New Handcarves

[jklett]

I tried some more handcarved and tried different weighting on the type that I posted last time. I also tried some "gliders" and I have no idea if they will work. I also tried my own shape(bunker painted) to see how it goes. I still have to clear them and glue in the lips before I can test them but they should do something in the water. Hopefully I can get to them soon, but with Christmas and all, who knows? I'm liking this carving thing a lot! Now if I only had a decent airbrush...

[Canalman]

NICE... I like the Bounty Display sheets

[redneck24]

nice!

[Tagger]

So Nice... did you make all the lips... why all the holes in them ,, does it help them stick better ?

[FlukinUki]

Very nice, I really like the bunker one on the bottom, eal nice shape to that one

[jklett]

Tagger, the lips are 1/8" polycarbonate. I traced a pattern and cut them with the bandsaw, then sanded the edges and drilled some holes. I'm hoping the holes help the epoxy grab better, you can peel it right off this stuff with your fingernails ! When I get the weighting right I will try and figure out a better(stronger) attachment method, but I'll burn that bridge when I come to it.

[Tagger]

i honestly don't know ... I thought the holes was a good idea ..... while we are on the subject I bought some 1/8" Lucite ... is lucite a polycarbonate ?,,, says weather resistant .. thats why I bought it

[FlukinUki]

jklett, I haven't done it myself but if the epoxy doesn't like to stick to your lip material you may want to consider placing the lip in the plug and drilling 2 small holes from the bottom of the plug through the lip twards the nose. Place some short pieces of through wire in the holes, pinning the lip in place. Just a thought.

[Striperknight]

All you need to do is scuff up the plastic with some sandpaper.
This will allow the epoxy to grip.

[jklett]

Tagger, I wasn't trying to be a wiseguy and if it came off that way I apologise. Sometimes my thoughts don't translate too well when I type them out and my intentions get lost somewhere. Anyhow, I think lucite is an acrylic but I'm not too sure. If you want to know if it'll work for lips, cut a piece off, take it outside, and hit it with a hammer(please wear safety goggles). If it doesn't shatter, it will probably be fine for lips. I tried it with the stuff I have and the hammer marks it up but doesn't break it. Even the peice I left in the snow overnight survived the beatings. If your lucite doesn't work out, let me know and I'll send you some of the polycarbonate I have.

FlukinUki, I like the idea about the wires. I will give that a shot.

Striperknight, I can't seem to sand the lips without scratching up where the plug doesn't cover. I tried and I couldn't seem to get it right(that's why I tried the holes). If there's a trick to it I'd love to know.

I like this kind of dialog, it helps me(and other beginners like me) learn what makes these things tick. I am new at plug building and have really learned alot from all of you. I am really having fun!

[Tagger]

thanks.. no foul.. Sometimes I come off like a wise guy but its not me, its my inner child acting up .. Pretty cool starting with handcarves. I had a lathe before starting plug building so I never expierienced handcarves.. going to try some day ,, very interresting stuff..

[Striperknight]

Glue a small 1/4x1/4 square of sandpaper to the tip of a pencil easer.

[striprman]

Those look really nice.

[Christian]

you do a real nice job. i bet those swim really nice. the lip thing is a good idea.

[tynan19]

Wow those look really sweet.

[f_b_]

Hi
Nice looking plugs, with your gliders I suggest a couple different weighting schemes. About an inch (or so) from nose and an inch (or so) from tail. If you want less of a glide go more than an inch. If you want the plug to do 180s go with less than an inch. Add more lead to the middle of the bait for more weight, this gives a little wider glide and more depth. And drill 2 holes in your lexan lip with scuffing the edge. When the epoxy cures the holes will act like a couple of screws and as you know the scuffing will give the epoxy something to grab. Check the pic for examples.
Hope this helps - fb

[numbskull]

Interesting input f_b_, thanks. This whole slider thing is something I've been fooling with this winter, without realizing you muskie guys have already worked it out. If you don't mind, it would help if you could tell me whether you set up your sliders to float nose up (and, if so, how much), or try to keep them floating near level. Thanks again.

[gary2]

I have pinned my lips with SS wire with very good results.I pin most of the lips wether it is SS or plastic.Probaly one wire would work but why go thru making a nice handcarve and do the lip half a--
gary2
Nice plugs

[FlukinUki]

Glue a small 1/4x1/4 square of sandpaper to the tip of a pencil easer.

For small sanding "sticks" you can also spray the back of a piece of sandpaper with adheasive and lay out popsicle sticks, wood coffee stirrers, etc. When the glue dries just cut off a stick and sand, if your anal you can even write the grit on the stick.

Great info, Im gonna have to try some gliders now.

[Montaukmaniac]

Damn ! I don't know what I like better ? The shapes or paint jobs ? Beutiful shtuff ! How much do those little guys weigh ?

[Jigman]

Originally Posted by numbskull

... it would help if you could tell me whether you set up your sliders to float nose up (and, if so, how much), or try to keep them floating near level. Thanks again.

Set them up as either slow sinkers or barely floaters. Either way, have them sit level in the water. If the nose is up a hair, they'll still work, but not glide as well. Nose down and they'll dig in and not glide. The weighing of these plugs is the key. It is definitely worth taking the time to weigh each one before painting to insure that it will work right. Been messing with them too. In the last few weeks, I've probably done 30 as tests: different woods, thickness, profiles, weight locations, etc. Also was lucky in that a friend of mine makes them so I had someone to bounce ideas off too. Different woods and different profiles, and different thickness means different locations/amount of lead. My 2 cents.

Jigman

[steelhead]

I feel a pattern happening here. I've got about 6 carved and turned glider/slider style plugs turned and drying in the basement. This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'll put up a few pics in a day or so. Those big muskie plugs are a whole nuther world!

[f_b_]

Hello
Jigman is right, generally you want your glider to sit horizontally and slowly sink. There are coundown gliders (sinkers) and floaters and are used for different situations. But most gliders sit horizontally and slowly sink. If you find you glider sits unlevel or sinks too fast take a drill with a small drill bit and drill out lead until you get the glider to do what its suppose to do. You also can experiment with your glider by placing the lead higher to the center of the lure (drill deeper holes, but not too deep). This gives your glider nice belly rolls. I dont know if you will like this, but musky fisherman really like the belly rolls. In the musky world, cedar is a popular wood with lure builders when making gliders. I believe all the lead going into the cedar gives the glider a more "livelier" action. Maple is another good wood, less lead but good action. One last bit... take your last spook (topwater) you turned on your lathe and weight to sit level and sink slowly. You now have a glider and this profile will give your glider a very nice wide glide. See if this is something you like or not.
Hope this helps and have fun tinkering - fb