Here and There Seasonally
Posts: 5,985
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I was thinking that DuPont 222s or 480s might make a decent wood sealer. The 222s is an automotive midcoat (Real thin clear lacquer) designed to make paint stick. 480s is a jambing clear. again lacquer. If you're painting at the shop should be no problem.
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He that would make his own liberty secure, must guard even his enemy from oppression; for if he violates this duty, he establishes a precedent that will reach to himself.
Thomas Paine
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12-02-2005, 04:59 PM
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#2
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viva the plug-o-lution
Join Date: May 2002
Location: notsob
Posts: 3,476
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i dont like the minwax stuff. use something else.
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live to fish. fish to live. rod tips high.
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12-02-2005, 05:32 PM
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#3
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Registered Grandpa
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: east coast
Posts: 8,592
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Mike, i use the bin shellac based spray primer 24 hrs after i seal, by dipping in a urethane based sealer. i like it as it adheres really well to the hard urethane sealer. Then, use acrylics about 1/2 hr after the bin following your "don't wait too long" painting adherence advice. 
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" Choose Life "
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12-02-2005, 05:44 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: RI
Posts: 5,705
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DON'T USE BIN.
Its a pigmented shellac.Its a sealer just not a penetrating one.Even dewaxed shellac like Zinnser's Seal Coat doesn't penetrate all that well.Any shellac based primer/sealer has absolutely no value when it comes to painting plugs.None.
Shellac based products have no use in exterior applications.
Wanna seal wood?If your looking to be able to sand within the hour use Zinnser CoverStain(tint to base color)cut 25% with Hi-Flash naptha.If you're really looking for awesome penetration as you might want with tight grain wood cut it with Penetrol.Unlike linseed oil you'll be able to sand it within your lifetime,a few hours in ideal conditions works.
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12-02-2005, 07:08 PM
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#5
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"Fishbucket"
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bahston Hahbah
Posts: 6,588
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ah-ah!!  might help if i read the whole lable  says right down the bottom "not for wet surfaces, or water immersion".
thanks for the help guys !
time to start making plugs that will last in the brine, and not just look pretty
i like the 1 hour idea !!
i'm very impatient
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12-02-2005, 09:49 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 52
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Tung oil
After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime. 
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" It ain't over till it's over " !!!
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12-02-2005, 10:32 PM
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#7
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"Fishbucket"
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bahston Hahbah
Posts: 6,588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaukmaniac
After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime. 
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thank you!
i can't wait four days from sealer to primer .
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12-03-2005, 05:59 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Norwell, MA
Posts: 180
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Virtually anything that penetrates and doesn't kill you and the family (like minwax penetrating sealer) takes days to dry before a water based primer and/or paint can be applied. Even using an oil based primer over a penetrating sealer requires quite a bit of drying time before it can be applied. Have patience or don't seal. Because of the smell, and the resulting complaints from my family, I stopped sealing/painting with materials that generate organic vapors and have been sticking with water based paints. Sealing may help a plug last longer but most of the revered wooden plug makers of the past, like Gibbs, didn't use penetrating sealers on their plugs. A trick I use in lieu of sealing is to finish the plug, and before I through wire and hang hardware, pour/squirt linseed oil through all the openings in the plug. This will seal most of the problem areas, and allows you to finish and fish the plug right away. The areas that it doesn't protect are the holes made from the pentration of fishes teeth or chips from bouncing off rocks. those will have to be touched up before the water penetrates and damages the surrounding paint. Remember, many of us are using water based paints that are not water proof. They just look great! When I used rattle cans I had few of these problems. The oil based paint had better penetration and was much more water resistant. Rattlecan primer actually does get a little pentration, and helps seal water away from the water based paints. Createx and other water based paints can be applied after allowing the rattle can primer to dry overnight.
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fishing bum wannabe
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