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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 12-02-2005, 04:34 PM   #1
Backbeach Jake
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Question

I was thinking that DuPont 222s or 480s might make a decent wood sealer. The 222s is an automotive midcoat (Real thin clear lacquer) designed to make paint stick. 480s is a jambing clear. again lacquer. If you're painting at the shop should be no problem.

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Old 12-02-2005, 04:59 PM   #2
Christian
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i dont like the minwax stuff. use something else.

live to fish. fish to live. rod tips high.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:32 PM   #3
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Mike, i use the bin shellac based spray primer 24 hrs after i seal, by dipping in a urethane based sealer. i like it as it adheres really well to the hard urethane sealer. Then, use acrylics about 1/2 hr after the bin following your "don't wait too long" painting adherence advice.

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Old 12-02-2005, 05:44 PM   #4
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DON'T USE BIN.

Its a pigmented shellac.Its a sealer just not a penetrating one.Even dewaxed shellac like Zinnser's Seal Coat doesn't penetrate all that well.Any shellac based primer/sealer has absolutely no value when it comes to painting plugs.None.
Shellac based products have no use in exterior applications.

Wanna seal wood?If your looking to be able to sand within the hour use Zinnser CoverStain(tint to base color)cut 25% with Hi-Flash naptha.If you're really looking for awesome penetration as you might want with tight grain wood cut it with Penetrol.Unlike linseed oil you'll be able to sand it within your lifetime,a few hours in ideal conditions works.
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Old 12-02-2005, 07:08 PM   #5
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ah-ah!! might help if i read the whole lable says right down the bottom "not for wet surfaces, or water immersion".
thanks for the help guys !
time to start making plugs that will last in the brine, and not just look pretty

i like the 1 hour idea !!
i'm very impatient

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Old 12-02-2005, 09:49 PM   #6
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Tung oil

After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.

" It ain't over till it's over " !!!
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaukmaniac
After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.

thank you!
i can't wait four days from sealer to primer .

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Old 12-03-2005, 05:59 PM   #8
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Virtually anything that penetrates and doesn't kill you and the family (like minwax penetrating sealer) takes days to dry before a water based primer and/or paint can be applied. Even using an oil based primer over a penetrating sealer requires quite a bit of drying time before it can be applied. Have patience or don't seal. Because of the smell, and the resulting complaints from my family, I stopped sealing/painting with materials that generate organic vapors and have been sticking with water based paints. Sealing may help a plug last longer but most of the revered wooden plug makers of the past, like Gibbs, didn't use penetrating sealers on their plugs. A trick I use in lieu of sealing is to finish the plug, and before I through wire and hang hardware, pour/squirt linseed oil through all the openings in the plug. This will seal most of the problem areas, and allows you to finish and fish the plug right away. The areas that it doesn't protect are the holes made from the pentration of fishes teeth or chips from bouncing off rocks. those will have to be touched up before the water penetrates and damages the surrounding paint. Remember, many of us are using water based paints that are not water proof. They just look great! When I used rattle cans I had few of these problems. The oil based paint had better penetration and was much more water resistant. Rattlecan primer actually does get a little pentration, and helps seal water away from the water based paints. Createx and other water based paints can be applied after allowing the rattle can primer to dry overnight.

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