ah-ah!! might help if i read the whole lable says right down the bottom "not for wet surfaces, or water immersion".
thanks for the help guys !
time to start making plugs that will last in the brine, and not just look pretty
After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.
After trying many things and doing research, my sealer of choice is TUNG OIL. It is said to be the best penetrating oil for all types of grains of wood and dries faster than boiled linseed oil ! I never had problems with it. Use it straight out of the can by dunking and soaking for a minute. Then let it hang for 5 or 10 minutes to penetrate the wood. Wipe off the excess and let dry over night. Lightly buff with fine steel wool then prime.
thank you!
i can't wait four days from sealer to primer .
Virtually anything that penetrates and doesn't kill you and the family (like minwax penetrating sealer) takes days to dry before a water based primer and/or paint can be applied. Even using an oil based primer over a penetrating sealer requires quite a bit of drying time before it can be applied. Have patience or don't seal. Because of the smell, and the resulting complaints from my family, I stopped sealing/painting with materials that generate organic vapors and have been sticking with water based paints. Sealing may help a plug last longer but most of the revered wooden plug makers of the past, like Gibbs, didn't use penetrating sealers on their plugs. A trick I use in lieu of sealing is to finish the plug, and before I through wire and hang hardware, pour/squirt linseed oil through all the openings in the plug. This will seal most of the problem areas, and allows you to finish and fish the plug right away. The areas that it doesn't protect are the holes made from the pentration of fishes teeth or chips from bouncing off rocks. those will have to be touched up before the water penetrates and damages the surrounding paint. Remember, many of us are using water based paints that are not water proof. They just look great! When I used rattle cans I had few of these problems. The oil based paint had better penetration and was much more water resistant. Rattlecan primer actually does get a little pentration, and helps seal water away from the water based paints. Createx and other water based paints can be applied after allowing the rattle can primer to dry overnight.
Excellent point about water base paints ! As such, for better protection and durability I have been using rattle cans again lately as my primary color then shoot with airbrush for hi-lighting. I didn't think Gibb's sealed their plugs. They always seemed to peel and flake over time.
might help if i read the whole lable 
says right down the bottom "not for wet surfaces, or water immersion".
Hybrid Mode
